Troubleshooting Battery Drain (1 Viewer)

[Ripper]

Checked FAQs and didn't see anything...

'85 4Runner, 1 yr old Optima Battery *RED*, Electrical Extras: Horn (stock had no voltage), Starter Relay, Unused Alarm from PO. All are old mods.

When running I get my 14v, after shutting down I get 12v, by morning I'm about 10v.

Optima has a 3yr replacement but at a year old I wouldn't think that is the problem.

How do I determine where a drain is occurring?




*UPDATE NEXTDAY* Tuesday 27 Nov 07

I left battery on trickle charge overnight to ensure I made it to work on time this morning. 7am, the truck started fine, 11am the dreaded click, click, click... in my anger I grasped the key harder and tried again, this time I noticed the key's vertical, up and down play. When the key is straight or tilted upward, I get click, click, click; If the key is tilted downward the clicking stops and the motor will barely, barely turn over and start on the 3rd or 4th revolution. 4pm the same scenario. Could the ignition switch be causing a drain??

I had the starting problem last year; ignition switch randomly supplied 6v to 12v to the starter, that is why the RELAY was installed and solenoid contacts replaced.

 

[80yota]

If the voltmeter you used to measure the voltage also has a ammeter, you could check to see if anything is drawing any power with the engine off. If I recall correctly, you have to put the ammeter in series (disconnect the battery cable and touch a probe to the cable and one to the post). If you did that, you would know without a doubt if it was your battery or a short.

 

[underthehood]

An ampmeter or a test light will help. Try pulling one fuse at a time to isolate the circuit once the ampmeter or testlight is in place. Sometimes the diodes in the alternator can burn and cause the battery to drain after it sits. Disconnect the main wire(biggest) from the alternator and see if it makes a difference in the amp draw. A wiring diagram is a must. Good luck....

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Also, I've heard that Optima's don't like normal DD duty, they like to be discharged (IE winch use...) and charged back up... and repeat...

Get a test light and hook it up as described above, in line (bat post to bat cable) and see if it lights up, then pull fuses till it goes out....

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I put a brand new Optima yellow top in my 85 4Runner in August and had to replace it 1 week later. I decided to go for a Red Top and haven't had any trouble since (nothing against the yellow top but I decided in the end that I would rather have higher cranking amps).

Something was obviously wrong with the yellow top as it wouldn't hold a charge and would only crank the engine if it was warm. At first I thought it was the new DOA racing engine causing a problem with the battery as it has 180 psi on all cylinders and was brand new but they tested the battery and it failed.

Before you try a bunch of other things, drive over to where you purchased the battery and get them to test it.

 

[Ripper]

*NEXTDAY UPDATED SYMPTOMS*

I left battery on trickle charge overnight to ensure I made it to work on time this morning. 7am, the truck started fine, 11am the dreaded click, click, click... in my anger I grasped the key harder and tried again, this time I noticed the key's vertical, up and down play. When the key is straight or tilted upward, I get click, click, click; If the key is tilted downward the clicking stops and the motor will barely, barely turn over and start on the 3rd or 4th revolution. 4pm the same scenario. Could the ignition switch be causing a drain??

I had the starting problem last year; ignition switch randomly supplied 6v to 12v to the starter, that is why the RELAY was installed and solenoid contacts replaced.


Wont have time to check it until this weekend, just getting my ducks in a row.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

So you have an after market relay installed? Well..... Hehe

I guess the ignition switch could be the drain... but dont' think that just cause the key is loose... Mine comes out at all positions... It's kind of handy that way...

If you have a way to jump start in the morning, maybe try disconnecting the bat overnight to see if it's a draw or if the bat is just discharging on it's own....

 

[ToyotaNick]

wow i have just recently had the same exact problem with my yellow top... actually it took until i changed my starter to get problems. but i really got problems when it got cold and it just wouldnt turn over in the morning on my way to school. lol so i unfortunatelly had to jump a toyota with a ford. lol very shamefull hahah but you have to do what you have to do. i ended up putting one of my dads high amp audio batteries, and it seams to be working.

 

[fjwagon]

Try disconnecting the battery terminal while you leave the vehicle off. This won't fix your problem but least you can turn it back on when you do need to.

 

[tehcruiser]

Pretty much what everybody else said.

 

[fourwd1]

An ampmeter or a test light will help. Try pulling one fuse at a time to isolate the circuit once the ampmeter or testlight is in place. Sometimes the diodes in the alternator can burn and cause the battery to drain after it sits. Disconnect the main wire(biggest) from the alternator and see if it makes a difference in the amp draw. A wiring diagram is a must. Good luck....

