BullElk
SILVER Star
What about 2001-2004 ?? Either seal?
Transfer case rear output shaft oil seal and bearing removal and installation
- Thread starter nissanh
- Start date
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I would enter VIN to find out.
Did this over the course of the last week. Pretty straightforward job, thanks for the writeup.
I've had a drip for about a year now, have been refilling the transfer case at my oil changes, but this past change it took over a quart of fluid so, it was time.
Since I have a two post lift and a shop press, that part was easy, but I had a decent amount of trouble with the Bearing retainer C-Clip. What did you guys use to get that one out? I just pried it out with a screwdriver and kind of bent it up a little. Ended up ordering new ones, since there's both an A and a B version of them. My 2001 used an A.
Part Numbers:
90521-84002 and 90521-84003. I would order those too just in case if you are buying the bearing and the seal. They are $4 each.
My bearing wasn't bad for 240k either. My case also needed a little persuasion with a brass bar but once it broke it was smooth coming off. The seal was TOAST. Dry and brittle.
Again - thanks for the write up. Probably saved 1k at the shop for this work.
I've had a drip for about a year now, have been refilling the transfer case at my oil changes, but this past change it took over a quart of fluid so, it was time.
Since I have a two post lift and a shop press, that part was easy, but I had a decent amount of trouble with the Bearing retainer C-Clip. What did you guys use to get that one out? I just pried it out with a screwdriver and kind of bent it up a little. Ended up ordering new ones, since there's both an A and a B version of them. My 2001 used an A.
Part Numbers:
90521-84002 and 90521-84003. I would order those too just in case if you are buying the bearing and the seal. They are $4 each.
My bearing wasn't bad for 240k either. My case also needed a little persuasion with a brass bar but once it broke it was smooth coming off. The seal was TOAST. Dry and brittle.
Again - thanks for the write up. Probably saved 1k at the shop for this work.
Thanks for the write up!!
Went as expected except I had a BEAR of a time getting the speedo gear off. Super tight. Had to knock it back on with a brass drift.
Went as expected except I had a BEAR of a time getting the speedo gear off. Super tight. Had to knock it back on with a brass drift.
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
Just finished buttoning this up last night. This thread and the videos by Timmy the Toolman were very helpful.
forum.ih8mud.com
Transfer Case Rebuild & Modification (Low & High Range Gears & Part Time 4wd Kit)
Hey Dudes, I was lucky enough to partner with an expert in the industry to bring you guys a 4-Part series showing how to rebuild and modify the HF2AV transfer case. The expert I'm talking about is Georg Esterer @orangefj45 who owns Valley Hybrids in Stockton, California. Georg's Valley Hybrids...
forum.ih8mud.com
I cannot abide a LEAKER..
Chalk another one up to success from a great DIY how to! Thanks nissanh. I’ve done a lot of wrenching, but the super glue technique was a new one to me. I was actually surprised how stuck together metal on metal was with it! You do need to concentrate on gluing those shims in, as close as you can, to the wear marks on the housing. When you tighten up the housing, do it in a criss cross fashion slowly, the shims will pop loose, and find their own way. I always used wheel bearing grease for things like this, but the cyanoacrylate worked very well. Make sure to clean the shims and surfaces on the housing well before you apply the super glue (i used denatured alcohol).
i blanked out on using the old bearing to drive in the oil seal. i was, ‘why is he trying to install the bearing that way, it won’t go in…. duhh. i’ve done this before, like using an old bearing race, to drive in the new one. i used a small punch, with some tape on the end, and lightly tapped the seal into place, it’s an interesting oil seal, but obvious what is in and out.. look at your old seal for reference. a few semi-hard taps to know it’s seated.
I would also recommend using the Toyota FIPG made for the purpose, that stuff is amazing.
A big thank you to this group. Made this job a lot easier!
Chalk another one up to success from a great DIY how to! Thanks nissanh. I’ve done a lot of wrenching, but the super glue technique was a new one to me. I was actually surprised how stuck together metal on metal was with it! You do need to concentrate on gluing those shims in, as close as you can, to the wear marks on the housing. When you tighten up the housing, do it in a criss cross fashion slowly, the shims will pop loose, and find their own way. I always used wheel bearing grease for things like this, but the cyanoacrylate worked very well. Make sure to clean the shims and surfaces on the housing well before you apply the super glue (i used denatured alcohol).
i blanked out on using the old bearing to drive in the oil seal. i was, ‘why is he trying to install the bearing that way, it won’t go in…. duhh. i’ve done this before, like using an old bearing race, to drive in the new one. i used a small punch, with some tape on the end, and lightly tapped the seal into place, it’s an interesting oil seal, but obvious what is in and out.. look at your old seal for reference. a few semi-hard taps to know it’s seated.
I would also recommend using the Toyota FIPG made for the purpose, that stuff is amazing.
A big thank you to this group. Made this job a lot easier!
Last edited:
Big thanks to @nissanh for the amazing write up here. I’ve been tracking down a highway speed driveline vibration that has been driving me crazy. After seeing @LJE find a very bad bearing in his TC, I thought I might have one too.
Took it all apart and my bearing was fine. Maybe a teeny tiny bit worse than the brand new bearing I put in, but nothing like what @LJE had. Oh well, at least there is a new bearing and seal in there now. Went around and drove it after and sadly my vibration is still there.
It was interesting reading issues others dealt with for this job. With a pry bar I was able to use the little tabs to get the housing off which was nice. And the retainer clip pliers I bought for the CV axles worked fine for the first two clips. I thankfully also had no issues just sliding the speedometer gear off the shaft.
For the final clip holding the bearing I used the two screw driver trick that @orangefj45 talked about in the great series of videos that he filmed with @Timmy65. If you are a little nervous about this job, those videos are nice to watch even though they are doing WAY more work there.
My two challenging points:
Took it all apart and my bearing was fine. Maybe a teeny tiny bit worse than the brand new bearing I put in, but nothing like what @LJE had. Oh well, at least there is a new bearing and seal in there now. Went around and drove it after and sadly my vibration is still there.
It was interesting reading issues others dealt with for this job. With a pry bar I was able to use the little tabs to get the housing off which was nice. And the retainer clip pliers I bought for the CV axles worked fine for the first two clips. I thankfully also had no issues just sliding the speedometer gear off the shaft.
For the final clip holding the bearing I used the two screw driver trick that @orangefj45 talked about in the great series of videos that he filmed with @Timmy65. If you are a little nervous about this job, those videos are nice to watch even though they are doing WAY more work there.
My two challenging points:
- Main Shaft: Hammering the main shaft out of the bearing took more work than what I had seen in some other videos. I really had to get on it with a brass drift, but it did pop out
- Shims: I was nervous as heck with the super glue holding the shims in place. I love the idea of this trick. But I was just so nervous they were going to fall as I was putting the housing back on. I’m assuming had I not gotten them lined up just right, there is no way the case would seal up right? Even though those shims aren’t very thick, I’m assuming had they shifted down, the case would have had a crack at the bottom?
