When I trying to remove the transmission drain plug, it was harder than it should have been. The more I loosened it, the tighter it became. Once I was able to remove the drain plug, the threads on the end are gone. I can't find any tap that will the threads. It looks like I may be in for ordering a new transmission pan to clean up this mess.
Transmission drain plug stripped. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter OwnerCS
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ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Who needs threads??
However, should all else fail, the James May approach may be your only option.
However, should all else fail, the James May approach may be your only option.
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- Thread starter
- #4
Hey Buddy - Once again I'm following in your footsteps. I just removed the (19) 10 mm transmission pan bolts. This is sealed with red FIPG so removal will be a party.
Which end do I start with the putty knife?
- Thread starter
- #5
How's this for fast?
I don't know if this can be salvaged. The plug and it seem to be soft metal for the purpose. I remember the first time I removed it I had to baby it back on thinking it would come back to bite me in the future. It did. Looking at the bright side, nothing unexpected found in the pan after removal.
I don't know if this can be salvaged. The plug and it seem to be soft metal for the purpose. I remember the first time I removed it I had to baby it back on thinking it would come back to bite me in the future. It did. Looking at the bright side, nothing unexpected found in the pan after removal.
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
Where did you end up starting with the knife to break the fipg?
Always start at the drivers side rear corner of the pan. Use a small hammer to 'tap' the putty knife parallel with the long side of the pan. You only have to go down that one side. Then you'll have enough of it loose to gently pry the pan off.
Then be SURE to get the mating surfaces completely CLEAN and dry if you plan on going back with FIPG
- Thread starter
- #8
Left side from the rear. Just tapped it along the lefft edge and the pan started falling off.
- Thread starter
- #9
Ha! That's exactly the way I approached it.
No Sir. Didn't even try to source it since I've read of so many FIPG failures (expired product) with it recently. The FIPG I used is oil and temperature rated. Was ready for ATF after 2 hrs. 'set time'....full cure is in 12-15 hrs, though I let mine sit overnight before driving.
I tried running a thread chasing tap down mine and use a new drain plug, but it just would not seal (slow drips overnight). So I just ordered a new pan. I have some weld in 'bungs' that will accept a 1/4" NPT plug. When I don't have anything better to do, I will repair the old pan that way, for a spare or to donate to some needy person.
You're good to go then. I found that using a 'sanding sponge' on the transmission's mating surface (after scrapping with a razor blade) made for an easy way to clean that surface (120 grit). It needs to be clean and oil free.
- Thread starter
- #15
Did you replace the o-ring that is on the lower part of the dipstick tube or does one come with a new pan?
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- #16
Thank you @flintknapper for your help. I will get up early and start calling around for parts. With expedited $98 shipping, McG is giving a 7/23-7/26 delivery date. I need to find a solution by Wednesday or my CO trip plans may be in jeopardy.
- Thread starter
- #18
Thank you!
I have a temporary solution in the works. My youngest son has some good connections with a local machine shop. I will send it over there to get a plug installed or to just close the hole. Then when I get back from CO, I can install a permanent solution. It's not like I need to change the transmission fluid again for a while. Also, I was happy not to find any metal or sludge in the transmission bottom or magnets.
I was able to pull the pan in about 30 minutes. So no big deal to do it again when I have the right parts in hand.
- Thread starter
- #19
The "temp fix" was installed last night. A local machine shop plugged the drain hole and welded it shut. I'm just waiting for the FIPG to cure before filling this afternoon. Now I'll be able to depart for CO on schedule.
In comparing the transmission shape and position of the drain plug compared to where the dipstick hole enters the pan, I think I can remove more fluid by using my MityVac fluid extractor than by using the drain plug.
I will install a new pan some weekend in the fall when the weather is cooler and less yard work to do.
Thanks to all that contributed to this thread.
In comparing the transmission shape and position of the drain plug compared to where the dipstick hole enters the pan, I think I can remove more fluid by using my MityVac fluid extractor than by using the drain plug.
I will install a new pan some weekend in the fall when the weather is cooler and less yard work to do.
Thanks to all that contributed to this thread.
^^^^
No question about it. With the vehicle 'level' there will always be about 5/8" of fluid in the bottom of the pan if you drain via the drain plug. The threaded boss stands above the bottom of the pan about that much.
