Transmission not shifting into 2nd gear

[Rainercar]

I have a 87 Land cruiser with a 4 speed transmission. The trans will not shift from 1st into 2nd gear, when moving. No problem going from 1st to 3rd or 4th while moving. Also, no problem shifting from 1st to 2nd while parked.
The car has a new clutch. Previous owner mentioned this problem as being "intermittent or "sometimes".
I bought the car in non running condition due to engine problems. I am just now test driving the car, after a complete engine rebuild.
Any thoughts ?

 

[micruz60]

Check the transmission fluid level, top off if necessary. Might help, but it is probably a worn synchro and a replacement / rebuild is in the future.

 

[Godwin]

The shifter o-ring may only need replacing. It's a round nylon bushing that sits in the shift tower of the transmission. You'll need to pull out your shift lever to see the bushing, then as long as the shifter is out replace the bushing.

 

[60Works]

Have had this happen. For my '87 it was that the two rivets in the tower were loose and allowed the shifter to move out of alignment, catching on the 'H' guards which shifting fork the shifter engages.

When it happens again, try letting off pressure on the stick and gently wiggling it while shifting. It will likely move freely.

Fix is a new H55F 5 Speed.

4 speed hard to get out of first gear ?????

 

[60Works]

"Here's a picture with the H42 in 1st. Notice how far the reverse spring protrudes into the 1-2 slot?



The left hand side rotation pin is so loose you can watch it wiggle when shifting. Perhaps it's a combination of loose and worn pins, shifter bushing, shifter, and shift forks.



I was able to get this H42 to stick in 1st nearly every time. Plus, if I put pressure on the shift lever towards the right, it would clear every time."

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

dumb question, did the clutch get put in right? if it gets in backwards, it doesn't release...

 

[cruisedeisel]

hmmm? I am having a hard time getting into 1st gear on my h55f 5 speed. I was thinking it could be something like rivets and/or the bushing. Let me know if you figure it out.

 

[cruisedeisel]

ALthough when i slapt the shifter towards the 1st gear area on a angle it always goes in? Same running or stopped. engine on or off.

 

[Rainercar]

dumb question, did the clutch get put in right? if it gets in backwards, it doesn't release...

Would it not do the same going into the other gears ?
The clutch friction plate has a hub on one side and the flush hub on the other side.
I installed the hub side toward the motor. I don't think you can install the friction plate backwards...

 

[gregnash]

@klinetime574 I believe had a similar issue and ended up it was the bushing on the end of the shifter. If you look in his build thread I believe it was like a little over a year ago (summer of 2015?) that he went through everything.

 

[Rainercar]

I just drove the car again, trying various things. when going into 2nd, when I hold more pressure on the lever, it shifts. So hard pulling on the shifter will let it go into 2nd gear. Again, when stationary the shifter then moves smooth and easy. Maybe my synchros are stiff.
Will drive some more, before I pull the shifter to inspect for things mentioned above, as well as checking for oil level etc.

 

[roscoFJ73]

I just drove the car again, trying various things. when going into 2nd, when I hold more pressure on the lever, it shifts. So hard pulling on the shifter will let it go into 2nd gear. Again, when stationary the shifter then moves smooth and easy. Maybe my synchros are stiff.
Will drive some more, before I pull the shifter to inspect for things mentioned above, as well as checking for oil level etc.

Is this when the gearbox is cold? I don't know about the 4sp but the 5sp are always awkward to shift from 1st to 2nd when the oil is thick. It takes 10 mins for them to warm up.
But I always take off in 2nd unless its a tight spot or on a steep hill.

 

[Rainercar]

"Here's a picture with the H42 in 1st. Notice how far the reverse spring protrudes into the 1-2 slot?



The left hand side rotation pin is so loose you can watch it wiggle when shifting. Perhaps it's a combination of loose and worn pins, shifter bushing, shifter, and shift forks.



I was able to get this H42 to stick in 1st nearly every time. Plus, if I put pressure on the shift lever towards the right, it would clear every time."

My LH pin is loose a small amount, not sure if that will cause my problem. RH pin is tight.
How did you fix the pin ?

