I am considering getting a transfer case parking brake setup. I am looking at all pro and sky manufacturing. If anyone has any experience with either of these please chime in. Figured I ask here before spending the dough. Are they worth it. Thanks.
Transfer Case Parking Brake ??'s
- Thread starter Rooskey
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I have no brand-name experience, but I do have experience with the 40-series driveline e-brake, and here are my thoughts:
- Terrible for starting on a hill. Your brake is dragging at your t-case output, making it twice as hard to use the "e-brake trick" for getting going on a slope.
- leaky t-case means trouble. The output shaft seal on a t-case is prone to wear, and oil can leak out and slicken the parking disc. The AP setup is disc-style, so it may clean off easier, but I'm used to the parking "drum" which would trap water and oil for all eternity.
- Caliper: Jim Downey mentiond to me that he'd tried this setup before, and found that the available e-brake caliper options at the time were unsatisfactory. Cable-actuated, it had less grip than desirable, and the best bet was to add a mini master-cylinder and hydraulic caliper, which was prohibitivly expensive and overcomplicated. Since then, Allpro may have found a more suitable setup, I don't know.
- diameter worries:
I would worry about the large diameter of the disc becoming something damagable by obstacles - something the truck straddles, or something launched up by a tire. A nice kink in the disc could mean eating a caliper and bracket.
Other than that, I don't know. I think it's a neat idea, and I would advise PM-ing DNGSpot about his thoughts on his, as well as google the part to see if others have been satisfied with the product.
Good Luck!
- Terrible for starting on a hill. Your brake is dragging at your t-case output, making it twice as hard to use the "e-brake trick" for getting going on a slope.
- leaky t-case means trouble. The output shaft seal on a t-case is prone to wear, and oil can leak out and slicken the parking disc. The AP setup is disc-style, so it may clean off easier, but I'm used to the parking "drum" which would trap water and oil for all eternity.
- Caliper: Jim Downey mentiond to me that he'd tried this setup before, and found that the available e-brake caliper options at the time were unsatisfactory. Cable-actuated, it had less grip than desirable, and the best bet was to add a mini master-cylinder and hydraulic caliper, which was prohibitivly expensive and overcomplicated. Since then, Allpro may have found a more suitable setup, I don't know.
- diameter worries:
I would worry about the large diameter of the disc becoming something damagable by obstacles - something the truck straddles, or something launched up by a tire. A nice kink in the disc could mean eating a caliper and bracket.
Other than that, I don't know. I think it's a neat idea, and I would advise PM-ing DNGSpot about his thoughts on his, as well as google the part to see if others have been satisfied with the product.
Good Luck!
I've had an All-Pro one since they came out with it way back in... 2001 I think? The bellcrank bracket was about to rot off my horsecollar in my old '84 so I couldn't keep the OEM e-brake, it was really my only choice.
I also think it's the only choice if you have RDB, like I do, which is why it's on my current truck.
I disagree with some of your comments above, it works fine for hill starting, no difference. It has not caused my t-case to leak. The caliper is from a golf cart, and works well. I've never come close to hitting the disc on anything, the mechanism and my BudBuilt skidplate completely protect it.
The pad on my caliper is getting pretty worn, so I'll have to do something about it before I re-install again. As I understand it, you can't replace just the pad, you have to replace the entire caliper. My disc is also pretty rusty now. Actually my entire brake is rusty, I can't seem to keep it from rusting. By the time I replace the caliper and rotor, plus spend all the time sanding and painting it again (3rd time), I may just be better off getting a new one.
It's a pain to install. The rotor goes on the back side of the outlet flange, so you have to pull the flange off (new seal and stake nut required), then pry off the dust shield ring. Wrench access on all the bolts is a challenge. But it does hold well once you get it properly adjusted so it clamps well but doesn't rub on the rotor when released.
When applied, the truck won't sit dead still, you can still rock the truck back and forth due to the slop in the driveline behind the t-case. And, if you lift one rear tire up in the air, it's no longer a brake, the other tire just spins (unless you can lock the rear diff).
I also think it's the only choice if you have RDB, like I do, which is why it's on my current truck.
I disagree with some of your comments above, it works fine for hill starting, no difference. It has not caused my t-case to leak. The caliper is from a golf cart, and works well. I've never come close to hitting the disc on anything, the mechanism and my BudBuilt skidplate completely protect it.
The pad on my caliper is getting pretty worn, so I'll have to do something about it before I re-install again. As I understand it, you can't replace just the pad, you have to replace the entire caliper. My disc is also pretty rusty now. Actually my entire brake is rusty, I can't seem to keep it from rusting. By the time I replace the caliper and rotor, plus spend all the time sanding and painting it again (3rd time), I may just be better off getting a new one.
It's a pain to install. The rotor goes on the back side of the outlet flange, so you have to pull the flange off (new seal and stake nut required), then pry off the dust shield ring. Wrench access on all the bolts is a challenge. But it does hold well once you get it properly adjusted so it clamps well but doesn't rub on the rotor when released.
When applied, the truck won't sit dead still, you can still rock the truck back and forth due to the slop in the driveline behind the t-case. And, if you lift one rear tire up in the air, it's no longer a brake, the other tire just spins (unless you can lock the rear diff).
