Troll trailer build

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looks like a perfect base to me.

If I ever get around to building a trailer I will probably order from here:
ABC Trailer Parts - Trailer Axles - Trailer Axle Kits

ABC is the best place IMHO. I think your base is very doable, and if it is welded together. You'll be all set. The reality that many are not towing their trailers on anything other than fireroads is real (myself included). While you might prepare for an extreme event, I would look at the wheeling you have done for the past 5 years and figure what your needs are based on that.

So there are really no prefered springs. Just something that will hold the weight? I was thinking about going with an axle that had drum provisions just incase someone wanted to add them later. It's only like 20 more. Is this possible to do? Advantages to going one type of spindle? Certain number of lugs and spacing?

Lightweight will reward you. However I do believe in over rating the leafs a bit, you can always pull a leaf and add shocks to adjust the ride. However most of the suspension will come through the hitch articulation and the trailers articulation from side to side. The springs don't need flex like our rig, they have a single pivot point (the hitch). I think shocks are a good idea on a trailer but any springs will get the job done.

That said, I wished I would have used some old 40 springs since they are longer and will produce a bit more flex... but the main benifit would be disappation of heat on washboards. Most springs fail from being too short and the resulting fatigue and heat build up. Think Baja.

The group wisdom here is that torsion axles are great for a highway trailer but aren't robust enough for an off road trailer. :meh:

I don't know if that is a real world result, however it is urban legend. If the guys at AT have moved away from them, it is worth considering as they are the best in the biz IMHO.
 
The rubber torsion "spring" that connects the two hubs just couldn't stand repeated washboard and/or more travel...it was a durability issue for AT.
 
I was thinking about your post the other day and wondering why you would go with a three link/pan hard rather than a four link, it's not like bump steer would be a problem with a trailer.
Simplicity. In the previous graphic there are only two joints with significant relative motion and a third with some minor motion. The diagonal's end joints would have minimal movement and would have less lateral wheel/tire dislocation in wheel travel than a more typical panhard rod.

I maintain that the rubber in the torsion axles fails it's vulcanization from the heat generated in washboard roads and similar conditions. (How do you take apart something that has been vulcanized? The fastest method is with heat.) AT says that they're not reliable, but did they ever test them with a shock in place? My trailer, with shocks in place, is a counter to their condemnation as it has done all of the things that AT says makes them fail. The rule in science is that no matter the size of the mass of supporting evidence it won't absolutely confirm a theory, but one contrary piece of evidence destroys the theory. So far, my trailer is destroying their theory.
 
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I suggest that all look at current military trailers. Every single one is or will be on torsion axles. I spoke with the National Sales manager of Dexter Torflex about three weeks ago. He states that failure in this matter has never happened, or at leat that he is aware. The US military is currently testing a torflex with rubber bag system for trailers weighing over 5500 pounds, all below will continue to get the standard torflex axle.

I would say that the US military is far more knowledgable about off road use than anyone else in the world. Millions of miles of some of the hardest use imagined and the lives of our Soldiers and Marines. The axles have to be able to with stand tremendous impact and able to hit a ditch at 60 miles and hour and survive. They take a 5500 pound trailer and drop it from 20 feet as part of the testing.

Torsion axles have been used for many years. They increase the strength of the trailer by forming another major cross member, virtually nothing to break compared to other systems.

I have used torsion axles for over 25 years on every type of trailer imagineable. I have never had one or seen one or heard of one failing except here and expedition portal quoting AT and their results.
 
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Leaf Springs

Troll,

Go to a junk yard or if you want to buy new and save the clean up time, pickup some CJ springs. Most 1/4ton Mil trailers are running a close match to early CJ5 front springs to CJ3(I'm pretty sure). I have used my springs pretty hard and I like them. I actually had my original trailer springs rebuilt.

Check out Steel Soldiers, you may find a used set of springs and axle on there. Heck, I have an axle if you want to pay for shipping, with an e-brake.

I agree with a previous poster, standard leaf springs, not the mini trailer springs are the better way to go. Have fun.

Jeremy
 
I recall seeing a trailer brake backing plate with a parking brake option on one of the trailer axle vendor's pages? Maybe redneck or ABC? Don't recall for sure, but do remember thinking that I wanted those when I get around to putting brakes on my trailer.
 
Any dexter dealer can get you a 3500 with parking brake, approx $440. But if you don't care what the lug pattern is, a used 1/4 ton axle will get you parking brake and stout axle cheaper.
 
Put shocks on it. Dexter probably doesn't think it's needed. Based on my trailer chassis fabricator's adding them after the fact (for the PO), I do.
 
So where can I find a dealer that sells torsion axles that can be a custom length and have a hand brake?
Look in the yellow pages for a place that builds trailers. I notice there is a Northern Tool brick and mortar store not far from you, they seem to sell a lot of trailer parts.
 

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