 

[Rainercar]

Removed the shifter, everything looks OK in there. The LH rivet is a little bit loose, but the right one is tight. Will re-address that issue tomorrow, when I take it apart again to check, if the lock-out pin protrudes into the center 1-2 shift path, as it did on Juggernaught's trans. Forgot to look at it closely, will look at it mere closely tomorrow. (Had to put it back together, have an appointment to get it smog-ed tomorrow.
when looking into the opening with the engine running, i can see the input shaft turning, oil splashing all-over.
After putting it back together and driving it around the block several times, I played with the shifting, double clutching, going fast, slow, you name it, does not get better. One thing I noticed, when I shift fast from 1st to 2nd, it goes in better, but when shifting with a small pause in neutral, its hard and needs pressure to shift. I even turned-off the engine and coasted with-out engine power, same thing.
Looks like synchros to me... Also, trans in whining, seams in all gears, loudest in 1st, get less in higher gears. Not sure if its the trans, may be my rear-end. Having a friend coming over tonight, to give me his opinion...
Have to get it smog-ed first, so I can it registered and insurance for it... DMV will not let me register it, until its smog-ed.

Started to look for a H55F....

 

[Rainercar]

Is this when the gearbox is cold? I don't know about the 4sp but the 5sp are always awkward to shift from 1st to 2nd when the oil is thick. It takes 10 mins for them to warm up.
But I always take off in 2nd unless its a tight spot or on a steep hill.

Have not driven it more than 5 min at a time, need tabs for my plate first... Hope it may improve once the trans warms up...

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Would it not do the same going into the other gears ?
The clutch friction plate has a hub on one side and the flush hub on the other side.
I installed the hub side toward the motor. I don't think you can install the friction plate backwards...

oh...you can...glad you didn't tho...

 

[dnp]

Best place to buy a shifter bushing?

 

[4Cruisers]

Best place to buy a shifter bushing?

Toyota dealer:

33505-60010 or 33505-60011 depending on your model year - dealer can ensure you get the right one if you give them your VIN

 

[Rainercar]

Got my replacement 4 speed. Getting ready to take the transmission/transfer case out.
Does anybody have a description or pic's of how to remove the unit with-out a hoist ?
I have the car front on (2) ramps, which lifted the front up 9 to 19" to give me an approx 19" clearance between the floor and the bottom of the door.
With my jack at approx 4" high, that gives me around 15" . not quite enough, but, I could tip the unit or slide it off the jack, once it down,
and than drag it out on cardboard or similar.
But, how would I get it back in ? Any suggestions ?

Also, when splitting the case, I see that there are a few special pullers and tools required to dis-assemble and re-assemble.
Debating if I should do the job myself... Who sells the special pullers ? I may buy a hydr press from HF... I have most all the rest of the tools.
I am not concerned about the job itself, I am familiar with gear box design and the manual is very detailed in the procedure.
Trying to safe having a shop do the job...


Rainer

 

[4Cruisers]

Got my replacement 4 speed. Getting ready to take the transmission/transfer case out.
Does anybody have a description or pic's of how to remove the unit with-out a hoist ?
I have the car front on (2) ramps, which lifted the front up 9 to 19" to give me an approx 19" clearance between the floor and the bottom of the door.
With my jack at approx 4" high, that gives me around 15" . not quite enough, but, I could tip the unit or slide it off the jack, once it down,
and than drag it out on cardboard or similar.
But, how would I get it back in ? Any suggestions ?

Also, when splitting the case, I see that there are a few special pullers and tools required to dis-assemble and re-assemble.
Debating if I should do the job myself... Who sells the special pullers ? I may buy a hydr press from HF... I have most all the rest of the tools.
I am not concerned about the job itself, I am familiar with gear box design and the manual is very detailed in the procedure.
Trying to safe having a shop do the job...


Rainer

I found that using an engine hoist works fine, along with a floor jack. I stab the engine hoist arm through the door opening and run a sling around the transmission over the hook. You can buy a 1-ton collapsible foldable shop crane from HF Tools for $139.99 with coupon, though December 24th:

1 Ton Capacity Foldable Shop Crane

I was able to buy a used 2-ton engine hoist for $150 a number of years ago. I've gotten a lot of use out of it over the years, for less money than a good quality low profile transmission jack.

I've also put my FJ60 up on car ramps both front and rear, facing opposite directions so there's no way the vehicle can roll. Gives you ample clearance for easily pulling the transmission/transfer case out from under the vehicle.