Trans Issue (1 Viewer)

[Mark Smith]

‘99 LC that’s been sitting a while. My son had been driving it before I got him a truck and had said a few times that it acted like it didn’t want to go into gear. I had to move it yesterday and it was very sluggish engaging 1st and reverse, shifts normally after and better as it warms up. Fluid is slightly low at cold but it’s 20-30 degrees here now. Had to move it again today and it rev’d and half went into gear.

Old fluid? Low fluid? Sensor? No grinding or popping, no CEL, shifts fine after 1st or reverse.

I'll prioritize based on my own opinion as a shadetree diy'er with questionable maintenance habits, 1-4 highest to lowest, or DIY. I'm sure others will have very different opinions.

You can drive with pulsing brakes, but it's annoying (I'm currently driving with pulsing brakes). If you're confident enough to change a tire, I'd highly recommend changing your own pads/rotors. It's a DIY project with a high savings to effort ratio. - DIY
A failed starter can leave you stranded (mine did, had to tow home). - 1
You can drive safely without the diff locking reliably (unless a CV fails). You can also regularly cycle the diff lock which might improve it, mine did. - 4
I'll let others comment on the timing belt, but I'm currently gambling on mine for a bit while I fix other things. - 3
A dirty air filter can reduce power and MPG, also a monkey can do this...replace your own filter asap. - DIY
Axle/CV play, check the c-clips under the grease caps yourself. This might be a super easy DIY fix if the clips are missing or dislodged. If you have to change the CV axles, I'd prioritize it as a 3, or 2 if you're offroading or towing regularly. If they break you can lock the center diff and keep driving (I drove with locked center diff for a while until I got mine fixed). - 3/2
Leaking transmission fluid can eventually leave you stranded if you don't keep it filled, and you're staining anywhere you park. You could constantly check the fluid and top it off, but changing a radiator shouldn't take a shop much time at all. - 2
The steering rack will steadily get worse over time, but likely won't dramatically fail and strand you. Also you'll need to keep topping up fluid, and you're staining anywhere you park. I kept mine topped off but stupidly waited until it leaked a pint in a day. - 3
You can drive safely without covers. - 4

Thank you for taking the time - much appreciated.

a. Agree on the filters - just saw a video - doing engine and cabin filters today.

b. On the brakes - I don't feel a real pulsing. Their brake inspection noted front at 4mm and rear at 6mm - I have not yet looked to see if those numbers are a problem or not.

c. The starter leaving me stranded is less of my worry vs. the fear that it causes much bigger issues if it craps out and parts go flying.

d. I need to watch a video on how to check the c clips under the grease caps - I am not mechanical and have no idea where those are.

There is no staining when we park anywhere and any fluid leaks have been minimal.

Thank you for taking the time - much appreciated.

a. Agree on the filters - just saw a video - doing engine and cabin filters today.

b. On the brakes - I don't feel a real pulsing. Their brake inspection noted front at 4mm and rear at 6mm - I have not yet looked to see if those numbers are a problem or not.

c. The starter leaving me stranded is less of my worry vs. the fear that it causes much bigger issues if it craps out and parts go flying.

d. I need to watch a video on how to check the c clips under the grease caps - I am not mechanical and have no idea where those are.

There is no staining when we park anywhere and any fluid leaks have been minimal.

Btw, is a radiator replacement a major issue and difficult to do?

 

[MongooseGA]

First thing most guys here will suggest is to flush the fluid. The transmission, especially when very cold, can be a little sluggish with low or spent fluid.

 

[Old 40]

My 2000 LC is cold natured as well when it's below freezing. Perfectly fine once it comes up to operating temperature. As Mongoose stated above, check to ensure the fluid level is correct, and flushing it is not a bad idea either.

 

[99UnDaCuvaBrutha]

yeah i would start with the fluid level.

 

[2001LC]

Know how to check A/T fluid level, is key. "idling in park, level ground, after shifting through all gears pausing in each. Get A/T fluid up to ~160F first. Check level, get up to high hot mark when adding. If low, add Mobil 1 Multi Vehicle ATF. If you see improvement, do a full 12 qt. flush (not a drain and fill).

Make sure an A/T issues, not something else. Like, hub flanges, engine miss, etc.

 

[Mark Smith]

Turns out the transmission in my ‘99 LC is shot. The transmission shop doesn’t do Toyotas because they don’t have the specialty tools (whatever those are) because they rarely see one.

Is there an aftermarket source on the 4spd trans?

 

[Malleus]

I'll rebuild it for you, if you want. LMK

I'm back and forth between Charlotte and Georgetown yearly. I need an excuse to come down.

 

[nissanh]

A shop in my town said they don't do foreign cars/trucks.. But a shop 4 hours away got my 2000 LC trans rebuilt.
Make sure you install an OEM rear main seal and transfer case input oil seal.

 

[97 AZ LC]

Turns out the transmission in my ‘99 LC is shot. The transmission shop doesn’t do Toyotas because they don’t have the specialty tools (whatever those are) because they rarely see one.

How many miles? It often turns out that it isn't the transmission that is bad, especially on a 99.

 

[Mark Smith]

How many miles? It often turns out that it isn't the transmission that is bad, especially on a 99.

270K. After taking it out of Park, everything is a forward gear, even neutral.

 

[Malleus]

Well, that's likely not a transmission problem, that's a shifter problem. Neutral and reverse gear can't go forward.

 

[Mark Smith]

Unfortunately, whatever the issue is, it's out of my realm of experience. Prior to our 15yr blizzard here at the coast, it would reverse but you'd have to rev the engine to get it to move, like 3-3500rpms and it was sloooowww. I got in it the other day and when it went into reverse, it wouldn't move at all. I got the engine up to operating temp and spent 30 minutes going in and out of all the gears with my foot on the brake to get the temp up. I checked the ATF and it was low. I added enough to bring it to the low end of the hot marks not wanting to overfill it. Tried reversing again and nothing. I had to drag it off the fence it was parked up to with the truck. I put it in F and it drove like nothing was wrong. I got it to the street and tried reverse and nothing. I drove it 15 miles to the transmission shop and was optimistic that it was a service issue because it shifted great and zero noise, smooth as silk. It's like it is locked up in neutral and reverse. The transfer case shifter is also stuck in H and won't move.

 

[97 AZ LC]

I would get a second opinion, from the most honest shop you can find. Transmission shops are like the proverbial pony that does only one trick.