Transfer case rear output shaft oil seal and bearing removal and installation (2 Viewers)

[nissanh]

Disclaimer: Author is NOT responsible for any problems that you may run into. This is Demonstration purposes ONLY.

Special Thanks to 2001 LC in the forum

Parts needed:
Oil seal and Bearing (USE OEM only: MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL BOTH)
Bearing $ 40.00
Oil Seal $ 20.00

FIPG (I used TOYOTA Black)

Tools:
Goggles
24 mm box socket to remove the drain plug to drain oil: (Hint: first loosen the fill plug)
12 mm and 14 mm 6 sided box sockets.
Extensions
Scraper to scrape off oil gasket material
Mallet hammer (Never a metal hammer)

Start the truck and drive the rear driver (Left) side wheel onto a sturdy 4-5 inch thick solid wooden block. Support the lifted side of the rear axle with a jack stand.
Apply the park brake and choke at least 2 wheels that are on the ground

Disconnect the negative terminal and allow the exhaust to cool before sliding under the truck.

Disconnect the wire clips attached to the transfer case (TC) rear housing extension [there are 2 on the top: 1 at the drive shaft flange: speedo sensor]
Remove the 12 mm ground wire
Remove the Drive shaft with 14 mm 6 sided box socket. Put all 4 nuts back on to the bolts to prevent any damages to the threads during the repair

Loosen the nine 14 mm bolts holding the rear axle housing to the TC and mark its locations (Use a cardboard to secure the locations). There are two sizes. 4 bolts are about 3 inches long (all on the left side) and the rest is about 5 inches long (right side)

Pry the housing gently. It came off very easily. Be ready to catch oil.

You will also see 4 shims (I had 4: 2 small for the oil pump and 2 bigger for differential bearing)
Also note the oil pump drive (located in the middle of the 2 small shims). Most likely it will come with the housing. Quickly mark its orientation to make your installation easy.

 

[nissanh]

Now remove the three 10 mm bolts

You can now turn the top plate in either direction. Turn it about 20 degrees in either direction.
Find an Allen key that will fit into the 3 holes opened by removing the 3 10 mm bolts

Wrap some electrical tape around the Allen key so that is will not fall into the unit.

Attach a wise grip to the Allen key and lift the top cover plate uniformly.

Notice the oil pump drive gear is removed in the 2nd picture

View attachment 1383037

View attachment 1383038

 

[nissanh]

Remove the circlip with the circlip remove plier (1st pic)

Remove the Speedo drive gear by removing the 12 mm bolt located outside the housing
Now remove the speedo drive gear (2 and 3rd pics)

Remove the circlip holding the shaft to the bearing with the circlip remove plier (4th pic)

Remove the circlip holding the housing to the bearing to the (5th Pic)

 

[nissanh]

All removed parts are shown in the 1st picture (the oil pump drive gear is shown left to the three 10 mm bolts)

Use a wooden block and the mallet drive the shaft out (DO DONT damage the tube in the middle of the shaft)

old Oil seal

 

[nissanh]

Removed shaft shown

Removal of the oil seal (2nd picture)

Bearing removed (3rd picture)

New bearing and the housing and bearing snap ring installed ((4th Pic)

Driving in the New oil seal (5th Pic)

 

[nissanh]

I used a cardboard tube of a used paper towel roll to protect the shaft.
Using a 2-inch diameter metal tube (make sure it is exactly 2 or bit bigger) the shaft was driven into the bearing. I had the metal tube vertical and placed the housing+bearing on it. The inner cone of the bearing is directly resting on the metal tube

I then placed the shaft into the bearing and then placed a wooden block on the drive shaft flange. With the mallet I drove the shaft into the bearing

Installed the shaft-bearing snap ring

Speedo drive gear installed

 

[nissanh]

Snap ring to retain the speedo gear installed (1st pic)

Locate the oil line in the housing (pointing at it, 2nd pic)

Also, locate the oil line in the top plate (Pointing at it, 3rd pic)

Remove oil inside the three 10 mm bolt holes (4th pic) Tighten the three 10 mm bolts to 43 INCH lbs

Secure the shims (5th pic: I used super glue: clean the surface with brake cleaner)
Also install the oil pump drive gear in the proper direction

 

[nissanh]

Apply the FIPG, and put the housing back on to the TC

Note the lengths of the 14 mm bolts and place them accordingly

Tighten the 14 mm bolts to 27 FOOT lbs

Install the drive shaft and attach all the wire plugs you removed.

