Transfer Case Tuneup and Fix (8 Viewers)

[cubaniche]

New one came in. Aisin part not toyota direct. Plugged it in, tested it and it worked flawlessly, confirming something is definitely wrong with mine. Took it apart, clocked it, put it back together, tested again, and worked great. So, going to go ahead and disassemble the old one like in the video, leaving the rods in place, and using this new one. Never messed with the hi/low side of the actuator so I'll have to familiarize myself with the clocking of that one since I sorta never paid too much attention to that portion of the video...

Oh, and the microswitch of this new one seems exactly like my old one. Springy, no click. So, I don't know what the heck is up with the old one.

 

[linuxgod]

Make sure the truck is in neutral when pushing the transfer case rod fully in.

Like I said before I had similar issues so I feel your pain. Hopefully this swap works for ya.

 

[cubaniche]

Make sure the truck is in neutral when pushing the transfer case rod fully in.

Like I said before I had similar issues so I feel your pain. Hopefully this swap works for ya.

For sure. Did a lot of pushing the truck four or five foot forward and backwards a lot by hand while in neutral when troubleshooting this whole thing, several times. In doing so, I was able to learn what the full stroke of the rod looked like inside the actuator. From what I understand, putting it back together, both rods need to be pushed all the way into the t-case.

 

[linuxgod]

For sure. Did a lot of pushing the truck four or five foot forward and backwards a lot by hand while in neutral when troubleshooting this whole thing, several times. In doing so, I was able to learn what the full stroke of the rod looked like inside the actuator. From what I understand, putting it back together, both rods need to be pushed all the way into the t-case.

Yes they should be pushed fully into the t-case*

*coming from the guy who had issues with reassembly, so take it with a grain of salt

 

[cubaniche]

Just wanted to update everyone that's been replying and being helpful. Due to the very odd nature of my issue, which is that the actuator tries to engage the CDL immediately upon startup, I decided against trying to keep messing with it myself. Even with the actuator sitting outside of the tcase, turning the vehicle power on results in it immediately activating the CDL.
So, I decided to just have it replaced the right way, with a completely new actuator that hadn't been disassembled by me (I exchanged the old-new one for a new new one lol), and took the truck to a trusted Toyota off road/service shop. They did the job the right way by removing the tcase etc etc.

The issue of the actuator immediately locking the diff upon startup remains. However, I can press the button and disengage it. I'm leaving for a trip on Monday, so I couldn't spare the additional time the shop requested to continue diagnosing what he believes now to be a possible grounding problem. He had the LX for two days and tried replacing the button and even the 4wd ecu just in case those might be at fault. He just needs more time with the truck than I can spare right now. Being that I can actually disengage the CDL now, reliably, I'm going on my trip. I'll bring it back to him when we get back to give him time to continue diagnosis. Suffice to say it would seem that my situation is a fringe case of the issue actually being wiring related.

It would make sense since I know I clocked the gears exactly like in the video but no matter what I did, it would self-actuate upon startup. To add, I know I was clocking things correctly because I had taken apart the 4hi/lo side of things and clocked it when installing the new components from the new-old actuator and it worked flawlessly just as expected. But the cdl continued to self lock upon startup. So, there you go. More to my story I suppose. I'll update if we ever get to the bottom of it. Thanks for all the replies!

 

[mark71]

Just wanted to update everyone that's been replying and being helpful. Due to the very odd nature of my issue, which is that the actuator tries to engage the CDL immediately upon startup, I decided against trying to keep messing with it myself. Even with the actuator sitting outside of the tcase, turning the vehicle power on results in it immediately activating the CDL.
So, I decided to just have it replaced the right way, with a completely new actuator that hadn't been disassembled by me (I exchanged the old-new one for a new new one lol), and took the truck to a trusted Toyota off road/service shop. They did the job the right way by removing the tcase etc etc.

The issue of the actuator immediately locking the diff upon startup remains. However, I can press the button and disengage it. I'm leaving for a trip on Monday, so I couldn't spare the additional time the shop requested to continue diagnosing what he believes now to be a possible grounding problem. He had the LX for two days and tried replacing the button and even the 4wd ecu just in case those might be at fault. He just needs more time with the truck than I can spare right now. Being that I can actually disengage the CDL now, reliably, I'm going on my trip. I'll bring it back to him when we get back to give him time to continue diagnosis. Suffice to say it would seem that my situation is a fringe case of the issue actually being wiring related.

