Troopzilla

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Plenty done today, intercooler radiator is complete

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Here's a shot with everything almost finished. I'm just waiting for my injectors and a few other bits to turn up.

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Just one fabrication job left and that will be making a new throttle/kickdown cable assembly. Based upon the original gear, just with an extended shaft using a 120' section of double pulley so the accelerator can pull one way and the kickdown will come from the other.

Sounds easy enough ;)

The only unknown is whether the curve required for one is a mirror of the other - utilising a 1:1 pull. Sometimes these pulleys are curved slow to fast or fast to slow which is used to determine where the gears change/kickdown.
 
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Looks nicely done. Will you need a bleed screw at the highest point or can you push water fast enough to chase the air out? What pump are you using?
 
I'm putting a bleed screw at the highest point above the inlet/outlet on the WTA.

Bosch Cobra.

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I had my mate machine me up a few blank pins, now we're going to have some fun :poof:

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I still haven't come across anyone with a symetrical pin like mine, I really did question what I was seeing, so we spun it up in the lathe to see whether it wobbled or how much



Steady and smooth, no doubt about it, symetrical, the first one I've come across/heard of.

I'm guessing it's someone else's attempt at a custom pin. Although it does have the number 23 stamped into the bottom of the shaft.

I brings up the question - What other factory pins are available and how do you get them?
 
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this is bad ass...
Quick question about your intercooler water lines.
Are you making sure that water has to pass through the core so you are not essentially getting warm water that just left the core going back into the core?
I like your pins, i may contact you in the future about some if I can't work this out myself.
 
4L storage tank into pump to bottom of I/C radiator (dual pass) out the top, into manifold side of the WTA out turbo side back to tank. (Counter current heat recovery)
 
To find the start point for my spring tension I keep winding up from the bottom until the pin top just touched the ground cam. The cover has only as much spring against it as the thickness of the diaphragm so sits basically flush.

Mark my pin

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Drop it in, give it a wiggle and there's the start point for my ramp

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It'll be starting 3mm from the bottom of the pin, sweet
 
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New pin nearly ready to go, I just need to tidy up that top edge, the stock pin only allowed it to throw out to 3mm on the flat, this one throws out to max - 6.8mm so I should be getting everything

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I ran the shrouded electric fan up yesterday. Pfft, not impressed, I'll be back to the stock setup by the end of the day.
 
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mate, awesome work. but i reckon this is a potential smoke hazard. just leaving the plastic tubing loose and not fixed to the metal would reduce much of the risk, but i'd use a heatproof sheath or metal spring for the first couple of inches to be safe
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thought about this?
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you could try and mesh a vdj bonnet with the 75 bonnet. Zoltan did it...
 
A bit of quick work with the angle grinder gets it shut, just waiting for the bonnet scoop now.

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I'm very happy with the 28 new LED's, the fours are pointing slightly outboard. That's where the roos will be coming from. New halogen upgrade kit for the headlights and new indicator lenses to round things off.
 
thought about this?
22-75-sports-bonnet3.jpg

you could try and mesh a vdj bonnet with the 75 bonnet. Zoltan did it...

Wish I had of, that looks wicked, but I've got one coming from South Australia that will bolt on nicely.
 
looking top, i just picked up a 120W bar that I can't wait to fit with the HID converted 240 light forces.
Let there be light!
 
Sweet, just fitted 38mm spacers all round.

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I'm happy with 32" wheels, these things are tall enough already with 2" lift on parabolics and air bags.

But it's really nice to get the extra width to the wheel track
 

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