Allow the FIPG to dry (I allowed overnight)

Fill it with 75-90 grade gear oil

Put back the battery wire.

I drove around a 1 block and CHECKED for any oil leaks.

Drive bit longer and check again for any leaks

 

[badlander]

Thanks, nissanh.
I'm glad to know this info is here in case I need to do this someday!

 

[AimCOtaco]

Very good write up, thanks @nissanh

I just finished doing this last night and just had a couple minor things to add:

-Vice grips work very well for reforming any bolt heads that may have been rock-modified so you can get a socket on them, the 3 that retain the little T-Case skid plate on mine were in really bad shape.

-My experience separating the case was a bit different, mine was just stuck badly and took a lot of work to ultimately separate using the cast on tabs for leverage. It was a real fight to get it off.

-Be careful that the large main bearing race (tapered roller, stays with the main case) does not slip out and fall to an untimely death. I was working in my driveway and noticed that the race was backing out and was lucky it didn't fall on the concrete or escape down the road. To aid final assembly I used a punch to create a tiny bur in the bore to retain the race that allowed me to place the large shims against the bearing race which saved super gluing them to the rear cover as nissanh did (either solution works well when doing this job with the T-Case in place) and kept the race from getting ejected.

The rear bearing that gets replaced in this process was in great shape on mine at almost 240,000 mi, the seal was not torn but had worn thin and was leaking periodically. I'm glad I won't be doing this job this winter or in camp it's better done patiently on the bench so good to have it wrapped up.

Thanks again

 

[Jefferdy]

THANK YOU for this writeup!!! While replacing my rear propeller shaft on my 98 LC, I found some prior clown had stripped one of the flange studs so it spins. After I get the damn thing out, I'm gonna have to order the parts to do this and some new flange studs to replace the old ones. SINCE replacing those studs means having to remove that flange, well, since I'm in there I might as well...

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Looks good. I am going to do this here shortly, +the front.

Front looks like a bit more to disassemble but it's my front that's leaking. Did some searching and fiddling on the parts websites, but struggling to find the front seal, dust deflector, and bearing numbers. anyone have them on hand?

 

[nissanh]

Looks good. I am going to do this here shortly, +the front.

Front looks like a bit more to disassemble but it's my front that's leaking. Did some searching and fiddling on the parts websites, but struggling to find the front seal, dust deflector, and bearing numbers. anyone have them on hand?

90311-50014 for oil seal

Go to partsouq.com and enter your vin
Then go to Power Train/Chassis
Next: Transfer case and extension housing.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

for whatever reason, the bearings and internals just aren't showing up anywhere... super strange, found the seals though!

Front dust deflector - extension	3332560050​
Front dust deflector - shaft	3332560040​
Front oil seal	9031150014​

Rear oil seal

9031148025​

 

[nissanh]

for whatever reason, the bearings and internals just aren't showing up anywhere... super strange, found the seals though!
View attachment 2241518

Front dust deflector - extension	3332560050​
Front dust deflector - shaft	3332560040​
Front oil seal	9031150014​

Rear oil seal

9031148025​

Send an email to partsouq with your vin and ask for their help.

 

[nissanh]

I think the bearing is 9036340044

See the next image "transfer gear" on partsouq website. Also email them to make sure you are buying the correct part.

 

[medtro]

Disclaimer: Author is NOT responsible for any problems that you may run into. This is Demonstration purposes ONLY.

Special Thanks to 2001 LC in the forum

Parts needed:
Oil seal and Bearing (USE OEM only: MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL BOTH)
Bearing $ 40.00
Oil Seal $ 20.00

FIPG (I used TOYOTA Black)

How good or bad is your old bearing?

 

[nissanh]

How good or bad is your old bearing?

It was not super bad and I did not see a large free play. Since I was there, I replaced it. I might still have that old bearing, will check tomorrow.

 

[BullElk]

Would this be the same issue? A different seal was suggested in my thread below.

Transfer case output seal (rear) ??

Would that be the name of this leaking part, perhaps? Thank you very much.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[medtro]

Would this be the same issue? A different seal was suggested in my thread below.

Transfer case output seal (rear) ??

Would that be the name of this leaking part, perhaps? Thank you very much.

forum.ih8mud.com

Yes, same issue.

According to Toyota:

• 90311-58008 for 1991-2004 LC
• 90311-58011 for 2001-2007 LC