not personally no. but if you have the 2 dif hose ends i know a place to get them made for a very reasonable price.
Tried to get my A/C charged...
- Thread starter JLH911
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
not personally no. but if you have the 2 dif hose ends i know a place to get them made for a very reasonable price.
I never said it was 80% R134a i dont actually know what it is comprised of honestly but in our trucks i have had excelent luck with R134a. i charged goofy02022's truck (a 62) and his blows down in the upper 30's to lower 40's on a 80-90*F day.
I was ASE certified... does that make me a professional? or does the fact that i get paid to do it make me a professional? either way its pretty easy stuff honestly.
chris777
TLCA member #12444
CruisinFJ60, I was replying to DoctorJJ.
thanks for setting us straight on freeze12 Doc.
thanks for setting us straight on freeze12 Doc.
I don't know how r12 could be better than 134a. In my Cruiser, with no changes other than charging it up with 134a, it will put out air at the register with temps in the upper 30's with almost any ambient temp and I've seen it as low as 35. I've been running 134a for about 50-60K miles.
my truck got down to 33*F at a 900rpm idle time was dusk and about 90-95*F ambient air temp while vehicle sitting still. thats with R134a
some vehicle dont respond well to R134a and others arnt bothered in the least.
im jut sayin.
I agree. I do think that part of the reason you see the big differences among trucks is that 134a seems to be more finicky about under or over charging. You have to get the amount of refrigerant just right.
I have had MUCH better results with R12 the system was designed to work with R12 and is optimized for it. My Chevy/Toyota hybrid A/C system running R12 will put out COLD air (below 32 deg).
Any replacement Receiver drier will work fine.
Freeze12 is FLAMMABLE so I will not use it for that reason. (They do advertise it as Non Flammable but I have been told by several A/C techs that it is)
R12 can be purchased in any south of the border auto parts store in the typical old style 1lb can. However, it is illegal to bring it back into the USA.
Lastly, there are about 8 O-rings that should be changed out if you are redoing the system. It is probably easier to let the A/C shop swap out the O-rings, they have the right ones in the right size and if it leaks it's their work not yours. R12 systems run oil in line with the freon to keep things lubed up. When you loose the oil you loose the compressor.
Dynosoar
Any replacement Receiver drier will work fine.
Freeze12 is FLAMMABLE so I will not use it for that reason. (They do advertise it as Non Flammable but I have been told by several A/C techs that it is)
R12 can be purchased in any south of the border auto parts store in the typical old style 1lb can. However, it is illegal to bring it back into the USA.
Lastly, there are about 8 O-rings that should be changed out if you are redoing the system. It is probably easier to let the A/C shop swap out the O-rings, they have the right ones in the right size and if it leaks it's their work not yours. R12 systems run oil in line with the freon to keep things lubed up. When you loose the oil you loose the compressor.
Dynosoar
Last edited:
I just came across this link How to Fix Your Car's Air Conditioner - wikiHow that mentions some A/C pumps need the right refrigerant otherwise it kills the oil and they die. I think this has happened to mine, as I had it swapped over from another truck and charged a while ago, and now after a bit of use the compressor wheel is very stiff and barely works...
I was thinking about the idea of refilling with propane after I work on mine, but didn't know that it was actually feasible. Sure it's an explosive gas, but hey I'm already carrying around a full 20lb cylinder of the stuff on my truck as it is, so what's the diff. Also, that way I would always have an emergency supply of propane!
I was thinking about the idea of refilling with propane after I work on mine, but didn't know that it was actually feasible. Sure it's an explosive gas, but hey I'm already carrying around a full 20lb cylinder of the stuff on my truck as it is, so what's the diff. Also, that way I would always have an emergency supply of propane!
yup you need to flush the system and change the oil. no big deal.
and i really wanna try using propane... sounds cool as s***. and cheap as dirt for testing and finding leaks!
what kinda pressures should i see? same as using regular R12 or R134a?
