Transfer case shifter FJ40

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Joined
Jan 4, 2011
Threads
13
Messages
73
Location
Anna, Texas
I bought an FJ a few months ago, vehicle was completely dis-assembled and in boxes. I've got most of the drivetrain together but ran into a problem with the transfer case shifter. It bolts in and hooks up to the transfer case gear selector ok, but does not reach out far enough to connect to the 4wd selector shaft. Someone told me that maybe I had a 3 speed tc shifter and I need a 4 speed one? Are the shifters for the tc's different according to the transmissions? I've got a 4 speed tranny, but I think the guy I bought it from says that I have a 3 speed transfer case? Any help would be appreciated!
 
Here is mine I recently sold. Maybe the pictures would help. This is 100% speed trans and transfer case.
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transfer case shifter

That actually helps a bunch. I'm missing the link that goes to the gear selector for one and it looks like my shifter is actually to long and doesn't go down far enough to hit the 4wd selector shaft. The question is: What shifter do I have and which one do I need?SprintPhoto_bkpwkz.webp

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Took a few days to fight the blizzard like conditions to my barn. Ha, anyway, here are some more pics. Any ideas?
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Just observation: your bell housing has been changed from cast iron to an aluminum one(not stock), your transmission, from what I can see of it looks like a GM type, looks like you have twin sticks mounted on the side of the transmission(not stock) and you have an added brace (possibly Advanced adapters type) mounted on the back of your transfercase connecting it to the frame. Stock transmission/transfercases were only connected to the cast iron bell housing. Your slave cylinder and clutch arm are on the opposite side of my 68, is this a left hand drive model?
 
Looks like a modded OEM/twinstick cobble on a non-Toyota transmission.
 
Yes, it is a left hand drive model. That's an AA bell housing and from what I"m told the rear mount is AA as well. The tranny is a Toyota 4 speed. The motor is a 350.
 
My best guess is that you've gor a three speed shifter mounted on a four speed transmission. I always thought they were the same, but that one is sitting too far over because of it's mounting. I think you'll either need to find 74 or newer four speed linkages or some sort of twin stick setup.
 
that looks like a 3spd setup you need the later 4spd transfer case hi -low - 4wd
shift thingy on the side of your front output of the t-case to fit the 4spd linkage.

see pic the shaft is longer . if you have to change the linkage on the side of the t-case you might need the t-case top plate there aswell
the rod fits on at a different angle to that one you are showing in your pic above

see red circle of rod in my pic the flat spot is in a different spot also to your t-case


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It looks like a 3sp transfer case. I've rebuild a few, but only the ones with the vacuum engagement for the front drive shaft. You could call the guys at SOR.
 
PBGbottle, this is an old thread but I'm just in the process of cleaning and lubricating my transmission/transfer linkage which weren't working, frozen. In the picture you have above, the rod in the red circle, that should move in and out, correct? I have my linkage taken apart as I clean it and while it is out I would like to make sure that rod will move if it indeed should move. Should I be able to move it with my bare hands or does it take quite a lot of force/leverage to move it?
Thanks so much, sproggy.
 
Thanks Pbg I have a couple more questions for you if you don't mind. I took off the part in the red circle in your photo, the one you said should move but doesn't. Mine is indeed frozen and after taking it all apart and cleaning it I have it sitting in some lubricant hoping to free it up. I can turn it by putting some vice grips on the end of the rod but it is still very tough and nothing doing in trying to get it to slide up and down. Incidentally, when I took off it was dry, no transfer case oil came out. Is that normal? I must say, on one hand, I was quite happy no oil came out. ...would have been a mess and I hate the smell of that stuff. On the other hand, certainly don't want to think I was running around all this time with no oil. I'm thinking maybe it only gets lubed when in use and having sat for so many years surely it would be easy to freeze up. Oh, another question: the bell housing has cut-outs on both sides of it for the clutch throw out bearing/fork. Should there be a cover over the one not in use? I never thought about it before since mine never had one but dirt must get into the clutch without one...
Thanks, Sproggy
 
Sproggy, the t-case shift linkage is lubed by 90wt gear oil being thrown around inside the t-case. The shifter is slightly above the normal oil level. Check the t-case oil level at the level plug on the back of the case.

If the case has sat for a long time, the steel shift rod will seize in the aluminum case. Completely dismantle the shift assembly, then sand/wirewheel the rust off the shaft. Smear everything with grease and reassemble. Replace the rotten rubber external boot to keep the road salt off the shift shaft. It will shift like butter then.

Yes, there is a cover that goes on the unused BH hole. Early trucks use a metal louver, 75-later BH uses a snap in rubber vent.
 
Hi Jim,
Thanks....Ya, I have pulled all that linkage apart and scraped it/sanded it/lubed it and put it back together. That includes the steel shift rod assembly. After my working on it, it moved well, a little less so once I put the steel ball bearing and spring back in and tightened up the bolt. Well, now all is back in place and the linkage is real smooth except I can see that steel shift rod won't go into the second position (the seat for the ball bearing). I think at this point the problem is in the transfer case which hasn't spun for a long time, does that make sense? Or else I just need to turn the engine on so I can put it in gear a bit and see if the shifter will slide. Gotcha on the plug on the back of the t-case. I'll be filling it first thing tomorrow and see what happens. Yup, my boot was totally rotten. Gonna have to buy one of them, I suppose. What are your thoughts on the internal rubber ring where the steel shift rod goes in? I didn't change it, nor the fibrous cork colored ring gasket that sits right above it. I noticed they were both a little damaged but....I crossed my fingers and used 'em anyways. I suppose it's easy enough to take out that part and change it if it really becomes a problem.
I'm thinking of just cutting a piece of metal or rubber myself for the bell housing. What do you think? Seems easy enough and no one can see it anyway!
 
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