It would make sense since I know I clocked the gears exactly like in the video but no matter what I did, it would self-actuate upon startup. To add, I know I was clocking things correctly because I had taken apart the 4hi/lo side of things and clocked it when installing the new components from the new-old actuator and it worked flawlessly just as expected. But the cdl continued to self lock upon startup. So, there you go. More to my story I suppose. I'll update if we ever get to the bottom of it. Thanks for all the replies!

I almost wish mine did that so that I wouldn’t forget to exercise it periodically to prevent sticking.

 

[TaishoCruiser]

I almost wish mine did that so that I wouldn’t forget to exercise it periodically to prevent sticking.

That would be a nice option for a few of us who like to head off road but don't always have a regularly schedule chance to play in the dirt. The average driver would probably complain about having to mess with it. Sera sera .

 

[vought]

New one came in. Aisin part not toyota direct. Plugged it in, tested it and it worked flawlessly, confirming something is definitely wrong with mine. Took it apart, clocked it, put it back together, tested again, and worked great. So, going to go ahead and disassemble the old one like in the video, leaving the rods in place, and using this new one. Never messed with the hi/low side of the actuator so I'll have to familiarize myself with the clocking of that one since I sorta never paid too much attention to that portion of the video...

Oh, and the microswitch of this new one seems exactly like my old one. Springy, no click. So, I don't know what the heck is up with the old one.

Did you happen to notice a difference in the Hi/Lo engagement half of the system?

I'm just installing a new Toyota/Lexus part, and notice that _there's no microswitch_ on the new part. The reason I bought it was to replace my old one on which I'd broken the microswitch.

This makes me curious if they've switched to a Hall effect sensor instead of a microswitch to increase reliability, and whether I should just go ahead with the install or freak out.

 

[vought]

Here's the old part from my 2008 LX at the bottom, with the new Toyota/Lexus part at the top. Same in all other aspects, but no microswitch.

 

[grinchy]

Here's the old part from my 2008 LX at the bottom, with the new Toyota/Lexus part at the top. Same in all other aspects, but no microswitch.View attachment 3698308

I see some other differences

There is a different pin count in the connector, for example

 

[vought]

I see some other differences

There is a different pin count in the connector, for example

Good catch...I suspect the part number I have is for some newer model though it was listed for 2008. This case is identical except for having a microswitch and associated pinouts.

Looking back through the posts here, I don't see a definite match for the microswitch. Anyone manage to scrounge that?

 

[cubaniche]

Did you happen to notice a difference in the Hi/Lo engagement half of the system?

I'm just installing a new Toyota/Lexus part, and notice that _there's no microswitch_ on the new part. The reason I bought it was to replace my old one on which I'd broken the microswitch.

This makes me curious if they've switched to a Hall effect sensor instead of a microswitch to increase reliability, and whether I should just go ahead with the install or freak out.

The hi/lo on my 14 didn't have a microswitch. It's like your newer one. The equivalent part for my model year direct from Aisin was the same. But there's still a microswitch in the locker side of things.

 

[vought]

The hi/lo on my 14 didn't have a microswitch. It's like your newer one. The equivalent part for my model year direct from Aisin was the same. But there's still a microswitch in the locker side of things.

Thanks for the speedy and helpful reply; I've nailed it down to exactly that. The eBay seller from Japan had the part listed as a 2008, so I snapped it up. I think I can effect a half-assed fix, since the mounts are still there; I can get the signal to the pin.

I think my diff lock is exactly like yours, but I may be a tooth or two off. The 4lo engagement stops between the low and high range cogs, but if I leave it in high, it's fine, and it switches back from the non-engagement state easily, so at least the root cause is addressed.

Found the problem; 0102 versus 0120. :-(

 

[Vasiliy]

Hello. is it possible to remove the transfer case without lowering too low or dropping transmission? I don't know if there is enough space to unscrew 2 top bolts

 

[linuxgod]

Hello. is it possible to remove the transfer case without lowering too low or dropping transmission? I don't know if there is enough space to unscrew 2 top bolts

Yes. Not sure how but the shop that replaced my actuator did not remove the transmission.