I agree with Dynosoar, the system was designed for R12, so that's what I'd use. R134 molecules are smaller than R12, so they tend to find places to leak that might not have been a problem before. R12 is available, you just have to call around.
(We sell it for $28/12 oz can). You can also find a o-ring seal kit (Santech part # MT2582) at your local parts supplier, (shamless plug-we sell it for $4.57), and it has all the o-rings in the system.
The system will work with R134, just make sure you add PAG46 oil to the system-Toyotas in general, respond pretty well to being retrofitted. Good luck!
Rex
(We sell it for $28/12 oz can). You can also find a o-ring seal kit (Santech part # MT2582) at your local parts supplier, (shamless plug-we sell it for $4.57), and it has all the o-rings in the system.
The system will work with R134, just make sure you add PAG46 oil to the system-Toyotas in general, respond pretty well to being retrofitted. Good luck!
Rex
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
I've had R134a in both my BJ60 and the FJ55. The BJ60 has been running on R134a for about 4-5 years and the FJ55 about a year or so.
I have no complaints so far and I drive from Canada to Central America. I might be a little low on gas in the BJ60 as it's not quite as cool as it's been in the past though.
I have no complaints so far and I drive from Canada to Central America. I might be a little low on gas in the BJ60 as it's not quite as cool as it's been in the past though.
I'm cruising cool with 134, no worries
- Thread starter
- #34
Just replaced the compressor and the drier comes next. I'm going to have the system flushed once I have all new o-rings, get the new drier on and get the system tested for leaks.
btw, when I removed the drier, I shook it and could hear debris in there....most likely pieces of the impeller from the compressor.
Friday, I'll try again and see what happens.
I'm going with R-12 since I have some at hand.
btw, when I removed the drier, I shook it and could hear debris in there....most likely pieces of the impeller from the compressor.
Friday, I'll try again and see what happens.
I'm going with R-12 since I have some at hand.
Last edited:
Just replaced the compressor and the drier comes next. I'm going to have the system flushed once I have all new o-rings, get the new drier on and get the system tested for leaks.
btw, when I removed the drier, I shook it and could hear debris in there....most likely pieces of the impeller from the compressor.
Friday, I'll try again and see what happens.
I'm going with R-12 since I have some at hand.
all a drier is is inside it has a bag with a bunch of little bb type balls in it. similar of those used to put in electronic boxes in the little square packages. (the silica gel pellets) they are used to absorb moisture
so it may have been that that you heard rattling around.
ntsqd
technerd
Some (all?) dryers use silicone desiccant beads. They would rattle a little even if everything is good.
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
There is no impeller in the compressor. They use a wobble type piston/crank assembly.
Hey Thom!
After he gets it all together, I am shooting some juice into it on Friday to get it cool.
The desiccant is what is rattling around in there unless something else came apart in the dryer. No worries with a new dryer.
- Thread starter
- #39
I was thinking of getting this flushed, but it turns out no shops around here want to do just that....whatever..guess they want to do it all and that's fine.
My question is this...since I put a used (good working condition) compressor on, we don't know how much oil is in the compressor...if we put what we think is the right amount of oil in the system followed by a fresh charge of r-12, couldn't we be under oiling or even over oiling it?
Also, if the compressor locked up, could some debris be in the system just ready to float around and cause problems if I charged it without flushing it?
would just shooting compressed air through the lines be enough and if so, where do you blow air through and in which direction?
It almost seems like I should have all of this done at once.
What do you guys think?
My question is this...since I put a used (good working condition) compressor on, we don't know how much oil is in the compressor...if we put what we think is the right amount of oil in the system followed by a fresh charge of r-12, couldn't we be under oiling or even over oiling it?
Also, if the compressor locked up, could some debris be in the system just ready to float around and cause problems if I charged it without flushing it?
would just shooting compressed air through the lines be enough and if so, where do you blow air through and in which direction?
It almost seems like I should have all of this done at once.
What do you guys think?
