Transmission and Transfer Case Seals & Gaskets

[bb67tlc]

When I came into possession of this '67 beauty, which came with a large inventory of new SOR parts, it was clear that drivetrain leaks had to be addressed... for example:

The F engine and 3-speed transmission work great, just leaking, so I don't think they need to be disassembled, just separated. Hard to tell what all was leaking but I've got a complete set of gaskets and seals. I've succeeded in replacing the engine front seal and gasket but wonder how difficult a job it is to do the transfer case and tranny seals and gaskets. Other than the difficulty of stabbing the unit back into the engine (changing the rear seal and freeze plugs first... probably do the clutch while I'm there), how big a job is it? I'm reasonably handy- at least taking things apart- Getting it back together is another question.

But, while I was pondering doing real work, I cleaned it all up... almost as satisfying as making it work better!

Thanks

 

[reddingcruiser]

Going through the FJ40 t-case and tranny to replace gaskets is not that difficult with a FSM, some basic tools, a pull scale and patience. Add a hydraulic press and replacing the t-case bearings is pretty easy.

Two of the t-case gaskets you'll be replacing are part of the components maintaining the bearing preload on the main shaft bearings. Those would be the 'nose cone' and rear cover/speedo gear housing gaskets. While in theory simply replacing the gaskets should have little effect, Murphy's Law often comes into play. You'll probably want to look over all of the bearings and make a decision whether or not to replace them. If the t-case has never been touched odds are there is little, if any, preload left. This means you'll need to decide to either replace the bearings or run the old ones. Either way you'll be resetting the preload.

 

[reddingcruiser]

If, in your pile of Spector parts you have a t-case rebuild kit, I would go for it. Looking at your pictures, you may never this far into your 40 for a long time and it's a LOT easier doing this job with the access you have now!

 

[bb67tlc]

Thanks Dick,
I don't have the rebuild kit, just the gasket and seal set. I'll start into it. One clue that work has been done on it before is that the castle nut on the rear output is bigger than 27mm, which I read is what it should be and what the differentials are. It's 28 or 29, so perhaps DIN and a replacement from some point. Anyway, I'll go slow since I have the time- body work is scheduled for May!

 

[CHCP]

That's are real fine job of cleaning your tranny and t-case, I've a 63 on a bench and its taking a long time cleaning
any short-cuts you'd pass along. Somewhere on mud I saw something about using plastic straws in a drill chuck, but
i've not tried it.

 

[bb67tlc]

Hey CHCP, after spraying and scrubbing with SuperGunk/MineralSpirits, I used a pressure washer (sealed the air breathers), then some SuperClean purple soap, then a scotchbrite wheel in my drill... and then a dental tool! It was filthy. Oh, I did use a little oven cleaner but realized there was aluminum so washed that off quickly. Then a little two-part Eastwood engine paint. My favorite part was taking a picture of the yellow stenciled "R2" on the side of the tranny and recreating that-

 

[MScruiser]

What is the significance of the R2?

I just redid my drivetrain; wondering if I should do it too?

 

[MScruiser]

That's are real fine job of cleaning your tranny and t-case, I've a 63 on a bench and its taking a long time cleaning
any short-cuts you'd pass along. Somewhere on mud I saw something about using plastic straws in a drill chuck, but
i've not tried it.

I soaked mine in Superclean, then power washed off. Then hit it with a wire wheel for the thick stubborn stuff.

Then sealed off the orafices, and hit it with the sand blaster. Came out very very clean.

 

[bb67tlc]

That's a beautiful thing- now I'm going to have to go polish mine some more! No idea what the R2 means- it was just there when I got it.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Loking good. Now is definitely the time to replace the seals on engine, trans, t-case.
FWIW, The flange nuts are a bastard 29mm hex on pre JIS trucks.

 

[CHCP]

wow, after seeing these two transmissions and t cases I've got my work cut out for me, lets see if I can
compete. I was thinking about pressure washing but know that the gaskets and seals on my rig need to be replaced, its
a good bet if you had seen the rear main seal, i did not want to force water into the casings.

I think there should be a forum post just about cleaned running gear!!
You guys should definitely post your pics...good jobs.

 

[velillen]

Just leave the T-case/transmission assembled when you power wash and it should be just fine. Even better if you leave it filled with oil. Just don't power wash directly at the gasket areas if you think/know you have a leak. Then just pick up the units, cycle everything a bit to coat it in gear oil and drain. Any water that got in will be flushed out with the oil. Assuming you have just the typical home owner pressure washer that is. It its one of those 3k+ PSI ones I wouldn't do it.

Cleaning mine hasn't been that bad either. I found the T-case was mostly just caked with dirt and grease and was easy to clean up. Same with the transmission. I used a wire wheel attached to my cordless drill to clean it up and it works great at removing the dirt/grease/any minor rust. Then just some small brushes to clean the crevices.

 

[CHCP]

That sounds pretty easy but here in Maine if you leave a wet (water) exposed metal part for a couple of days it will rust.
Is it like that in Washington state? We always look to buy used vehicles from the west here.

 

[velillen]

That sounds pretty easy but here in Maine if you leave a wet (water) exposed metal part for a couple of days it will rust.
Is it like that in Washington state? We always look to buy used vehicles from the west here.

I didnt mean to say leave it wet. Power wash it then dry it off. Followed by draining the oil.

We dont have quite the same rust issues as the east coast. A lot of it comes from us not having the salt on the roads. Wet parts will rust. How fast in comparison I have no idea.

 

[CHCP]

Rust is certainly an issue here, I have to put all my inventory in sealed baggies.
I'm thinking that once the aluminum on my t-case is cleaned, rinse it with acetone and cover
it with VHT clear coating.

 

[Boaf 32]

Nice thread. Just was wondering how to replace the seal behind the e-Brake. Have a significant leak there. I cannot get the e-brake bolt off though. Thoughts gents?

Boaf

 

[middlecalf]

I thought it was L2

Old thread lol

 

[jvincig01]

Nice thread. Just was wondering how to replace the seal behind the e-Brake. Have a significant leak there. I cannot get the e-brake bolt off though. Thoughts gents?

Boaf

There is a thread on this I believe in the FAQ’s. Might want to do a double seal while you’re in there. I believe @65swb45 sells what you need.

 

[BRODYUSMC]

When I came into possession of this '67 beauty, which came with a large inventory of new SOR parts, it was clear that drivetrain leaks had to be addressed... for example:

View attachment 1334285

The F engine and 3-speed transmission work great, just leaking, so I don't think they need to be disassembled, just separated. Hard to tell what all was leaking but I've got a complete set of gaskets and seals. I've succeeded in replacing the engine front seal and gasket but wonder how difficult a job it is to do the transfer case and tranny seals and gaskets. Other than the difficulty of stabbing the unit back into the engine (changing the rear seal and freeze plugs first... probably do the clutch while I'm there), how big a job is it? I'm reasonably handy- at least taking things apart- Getting it back together is another question.

But, while I was pondering doing real work, I cleaned it all up... almost as satisfying as making it work better!

View attachment 1334600

Thanks

Did you have a vacuum shift transfer case in this pic? it looks like you changed it. in the pics where its clean. I cant get my linkage to stay tight when I go from low to high. I cannot find replacements either.

 

[sproggy]

Rust is certainly an issue here, I have to put all my inventory in sealed baggies.
I'm thinking that once the aluminum on my t-case is cleaned, rinse it with acetone and cover
it with VHT clear coating.

Hey CHCP you're the guy I just bought the valve pushrod from....cool! Should be going in today. Thanks for the quick service. Sorry to hijack thread....