 

[Vasiliy]

Yes. Not sure how but the shop that replaced my actuator did not remove the transmission.

Half part of the transfer case can be removed separately, I know, but I want to remove the transfer case together and install a "new one".

I'm asking because transmission jack lift tool, I think I need at least 2 for support trans and lifting transfer case, pretty cost, wish I could use only one

 

[uclafan]

I have a similar issue that is described here, the flashing CDL light would come on periodically on a 2013 LC. Using one of the many videos available on the topic I removed the top cap of the actuator to place more of the yellow grease on contact spots that was the culprit for the high electrical resistance. I didn't realize until I placed the assembly back together that I broke the CDL position switch (the broken piece can be seen in the photo). From this forum, it appears the only option is to purchase a new actuator since no one has been able to find this switch. I have one on order and I was thinking of removing the top from the new actuator and installing it on the old assembly. The car has been in CA for most of its life so the dreaded corrosion that is seen on other vehicles is not present here.

However, in reading through this thread it seems like even if I was able to remove the top and install it without damaging the CDL position switch (no 1 in the diagram), it sounds like there may still be issues with the CDL light flashing due to incorrect clocking of the motor? While I'm hesitant to pull the new actuator apart due to the previous experience, the thought of having to put this on and off due to the position issue on the motor has me thinking differently. I have a shop that I trust to do the job (I'm guessing they'll just go with the option of installing a new actuator rather than risk damaging the internals), but wanted to check with the collective wisdom of this group before I did so.

I too am frustrated by how complicated Toyota has made this issue, both in terms of the lack of availability of the microswitch and other parts. Thank you in advance for any thoughts that you might have.

 

[cubaniche]

I have a similar issue that is described here, the flashing CDL light would come on periodically on a 2013 LC. Using one of the many videos available on the topic I removed the top cap of the actuator to place more of the yellow grease on contact spots that was the culprit for the high electrical resistance. I didn't realize until I placed the assembly back together that I broke the CDL position switch (the broken piece can be seen in the photo). From this forum, it appears the only option is to purchase a new actuator since no one has been able to find this switch. I have one on order and I was thinking of removing the top from the new actuator and installing it on the old assembly. The car has been in CA for most of its life so the dreaded corrosion that is seen on other vehicles is not present here.

However, in reading through this thread it seems like even if I was able to remove the top and install it without damaging the CDL position switch (no 1 in the diagram), it sounds like there may still be issues with the CDL light flashing due to incorrect clocking of the motor? While I'm hesitant to pull the new actuator apart due to the previous experience, the thought of having to put this on and off due to the position issue on the motor has me thinking differently. I have a shop that I trust to do the job (I'm guessing they'll just go with the option of installing a new actuator rather than risk damaging the internals), but wanted to check with the collective wisdom of this group before I did so.

I too am frustrated by how complicated Toyota has made this issue, both in terms of the lack of availability of the microswitch and other parts. Thank you in advance for any thoughts that you might have.

View attachment 3717684View attachment 3717685View attachment 3717678

I don't have any additional input other than what I've recently posted. My issue seems to be completely different than others in that I replaced the actuator with a brand new one (the right way with a professional toyota tech by pulling the tcase apart) and the problem persisted. This was after splitting the actuator, cleaning it, and reclocking a million times. I'm now confident that my reclocking was on point and had I not had this other root cause (still to be determined what that actually is) it would have worked like everyone else did. Still need to investigate the wiring and check to see if it has a bad ground somewhere on the chassis.

 

[TeCKis300]

I'll emphasize that it's super important to regularly exercise the transfer case locking and low range functions. 4 years later after some TLC of this mechanism, and regular off-roading use, it's working great. Just did another long weekend of wheeling and it works every time on queue. No winter flashing symptoms. This is a long term fix along with "lifestyle" changes. Use it or lose it applies here.

 

[uclafan]

I'll emphasize that it's super important to regularly exercise the transfer case locking and low range functions. 4 years later after some TLC of this mechanism, and regular off-roading use, it's working great. Just did another long weekend of wheeling and it works every time on queue. No winter flashing symptoms. This is a long term fix along with "lifestyle" changes. Use it or lose it applies here.

Good advice and one that I will remember after this lesson. It's also a good excuse to take the rig off-roading regularly at the same time.