Solved - Persistent Transmission OD/4th Gear Issue

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Joined
Sep 14, 2021
Threads
13
Messages
97
Location
California
Hi All,

I have had a persistent issue for the last year with the transmission in my 2000 LX470 losing 4th gear/OD while driving. Initially, I went through the most common fixes: checking/replacing the transmission sensors, wheel speed (ABS) sensors, checking coolant temp sensor, and doing a complete transmission fluid exchange. At first, I DID find that one of the abs sensors was indeed on its literal land strand (passenger rear) and immediately replaced this past October. This seemed to be the fix. Drove a 1,200 mile road trip and other smaller trips without issue. However, in May (as the weather warmed up), the OD issue came back. Important to note that throughout all of this, there was NEVER a check engine light. And my only real clue was that my OBDII reader would display vehicle speed as 26mph when actually driving about 65mph on the highway. Speedometer/Combination meter was displaying the correct speed, but clearly the info my OBDII was reading told a different story. Also, this would consistently happen after driving 20-25 miles on the highway and then lose 4th/OD. If I parked the car and let it rest over night, it would "reset".

Well, after doing a deep dive and ruling out usual suspects. I looked at the wiring diagrams and read that a speed signal is processed in the actual combination meter/speedometer and then sent to ECU where the signal type is converted into a different wave form. At this point, it seemed like there are only 2 possible variables. Either the speedometer/combination meter or the actual ecu. I did not want to just throw parts at (expensive ones), so my friend and I devised a test. Once again, using the wiring diagrams, we determined which wire from the harness going into ecu was responsible for sending the speed signal (Violet/purple wire). From there, we used a small wire tap to tap into signal and read signal on a small oscilloscope. Hooked it all up, reinstalled the glove box and test drove on the same route that always triggers the OD issue.

From there, we started a test drive on the same route that always triggers the condition. We noted that at 30mph, the signal had a pulse (may be wrong term) of 2 milliseconds, took a note of that. Once we got up to highway speed, the signal pulse was about .75 milliseconds. Which makes sense, because wheels are rotating faster and it takes less time to complete a rotation. At the 20 mile mark on the trip, BINGO, it happened like clockwork. 4th gear/OD was lost, no CEL, speedometer reading correctly, but OBDII info was reading 26mph. We checked the oscilloscope and the pulse signal was still .75 milliseconds. So the speedometer was indeed still sending the correct signal to ECU. But somewhere in the ECU, there is some component that is malfunctioning (maybe partly due to heat) and telling transmission incorrect speed and subsequently effecting available gears.

I purchased a rebuilt ECU from Module Mechanics, installed and results are promising! I have gone on a couple test drives (same route) and have not had any more issues with 4th/OD. Time will tell, but my fingers are cross.

Below are some pics of the wire tap and location where we measured the speed signal. I hope this helps someone in the future!

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If ECU replacement, doesn't solve issue. I'd look and AT wiring harnesses, which some have had issue with.

This assumes ATF condition, type and level as it should be. But even if not, I don't think it would give a bad speed (MPH) reading.
 
Hi All,

I have had a persistent issue for the last year with the transmission in my 2000 LX470 losing 4th gear/OD while driving. Initially, I went through the most common fixes: checking/replacing the transmission sensors, wheel speed (ABS) sensors, checking coolant temp sensor, and doing a complete transmission fluid exchange. At first, I DID find that one of the abs sensors was indeed on its literal land strand (passenger rear) and immediately replaced this past October. This seemed to be the fix. Drove a 1,200 mile road trip and other smaller trips without issue. However, in May (as the weather warmed up), the OD issue came back. Important to note that throughout all of this, there was NEVER a check engine light. And my only real clue was that my OBDII reader would display vehicle speed as 26mph when actually driving about 65mph on the highway. Speedometer/Combination meter was displaying the correct speed, but clearly the info my OBDII was reading told a different story. Also, this would consistently happen after driving 20-25 miles on the highway and then lose 4th/OD. If I parked the car and let it rest over night, it would "reset".

Well, after doing a deep dive and ruling out usual suspects. I looked at the wiring diagrams and read that a speed signal is processed in the actual combination meter/speedometer and then sent to ECU where the signal type is converted into a different wave form. At this point, it seemed like there are only 2 possible variables. Either the speedometer/combination meter or the actual ecu. I did not want to just throw parts at (expensive ones), so my friend and I devised a test. Once again, using the wiring diagrams, we determined which wire from the harness going into ecu was responsible for sending the speed signal (Violet/purple wire). From there, we used a small wire tap to tap into signal and read signal on a small oscilloscope. Hooked it all up, reinstalled the glove box and test drove on the same route that always triggers the OD issue.

