Transfer case for 6x6

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I agree with the comment on rockwells, but being in iceland you may be able to buy 3 cruisers for the cost of shipping them over.

True and also they are way too heavy, I need to keep it within the gross weight to keep it street legal.

...44" tires are always looking better :P
 
well a Volvo frame with 1KZ-t diesel, R151f, splitcase, cab, me and 40" Michelin XZL's weigh 2.100kg...
 
Personally, I would look real hard at a pair of Rockwells on walking beam suspension and a single rear output for the T/C.

Mark...


I'm with Mark, I'd stick with a single output TC and get power from the first rear axle to go to the second. This would be easy with rockwells.
 
The Volvos are like that already, and you get a portal setup as a bonus.
the Volvo TGB20 has a GVW of 5.4T
 
Also with rockwells and Volvo portals I would have to change the front axle also, since of the ratios in those axles.

But it seems like a divorced GM/dodge NP205 case behind the Toyota case could solve this problem quite well.

Also a big plus with using the original Toyota rear axle is the offset diff, no problem getting the drive shaft back to the rear axle if that has a center diff.

Was thinking about a 8" hilux axle, light and reasonably strong (remember it is only active when it is sharing the load with the cruiser axle).
 
Also with rockwells and Volvo portals I would have to change the front axle also, since of the ratios in those axles.

But it seems like a divorced GM/dodge NP205 case behind the Toyota case could solve this problem quite well.

Also a big plus with using the original Toyota rear axle is the offset diff, no problem getting the drive shaft back to the rear axle if that has a center diff.

Was thinking about a 8" hilux axle, light and reasonably strong (remember it is only active when it is sharing the load with the cruiser axle).

Or a 60 series cruiser rear axle with an 80 series mid axle, the 80 rear is pretty much centered, so the 60 rear would sit to one side, though you still may havedriveline issues.

The other thing is, and I may get a hard time for this because it may be a bit weak for a rear axle but: 80 series high pinion front would have better pinion angle over the forward driveshaft if installed in the rear, or better yet, a high pinion ford 9" that was offset to one side.
 
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I´d rather go with a hilux rear than a high pinion 80 front, mainly because the 80 series axle is much wider than the 60 and they cost more + a front axle is always heavier than a rear axle.
That said, I´ve also thought about having a hilux front axle there so I can turn it, should reduce the binding when turning.

I´ll look into the ford axle, maybe thats the best choice, strong, light and has a higher pinion
 
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Just got me a Dana 24 transfer case, needs rebuilding but should suit my needs.

sexy.jpg


...So should I do it? :)
 
of course you should:)

And when your are done I will comew visit you to see how it looks ;)
 
real world calling:

How are you going to make the glass?

Where is the gas tank going?

separate or joined springs?
 
real world calling:

How are you going to make the glass?

Where is the gas tank going?

separate or joined springs?

No springs in the back, 2 airbags on each axle, so on road I can deflate both rear axles, hook up the rearmost axle to the frame somehow and pump up the middle axle and drive on 4 wheels.

I have no worries about the glass, know a few places here that can make it.

The diesel tank will be sitting between the rear axles I think, plan on having 200-300L capacity.

I plan on buying another 60 series body which has less rust and using the rear window part of mine to extend the body, may prove to be a bit tricky.

I know this is a very ambitious project, that´s why I won´t start anything until I have everything figured out.
 
Sorry, I forgot where it came from, except that it's from Down Under, but pics are always nice :D

6x6.webp
 
Talos--I think it's a great idea considering where you live.

The solution is the same as what large trucks use; the front drive axle has the input and also an output shaft, which you then with a mini-drive shaft connect to the rear drive axle.
No need to change transfer cases--actually 2 outputs to the rear won't work as the variations in the axle position will interfere with the other drive shaft getting to the rear axle.

There are other videos on youtube and you can also go to your local large truck yard to see an example. The challenge will be to find small enough axles with the input/output style diff.

fun!
 
Hi All.

i have been searching a lot on the best $ way to modify a LC or light truck in 6x6 and it appears to me that you need to go the ford 9" way.