Bingo.
This is the correct way to troubleshoot this type of problem.

And X2 on the alt diode(s), had the same symptoms before and it ended up being one of the diodes in the diode-trio being shorted.

It was drawing about 1 amp with everything off and all the fuses pulled. Definetly enough to drain the batt overnite, esp since it wasn't charging properly when running.

 

[RHON]

Yes, play with the fuses one by one, someone here sudjested this to me as well several months back ( forgive me as I can't remember exactly who you are as my brain is cluttered rite now), because I have the overnite problem also, i did find that disconnecting the plug between the regulator and alternator would stop the drainage, hav'nt had time to look into it further but the problem is at least isolated.

 

[Ripper]

Thanks for the helpful suggestions!

I did a little basic troubleshooting, before pulling fuses. The problem for now seems to have been the Optima Battery. It was disconnected and dropped 2VDC overnight. I don't understand that, but after replacing the Red Top (18mos) that problem seems to be fixed; three days and NO starting problems.

I found a new problem while I was crawling around.... Starting New Post.

 

[Hilux]

Ok, I need some help... BIG TIME!


(Oh, and is this thread in the stickies?)


I know nothing about electrical, need some help, and am proud to admit it.

This all started when I needed a battery, about 3-4 months ago... Never had a problem till then.

So I need a batt, IIRC it sat a long time and would not take a charge. So I go get one.

I have no money and no job at the time so I get what I can, the cheapest batt.

It lasts 1-2 days and it acts dead. So I go back where I bought it and they run all the tests they can.

They tell me it's the batt, and give me a new one...

2 days later the same thing... They test it again, and tell me it's the batt and give me another one...

2 days later, deja-vu the same thing.

They give me a batt, and all's fine for TWO MONTHS!

So I'm driving to work the other day and my luck catches up with me... I turn the last corner and my freaking shifter breaks off and comes off in my hand. NBD, I'll just drive it home in 2nd.

Get back in it after work and it barely starts. It starts and I drive it home all the time my lights are fading... fading... fading...

So I go get a new batt. under warranty, only this time I've got some $$ so I upgrade...

Lasts a day, then out of the blue barely turn then dead when I go run a errand Saturday mourning.


So, I need some help... The Idiots Guide style... And as of yet, this vary moment I have NO Multi-Meter.

How the heck do I find something Advanced can't even find with their "Test on car" testers?

All times it's passed a draw test. Key off, they're telling me it's not drawing anything.

4 batteries in 3 months and counting.

 

[cruiser88]

what type of battery and what is the group size they are giving you, and where are you getting it and the testing done?

Do you have a cd player and can you snap me a picture of the battery setup?

autozone sells a cheap 15 buck tester go get it.

 

[cruiser88]

I can tell you now advance auto parts for the most part dont know what they are doing even with a DC amp probe.

Autozone guys cannot test for a amp draw when its not running.....period

 

[KLF]

Get a meter and report back. You can't find a parasitic drain without one. It needs to be able to read up to 10A DC.

 

[Hilux]

Ok, went and got a meter.


Haven't messed with it since last post. Went yesterday and had them charge the batt. and I got a meter but may have goofed.

It's a 400Amp auto ranging clamp meter.

Amprobe Distributed Nationwide In The US Through Lowe's

I guess it can do all the things a Multi Meter can, IDK? I'm new to this electrical carp. I've never needed to know anything about it...

what type of battery and what is the group size they are giving you, and where are you getting it and the testing done?

The new Batt. is a Autocraft Silver. P# 24-5, 600cold, 750amp with a 110 reserve.

The old ones were economy's. All times Advanced tested the batt, in the truck both running and not running.

Do you have a cd player and can you snap me a picture of the battery setup?

autozone sells a cheap 15 buck tester go get it.

There's nothing to take a pic of. It's the stock 3 wire set-up. 1 NEG and 1 POS with the little wire off the POS going to the fuse box.


A battery tester or a multi meter? linky?


.........................................................


Tested the batt and got 12.??

Put the clamp meter around all the alt wires and got nothing while it was running.


tested the batt again and it was slightly less IIRC.



Gonna do some more searching...



Any easy things to troubleshoot with this clamp?

 

[Bogo]

Put the clamp meter around all the alt wires and got nothing while it was running.

You should have gotten a current reading from the single wire that is connected to the post on the back of the alternator. At the minimum it should have been providing the electrical energy needed to keep the truck running.

 

[cruiser88]

I get off work at 3, let me get a little rest in and I can walk you through it over the phone. pm me your #