From there, we started a test drive on the same route that always triggers the condition. We noted that at 30mph, the signal had a pulse (may be wrong term) of 2 milliseconds, took a note of that. Once we got up to highway speed, the signal pulse was about .75 milliseconds. Which makes sense, because wheels are rotating faster and it takes less time to complete a rotation. At the 20 mile mark on the trip, BINGO, it happened like clockwork. 4th gear/OD was lost, no CEL, speedometer reading correctly, but OBDII info was reading 26mph. We checked the oscilloscope and the pulse signal was still .75 milliseconds. So the speedometer was indeed still sending the correct signal to ECU. But somewhere in the ECU, there is some component that is malfunctioning (maybe partly due to heat) and telling transmission incorrect speed and subsequently effecting available gears.

I purchased a rebuilt ECU from Module Mechanics, installed and results are promising! I have gone on a couple test drives (same route) and have not had any more issues with 4th/OD. Time will tell, but my fingers are cross.

Below are some pics of the wire tap and location where we measured the speed signal. I hope this helps someone in the future!

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This is some great detective work. Nice job! Keep us posted.
 
While a pain in the butt to get here, I am glad that it took me through a "transmission journey" and learned much more about the car along the way. Having techstream and an OBD2 reader module was essential in pin pointing issue. I used techstream to verify wheel speed sensor reading (which were all correct) to rule out that issue anymore.

At this point if it happens again, I am going to start with reading the speed signal from dash to ECU, providing everything else is the same since I never had abs or cel.

Also, another fun note is I that took pictures of the relevant wiring diagrams and uploaded them to Chat GPT/AI to help me understand what I was looking at.
 
If ECU replacement, doesn't solve issue. I'd look and AT wiring harnesses, which some have had issue with.

This assumes ATF condition, type and level as it should be. But even if not, I don't think it would give a bad speed (MPH) reading.
Excellent point, I've heard of several reports (including @2001LC's) about crimped transmission wiring on the top of the bellhousing. There's not a lot of clearance for jacking up the engine (replacing motor mounts etc.).
 
Long-time forum lurker, first time poster here! Very interested to know if the ECU replacement has fixed your issue. I have a 2000 LC, 306k miles. Acquired from a friend of mine about 1.5 years ago. Just had the same issue pop up the other night.

Had a long freeway drive about 30 minutes each way and all was normal. Stopped at a friends house for about an hour and then left. Got back onto the freeway to head home and the transmission stayed in 3rd and would never shift into 4th. I tried cycling the OD off switch many times to no effect (yes the dash light turns on and off). Also tried cycling the ECT power switch. No slipping or anything unusual, just no shift to 4th gear (as if it's in OD off mode). Fluid was at normal level and smelled and looked fine. I didn't think to check my vehicle speed or any other PIDS on my OBD II app, but later scanned for codes when I got home and nothing came up.

Let it sit overnight and after searching the forums for similar issues I found this thread. I drove it about 25 minutes yesterday and all was normal... ODB II app reading the correct speed from the ECU at all times. I'm depending on this truck for multiple ski trips winter and this is not exactly confidence-inspiring... Will report back if the issue pops up again.
 
Yes, so far, switching the ECU for a refurbished one has fixed the OD issue. I did hook up tech stream (with a friend to monitor) wheel speed sensors and also overall speed measurements. Wheels speeds showed normal but the speed value was off. I never got a CEL /other code. And my speedometer in dash was correct.

If you go ECU replacement route, I STRONGLY recommend one that comes with a key already programmed to ECU. It made the swap much easier and allowed me to use tech stream to add additional master keys easily. The keys I added were the ones I already had and had the remote access frequency for lock/unlock programmed in.

The uncut key that ECU came with, I took apart and put the cut key in with the programmed transponder. Then I simply added the other keys.
 
Right on thanks for the info! I'm waiting to see if the problem shows up again, and I'll be ready with a scan tool to hopefully confirm what's happening. If I can confirm the ECU is bad, I'll get one with the master key(s) from Module Mechanics.

I also have read in some other threads about the ECU possibly thinking the car is in low range and that prevents the 4th gear shift? Interesting because I just replaced the low range switch a few months ago (I convinced myself it was bad. Not sure it actually was, but that's another story). I guess it's possible the new switch is going bad, although I've tested it and it seems to be working normally. And all the shift points and everything seemed normal, even when the issue had popped up. I would think the shift points would be noticeably affected if it thought it was in low range. Unfortunately my scan tool doesn't have a PID to show whether the Low range circuit is active in the ECU. Nor will it connect to the VSC/ABS module. I'll see if I can borrow a better scan tool from my friend's shop.
 
