Keep at it DIAB.... don't forget to take that rag out of the turbo outlet.... are you going to heat shield the exhaust or leave it naked.....
Troopzilla
- Thread starter dadinabarrel
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- #62
I have a real terror of starting it up for the first time and finding that lost head washer 
!!!
Naked with the best shielding (my) money can buy on my inlet manifold and the underside of my WTA intercooler
Then if I have a heat problem I'll find a way to shield the exhaust manifold
I have to fit a massive scoop to the bonnet so it will close, that should help keep things cool.
!!!Naked with the best shielding (my) money can buy on my inlet manifold and the underside of my WTA intercooler
Then if I have a heat problem I'll find a way to shield the exhaust manifold
I have to fit a massive scoop to the bonnet so it will close, that should help keep things cool.
How many amps does your fan pull?
I've been crunching numbers on claimed power vs power consumption and actual air velocities for my own application. I'm currently running a pair of corolla/corona fans which are ~100w each.
I found the claimed CFM ratings for aftermarket fans of no reputable brand are complete bollocks. Reputable brands of the same size and power were claiming as little as half the CFM.
I also found most fans would produce only 30-40km/h air-speed maximum. And as you add more restriction in front of them they'll pull even less.
The 16" Spal that closely resembles your one is in their catalogue with 1950CFM max (free air) and ~30 amps (390w) power consumption.
For comparison my tdi car has factory fitted ~400w of thermo-electrics to cool a ~100kw diesel. A large 250w and a smaller 150w which pull air through the factory AC radiator, front mount intercooler and engine radiator.
I have to run dual fans to fit the shape of my radiator, I also need about 400w total but with a controller which will speed them up when needed and let them run slow with the AC on at idle so it doesn't make a huge amount of noise and suck too much power when not needed.
I've been crunching numbers on claimed power vs power consumption and actual air velocities for my own application. I'm currently running a pair of corolla/corona fans which are ~100w each.
I found the claimed CFM ratings for aftermarket fans of no reputable brand are complete bollocks. Reputable brands of the same size and power were claiming as little as half the CFM.
I also found most fans would produce only 30-40km/h air-speed maximum. And as you add more restriction in front of them they'll pull even less.
The 16" Spal that closely resembles your one is in their catalogue with 1950CFM max (free air) and ~30 amps (390w) power consumption.
For comparison my tdi car has factory fitted ~400w of thermo-electrics to cool a ~100kw diesel. A large 250w and a smaller 150w which pull air through the factory AC radiator, front mount intercooler and engine radiator.
I have to run dual fans to fit the shape of my radiator, I also need about 400w total but with a controller which will speed them up when needed and let them run slow with the AC on at idle so it doesn't make a huge amount of noise and suck too much power when not needed.
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- Thread starter
- #64
For me it comes down to - if it keeps it as cool as the stock fan, I'm keeping it, if it doesn't, I'll change it back. Where can I get details on the variable speed controller you're using?
I haven't got one yet. Just thermo-switch on/off. I've been following some Aussies using Falcon fans in landrovers, but most are paranoid about fan controllers failing somewhere in the middle of nowhere. So wiring them up with a relay bypass might be worth it.
- Thread starter
- #66
I really thought doing the injection pump timing was going to be stressful. So easy, 30min job. Was set at 1.045 - now set at 1.09 to meet the new injectors next week 
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- #67
Knocked up a new stainless steel 3" exhaust system today. I fabbed and fitted, Willie welded (as usual)
I'm really happy with it, I can't wait to hear this thing run after all the other mods are put together.
I'm really happy with it, I can't wait to hear this thing run after all the other mods are put together.
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- #68
I've started the mods on the new dual pass WTA intercooler radiator, this is pretty much how it'll look once it's in.
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- #70
Digital air/fuel ratio
I got an Innovate Motorsports one. I've got it setup on a short piece of exhaust pipe and cigarette lighter plug. I can shift it from vehicle to vehicle.
- Thread starter
- #72
Cool I've got the same, the LS - 2
I'm looking forward to being able to tune my pin with the software
I'm looking forward to being able to tune my pin with the software
Wow. Stunning work.
It's absolutely not what I'd be looking for in my own Cruiser, but I have to say, full marks for workmanship.
That being said: I've had a rusty tailpipe in my old HZJ75 Troopie actually melt the taillight in my spare wheel carrier bumper. I'm wondering about exhaust temperature that close to the tyre? Or are you planning to make the tyre sticky for better 0-60 times?
- Thread starter
- #74
It's further away than it looks, it'll be ok.
0 - 60mph in 2 minutes
0 - 60mph in 2 minutes
Do you plan on running any protection/mesh in front of the I/C radiator...
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- #76
Something, probably steel fly wire
- Thread starter
- #77
If anyone is interested, as the other half of this build I have converted my HZJ75 to an automatic transmission as well:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/hzj75-troopy-automatic-conversion.794160/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/hzj75-troopy-automatic-conversion.794160/
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- #78
I just checked the link and it's definitely not going where it is supposed to, is it me or everyone?
Took me to your autobox swap thread. Looks to be all good.
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- #80
Thanks mate, interesting, it's fine from my mac but not from my phone, I'll PM Woody so he can check out the glitch