I searched the FAQ's and didn't see anything on how to check the transmission fluid level on a 2007 LX470. I know this model doesn't have a dipstick so I'm a little lost. Thanks in advance.
Transmission Fluid Level Check (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter JGRaider
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Read through the first post in this thread. There’s a section regarding the fluid level check procedure.
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WS ATF Flush Procedure
Background Just did Transmission fluid flush on my '05 LX470 at ~85k. Used 16Qts total of WS ATF but had a few spills. It took me much longer than I expected this first time. I only owned it since 70k, but to my knowledge the tranny fluid was never changed. Either way, I was glad to see...
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Thank you very much.
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Honestly can't believe that, with the level of engineering that went into these LC/LX's, there's not an easy way to add/check transmission fluid. Whoever decided to take the AT dip stick system out needs to be flogged.
Best video I've seen describing the sealed Toyota transmission.
Note: Toyota has TSB out on level check ATF temperature. In 2004-08. They reduced level checking temp to: 97-115F.
We've also somewhat confusing information on level check temp in 98-03:
OM states normal operating temp, which FSM states as 122-176F. FSM has ATF temp check range at 158-176F. Which if you watch ATF temps while driving, most report ATF runs below 158F. Personally I'm more comfortable with level higher than lower. Which means I top at lower temps.
Toyota recommended AFT types:
98-02 ATF Dex III
Toy ATF IV in the 03
04- Toy ATF WS
Also note: Synthetic Mobil 1 MV ATF (Toyota Dex III approved) in 98-02. That synthetic runs cooler, so we see less expansion of fluid.
We've also somewhat confusing information on level check temp in 98-03:
OM states normal operating temp, which FSM states as 122-176F. FSM has ATF temp check range at 158-176F. Which if you watch ATF temps while driving, most report ATF runs below 158F. Personally I'm more comfortable with level higher than lower. Which means I top at lower temps.
Toyota recommended AFT types:
98-02 ATF Dex III
Toy ATF IV in the 03
04- Toy ATF WS
Also note: Synthetic Mobil 1 MV ATF (Toyota Dex III approved) in 98-02. That synthetic runs cooler, so we see less expansion of fluid.
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Nice video, but I didn't see where it had anything to do with a 5 speed, 2007 LC/LX470. Could have missed it. I guess I'm still too dense to understand how to check ATF level, and top it off for that matter.
Check level 04-07 LC or LX:
With ATF fluid at 97-115F.
ATF temperature, is read in tech stream. If you don't have tech stream hookup to view live data. You can read by shooting transmission pan with IR temperature gun. But ambient temp, how close IR gun to pan (need very close) and where you target pan (find hottest spot not close to a CAT). Will all affect temperature reading on your IR gun. I find gun reads lower by 2 to 3 degrees, with ambient temperature about 80F, and my shop concert floor about 62F.
To bring temperature up, drive. Once you stop on level ground, with engine idling. Put e-brake on hard, and chock wheel (so vehicle will not roll over you, and injure or kill you!). Check temperature at pan. If temp to low, shift into 1st, with foot brake pressed on hard, and raise RPM to about 1,300. Shift though to each forward drive position up to D and back to 1st, holding in each for a few second (about 5 seconds). As you continue to hold brake peddle down hard. Drop RPM back to idle and shift to R, do not raise RPMs in R. Now check temperature again, while engine idles and transmission in park (P).
Once ATF up to target temperature range:
Remove check plug, while engine idling and transmission in P. ATF will flow out of check valve, if level to high (don't be fooled by a tiny little amount in check straw coming out) until level correct. If level to low, ATF will not flow out check valve.
Add 1/2 qt Toy ATF WS. Check level again. If still to low add 1/4qt and check level again. Be very careful when adding ATF. The exhaust pipe will burn you. For this reason I add with engine cold. It is near impossible to get at fill plug, without arm touching exhaust. Note: fill plugs needs to be in, while bringing temp of ATF up.
With ATF fluid at 97-115F.
ATF temperature, is read in tech stream. If you don't have tech stream hookup to view live data. You can read by shooting transmission pan with IR temperature gun. But ambient temp, how close IR gun to pan (need very close) and where you target pan (find hottest spot not close to a CAT). Will all affect temperature reading on your IR gun. I find gun reads lower by 2 to 3 degrees, with ambient temperature about 80F, and my shop concert floor about 62F.