I will explain, additional transfer case as they do in australia and a couple of guys in china, actually adds a lot of weight and take a lot of room under the hj, not talking about extremely short rear shafts that force you to reduce the first rear axle travel.

The best option, move the toyota original rear axle to the second rear axle position and fit a custom ford 9" (so many ratio available it should not be a problem to find one matching the original toy one).

The ford 9" has a bolted front flange, witch can be replaced by by a :transfer box bolted to it. Chain box by using either a late TC toy LC chain and gears or a nissan patrol one.

Similar to what USA6x6 did long ago on the dana 60 or GM14bolts i can't remember.
You don't include an inter axle differential in it, but can eventually integrate a decoupling reusing parts from a part time 4wd TC as the nissan. This is only if you pan to use it extensively on the road and want to save a bit your tires.

A lot of work is still needed, some machining, but it is your best option weight and volume wise......and keeping $ at faisable level.
I was thinking to get some parts done here while i am in china but never got started and i don't have ford 9" center in hand to CAD all the parts needed.

I have been driving the chinese 6x6 60 with fzj engine and michelin 325 85r16 tires. While it was fun and quite impressive on loose ground, turning radius was close to the one of a road train and fuel consumption was....well you just don't want a know:hillbilly:
Suspension travel was the next flaw, it was saved by it's 3 axles difflocks and big tires.
I don't say thay a well designed 6x6 would not be awsome offroad, but it is better suited to a light truck with an engine placed largely behind the front axle and short wheel base to keep the turning radius at acceptable level.

6x6 is maybe an option for iceland since you have quite some room to move in like in deserts... but one thing would worry me, the very unbalanced load per square meter front and rear. unless you always carry huge loads, you will have your noze diving in the snow while the rear will be floating and you will still be stucked anyway, you will also have a very nose dive position when you hit a crevasse:bang:.

Why don't iceland guys use mattracks or similar, they give you equivelent to portal axles, extra reduction (protect your transmission to my point of view) and can get you all the flotasion you need by just making them longer.
And if you really want to float, go for the russian arctic 6x6, their late models look fantastic, they have a few movies on youtube.

Good luck with your project, i will be following:popcorn:
 
My take is still to take a Volvo TGB 6x6 frame, move the 12H-t, it has been done before, and add the HJ61 body. All in all it could be done for less than 10K USD, and done right!
 
It is sure a quicker way, but i think they are gettign quite rare now:hhmm:, and gearing is really short, okk offroad with very big tires but that is quite limited i think.
 
Thanks for all the feedback guys, nice to be able to bounce this stuff off people :)

First off it is a requirement for me to be able to shift out of the rearmost drive and preferably lift it for on road driving, the straight-through setup of the ford 9 inch doesn´t allow that I think.

The Volvo axles would be nice but the price for them over here is obscene, could get a complete HJ61 for the price of one of those (let alone 3!).

The Mattracks have been tried but we drive our cars alot on tarmac, both in the summer and to get to where the snow is, driving on those bad boys at 60 mph for 300 miles is not a fun prospect, further the mileage of the car goes way up, but yes the do work well in the snow, but the tyres we use also work quite well :)

Regarding the Russian rigs, its not possible to get them road legal so they are out.

Regarding the front weight issue, there are about 2800 lbs sitting on the front axle and 2200 on the rear now (empty), adding a spare tyre(38-44" + rim), 300L of fuel (600lbs) and tools/spare parts, the weight in the back goes up really fast, now when I go on long trips I put 60L of fuel on the front bumper to even things out.
Also I would move the batteries to the rear, those badboys are quite hefty.

In snow driving we want a 60/40 (front/rear) weight distribution, it seems to work the best (CJ5s suck in snow btw) so if I would end up with a bit front heavy truck thats fine because when you start going up a hill the weight shifts back, thats usually when you cant go any further, but, if you had 2 axles to take that extra weight you should be able to climb further.

The Dana 24 is very heavy but it was the only one here I could find (got it for free), will probably use that one to begin with.

Also the budget on this is way below $10K :) So I will try to keep machine work to a minimum.
 

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