transfer case fill plug stripped can I ...

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Fill the transfer case from the speedo cable? It was leaking from there to begin with and I just replaced o ring and drained and can't get the fill plug out...rookie mistake.
I stripped it worse then it was, trying to do pm before a long hunting trip and now I can't even drive it.
It's a 94
Thanks
 
Stripped the threads from the case or rounded the head of the fill plug? If rounded the head of the fill plug out can try to rotate it out using a hammer and chisel. If the threads are stripped that's another story.
 
If the bolt head is stripped, a heavy duty basin wrench used for plumbing works great. Used one of the fill plug for my front diff last week.
 
I just rounded the head for sure I haven't got it to turn so I don't have any reason to believe threads are stripped...really wish I wouldn't have drained it first.
 
It's such a shallow head that's hard to get one of those plumbing wrenches on with the case where it's situated.
I can probably have a friend come weld a nut on but just curious if anyone knew if I could squirt the gear oil in speedo case ?
 
Definitely investing in those
 
Hammer straight in on the head of the plug, this will crush the seal washer making the plug easier to remove.
 
Weld a nut to it and use a ratchet to get it off. Then use the allen head fill/drain plug instead.
 
If you have room you can file a flat spot on the head of the nut and another flat spot opposite it then use a crescent wrench or an open end wrench if it fits. (use a metric crescent wrench for best results :P)
 
I used the @Tools R Us method the last time I changed mine out. It wasn't completely rounded off but was getting close. Worked like a charm. Then I installed the hex head plug and will never worry about that again!
 
And don't overtighten just because a big wrench fits it- It's only holding oil in-not the transfer case on. Just tight enough not to vibrate out. Same for all oil plugs.
 
I would suggest @Tools R Us method of hammering it a bit to try and flatten the crush washer more. Then assuming you used an actual metric Allen socket to try and remove it, find the SAE socket that is slightly larger and pound it into place and then try to remove it. But if you used an SAE equivalent Allen socket try and use a metric slightly larger.
 
I used the @Tools R Us method the last time I changed mine out. It wasn't completely rounded off but was getting close. Worked like a charm. Then I installed the hex head plug and will never worry about that again!

Until you strip the Allen? :hillbilly:
 
Might want to make sure there's a washer in there first. I broke 3 welded nut/bolt attempts off of mine.... it had been tightened then rounded by a PO (probably an impact) and without a washer behind it. I was using an 18" breaker bar, which was bending. The 4th attempt (after recleaning the head off by breaking chunks of weld and the bolt off with locking pliers).

I went to a parts store and bought an M18x1.5 that has a normal bolt head on it for future removal (at least for now, may go allen head method later).

Toyota used these bolts for years, if not decades.... and the worst part about them is previous owners. I had learned the lesson of "remove the fill bolt before draining" long ago on AW11's. I will say, at least in that vehicle - that I could pull the speedo gear and fill it (in fact it was about 10x faster). You will need to know how much to put in as the level at which oil pours out probably isn't the same.
 
I don't use washers on mine, but I torque the bolts to spec. The reason I don't use washers is that it didn't come with them on from PO. Absolutely no leaks.
 

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