To bring temperature up, drive. Once you stop on level ground, with engine idling. Put e-brake on hard, and chock wheel (so vehicle will not roll over you, and injure or kill you!). Check temperature at pan. If temp to low, shift into 1st, with foot brake pressed on hard, and raise RPM to about 1,300. Shift though to each forward drive position up to D and back to 1st, holding in each for a few second (about 5 seconds). As you continue to hold brake peddle down hard. Drop RPM back to idle and shift to R, do not raise RPMs in R. Now check temperature again, while engine idles and transmission in park (P).
Once ATF up to target temperature range:
Remove check plug, while engine idling and transmission in P. ATF will flow out of check valve, if level to high (don't be fooled by a tiny little amount in check straw coming out) until level correct. If level to low, ATF will not flow out check valve.
Add 1/2 qt Toy ATF WS. Check level again. If still to low add 1/4qt and check level again. Be very careful when adding ATF. The exhaust pipe will burn you. For this reason I add with engine cold. It is near impossible to get at fill plug, without arm touching exhaust. Note: fill plugs needs to be in, while bringing temp of ATF up.
When you say "ATF will flow out of check valve," do you mean the refill plug hole?
Huh. They lost me when dipsticks disappeared. Thanks.
Yeah, PITA since they removed the dipstick
I just checked the FSM and I see all that is check valve is an overflow tube at the correct fluid level that drains through that hole. I want my dipstick back.
I've had Toyota doing the transmission service in my rig and figured it's worth checking over the fluid level. For those of us lucky enough to have an earlier model with a dipstick , where do you fill up if the system if it needs to be topped off?
Through the dipstick I believe
Gotcha, I wasn't sure if there was a fill down below and I haven't had a chance to look at the fsm. Thanks
Tip:
With dipstick fill.
When doing a full 12 qt flush. We add ~1/2 qt less, than we take out. This so so we'll not need to drain off (remove drain plug) more.
To set level. Take A/T fluid temp up to ~160f (158F to 176F), shifting through all gears. Check level while idling in P on level ground.
Without dipstick:
We add 1/2 qt extra. Set level with A/T fluid (A/T temp #1) at 100F (97F to 115F).
Keep in mind: The lower the temperature the more fluid to get to High Full mark. The higher the A/F temp, the less fluid to get to High Full mark.
With dipstick fill.
When doing a full 12 qt flush. We add ~1/2 qt less, than we take out. This so so we'll not need to drain off (remove drain plug) more.
To set level. Take A/T fluid temp up to ~160f (158F to 176F), shifting through all gears. Check level while idling in P on level ground.
Without dipstick:
We add 1/2 qt extra. Set level with A/T fluid (A/T temp #1) at 100F (97F to 115F).
Keep in mind: The lower the temperature the more fluid to get to High Full mark. The higher the A/F temp, the less fluid to get to High Full mark.
I did my flush at the radiator and added fluid amounts equal to the amount removed.At first check(engine running) nothing came out of the check plug so I added a1/2 quart,warmed the transmission to 100 degrees at the pan.This time when I removed the plug fluid drained at a heavy stream and then slowed to a slower but steady stream.My question is,should I let more fluid drain until I get an almost drip?Is there a danger of having too much fluid?
If temp is holding steady, it will stop flowing out. If AT fluid temp is increasing/climbing, it will tickle out at about same rate as temp climbs.
What I find as I watch AT fluid temp # 1 (06-07 show AT 1 & 2) in tech stream. Starting/removing check plug at 97F. AT temp is often slowly climbing as I check.
Tip: Checking with IR gun on bottom of pan. IR gun needs to be within ~3" and at hottest area found on bottom, away from exhaust. Keep watching temp. Fluid comes out fast when overfilled, then slows to match temp climb.
Note: IR gun is not accurate. It will be affected by: ambient temp. radiant heat, distance and it's only bottom of pan.
What I find as I watch AT fluid temp # 1 (06-07 show AT 1 & 2) in tech stream. Starting/removing check plug at 97F. AT temp is often slowly climbing as I check.
Tip: Checking with IR gun on bottom of pan. IR gun needs to be within ~3" and at hottest area found on bottom, away from exhaust. Keep watching temp. Fluid comes out fast when overfilled, then slows to match temp climb.
Note: IR gun is not accurate. It will be affected by: ambient temp. radiant heat, distance and it's only bottom of pan.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Yes, you can have too much fluid in the case. It'll foam and lose its ability to flow at pressure.