Im going with the SKY manu. rear disc set-up and cadilac calipers...little more $$ but a lot easier to upkeep/maintain
my 2c
my 2c
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I'm honestly glad you were able to speak on this KLF, because you do have firsthand experience with one of the named products. This kit sounds alot better than the 40-series setup, of the lame MAF setup.
I've had an All-Pro one since they came out with it way back in... 2001 I think? The bellcrank bracket was about to rot off my horsecollar in my old '84 so I couldn't keep the OEM e-brake, it was really my only choice.
I also think it's the only choice if you have RDB, like I do, which is why it's on my current truck.
I disagree with some of your comments above, it works fine for hill starting, no difference. It has not caused my t-case to leak. The caliper is from a golf cart, and works well. I've never come close to hitting the disc on anything, the mechanism and my BudBuilt skidplate completely protect it.
The pad on my caliper is getting pretty worn, so I'll have to do something about it before I re-install again. As I understand it, you can't replace just the pad, you have to replace the entire caliper. My disc is also pretty rusty now. Actually my entire brake is rusty, I can't seem to keep it from rusting. By the time I replace the caliper and rotor, plus spend all the time sanding and painting it again (3rd time), I may just be better off getting a new one.
It's a pain to install. The rotor goes on the back side of the outlet flange, so you have to pull the flange off (new seal and stake nut required), then pry off the dust shield ring. Wrench access on all the bolts is a challenge. But it does hold well once you get it properly adjusted so it clamps well but doesn't rub on the rotor when released.
When applied, the truck won't sit dead still, you can still rock the truck back and forth due to the slop in the driveline behind the t-case. And, if you lift one rear tire up in the air, it's no longer a brake, the other tire just spins (unless you can lock the rear diff).
- Thread starter
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KLF would you say that your parking brake holds better or worse than stock? And im guessing that if your in fourwheel drive that it wouldnt matter if only one wheel was off the ground? Glad you posted that pic I just ordered my budbuilt skid!!
Caddy calipers: I investigated these, I even bought a pair (I also have Sky brackets). I could tell that the tiny little lever on the calipers just wasn't gonna work, and I have read many threads that confirm this. Good luck, but I stuck with the really inexpensive Monte Carlo calipers.
I really don't have any way to confirm of it works better, although I know for sure that with fewer linkages and a much shorter cable, it takes much less of a yank on the handle to hold the truck still. No more of those horrible e-brake bell crank levers on the rear drums that seem to seize up around here.
Yes, if you're in 4WD with the front hubs locked and you lift one rear tire, the truck will still not be able to roll, the front axle will hold it. This is my procedure any time I have to remove a rear tire, just to be safer.
I did get a really weird look from the inspector one time when I went for my annual sticker, but when I explained it he was "oh that's really cool".
I really don't have any way to confirm of it works better, although I know for sure that with fewer linkages and a much shorter cable, it takes much less of a yank on the handle to hold the truck still. No more of those horrible e-brake bell crank levers on the rear drums that seem to seize up around here.
Yes, if you're in 4WD with the front hubs locked and you lift one rear tire, the truck will still not be able to roll, the front axle will hold it. This is my procedure any time I have to remove a rear tire, just to be safer.
I did get a really weird look from the inspector one time when I went for my annual sticker, but when I explained it he was "oh that's really cool".
I've owned both. (4cy, geared tc)
AP on a '92
Sky on a '85
If I had to buy again, I'd prolly go with AP for a couple of reasons:
- The installed package is smaller
- I liked the "nut and bolt" disc to output flange attachment vs Sky's threaded disc design.
- AP had no manufacturing issues. Sky did (they made it good which was cool).
- The AP held the truck better than the Sky. I know the trucks are not the same but I've monkey'd around with the Sky unit to get the most clamping pressure possible still with marginal performance IMO. (both units are the same design concept so I don't know why one would work any better than the other
)
The '85 has RDB brackets by Sky... good stuff! Monte Carlo calipers etc.. etc.. works very well, too well actually.. requires proportion valve and residual valve and bigger master yadda yadda...
Not bashing Sky Mfg at all, they took care of me and I would buy other products from them. Just sharing my experience.
Good luck and post up your results.
AP on a '92
Sky on a '85
If I had to buy again, I'd prolly go with AP for a couple of reasons:
- The installed package is smaller
- I liked the "nut and bolt" disc to output flange attachment vs Sky's threaded disc design.
- AP had no manufacturing issues. Sky did (they made it good which was cool).
- The AP held the truck better than the Sky. I know the trucks are not the same but I've monkey'd around with the Sky unit to get the most clamping pressure possible still with marginal performance IMO. (both units are the same design concept so I don't know why one would work any better than the other
)The '85 has RDB brackets by Sky... good stuff! Monte Carlo calipers etc.. etc.. works very well, too well actually.. requires proportion valve and residual valve and bigger master yadda yadda...
Not bashing Sky Mfg at all, they took care of me and I would buy other products from them. Just sharing my experience.
Good luck and post up your results.
Pictars of '85 w/Sky stuff
Pictars of '92 w/AP stuff.. only one I could find. Kinda rusty dirty lookin' too, typically not my style.
Pictars of '92 w/AP stuff.. only one I could find. Kinda rusty dirty lookin' too, typically not my style.
