Hi All.
i have been searching a lot on the best $ way to modify a LC or light truck in 6x6 and it appears to me that you need to go the ford 9" way.
I will explain, additional transfer case as they do in australia and a couple of guys in china, actually adds a lot of weight and take a lot of room under the hj, not talking about extremely short rear shafts that force you to reduce the first rear axle travel.
The best option, move the toyota original rear axle to the second rear axle position and fit a custom ford 9" (so many ratio available it should not be a problem to find one matching the original toy one).
The ford 9" has a bolted front flange, witch can be replaced by by a :transfer box bolted to it. Chain box by using either a late TC toy LC chain and gears or a nissan patrol one.
Similar to what USA6x6 did long ago on the dana 60 or GM14bolts i can't remember.
You don't include an inter axle differential in it, but can eventually integrate a decoupling reusing parts from a part time 4wd TC as the nissan. This is only if you pan to use it extensively on the road and want to save a bit your tires.
A lot of work is still needed, some machining, but it is your best option weight and volume wise......and keeping $ at faisable level.
I was thinking to get some parts done here while i am in china but never got started and i don't have ford 9" center in hand to CAD all the parts needed.
I have been driving the chinese 6x6 60 with fzj engine and michelin 325 85r16 tires. While it was fun and quite impressive on loose ground, turning radius was close to the one of a road train and fuel consumption was....well you just don't want a know

Suspension travel was the next flaw, it was saved by it's 3 axles difflocks and big tires.
I don't say thay a well designed 6x6 would not be awsome offroad, but it is better suited to a light truck with an engine placed largely behind the front axle and short wheel base to keep the turning radius at acceptable level.
6x6 is maybe an option for iceland since you have quite some room to move in like in deserts... but one thing would worry me, the very unbalanced load per square meter front and rear. unless you always carry huge loads, you will have your noze diving in the snow while the rear will be floating and you will still be stucked anyway, you will also have a very nose dive position when you hit a crevasse

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Why don't iceland guys use mattracks or similar, they give you equivelent to portal axles, extra reduction (protect your transmission to my point of view) and can get you all the flotasion you need by just making them longer.
And if you really want to float, go for the russian arctic 6x6, their late models look fantastic, they have a few movies on youtube.
Good luck with your project, i will be following