Tech stream would be the surest bet. I am not totally sure, but if your vehicle thinks it's in 4 low, wouldn't the vsc/trac lights show off?

Also, when my lx470 didnt have OD and I was limited to 3rd, it did not effect driving. I stayed at 3k rpm or below and did not have any excessively high oil, trans, or coolant temps. Just drinking fuel like crazy. If we were towing, we would have OD off anyway and pulling more weight. That's at least what I told myself, the lx could take it.
 
May have been a one off. So drive all you can now, see if returns. Also I'd check:
  • Check for DTC current, pending and history. Best done with full tech stream, connected to PC or Toyota SST. Some ODB port reads, miss stuff. You're best to scan during issue event or just after, without turning IG key off.
  • Check that, Engine Coolant Temp (ECT) reaches better than 131F or 141F ( :hmm: ). As seen in Tech stream. A/T will not allow O/D, when it's cold. Low coolant level, can give false low ECT reading. If level below ECT sending unit. Also if wire damage or bad sensor.
  • Check A/T fluid temp and level at proper A/T Fluid temp for your year. As always check with engine idling, A/T in P or N.
  • In addition to ECT being warmed-up. A/T must also get signals from Throttle Position Sensor and Wheel Speed Sensor. Make sure no issues found or noted with them.
  • Check inside A/T wire harness blocks, for corrosion. Also ECT, A/T, throttle and speed sensor wires, for any damage.
  • look for water intrusion, into dash or side junction box. Most common that affects electrinos, is from "A" pillar. Which is very often due to, bad windshield install. We can also flood the HVAC fresh air opening, above glove box. Unusually, but happens in really bad rains. When drain area, between front doors and fender full of leaves/debris. This water usually just drips from bottom of HVAC fan motor. But if blower fan cavity full of leaves. It may then flood over onto wires & computes behind glove box. Check inside the CPU wire housing block for corrosion or oxidation
 
Tech stream would be the surest bet. I am not totally sure, but if your vehicle thinks it's in 4 low, wouldn't the vsc/trac lights show off?
Possibly getting slightly off topic here, but I'm honestly not sure. Can someone else with a 2000 LC confirm whether or not VSC/Trac Off lights are supposed to come on when you shift to low range? Mine does not. Lights only come on when I activate the CDL.

I recently went down that rabbit hole of diagnosing my low range sensor circuit because I swore the lights were supposed to turn on in Low range. I also convinced myself that it automatically locked the CDL when you shifted to low range (possibly a Mandela effect situation, lol). But then I later read the owners manual, and it specifically says that it does not. This is a 2000 Land Cruiser with ATRAC BTW. My understanding is only earlier models (pre-ATRAC) auto lock the CDL in Low range (which some people change with the pin 7 mod).

Anyways, I confirmed voltage is getting to ECM when the low range is engaged and circuit opens when shifted to N or HI. I'm in the process of acquiring a better scan tool so I can see all the PIDS that the ECM and VSC modules are seeing.
 
May have been a one off. So drive all you can now, see if returns. Also I'd check:
All good info! I've already checked some of these things on your list. Although until the problem shows up again, I'm limited with what I can do. We just had 15 inches of rain from these last storms and I discovered my windshield seal was leaking (another fun thing I'm dealing with fixing right now) so that is certainly in my mind as a possible cause. Although I've yet to find any sign of water or corrosion in any of the electrical connections.

I'm going to get set up with a better scan tool and keep it in the car to be ready if the issue pops up again. FWIW I worked many years as an auto tech, got all my ASE certifications etc, so I am pretty experienced with diagnosing electrical issues. I no longer work at an auto repair shop, so I don't have as easy access to all the diagnostic equipment. But make no mistake I 100% appreciate all the advice and experience from others on this forum!
 
Just in case this info helps anyone. I found out there's actually TWO different Vehicle Speed sensors.

Apparently the one primarily used for the ECUs shift logic is VSS #2, aka SP2. It's a two wire magnetic type sensor at the left rear of the transmission measuring the transmission output shaft speed. This sensor goes into the ECU at connector E7. Red Wire at Pin 5, Green Wire at pin 11.

VSS #1 is a 3-wire hall-effect type sensor that is at the rear of the transfer case output shaft. As previously mentioned, this sensor goes to the Speedometer first, which then sends a cleaned up signal to the ECU on the violet wire at connector E8 pin 15. Apparently this signal is only used by the ECU to affect shift points as a backup if VSS #2 has failed.

VSS #1 and VSS #2 should always read the same, unless the transfer case is physically in Neutral or Low Range. Then you would see a difference between the two. Maybe the ECU compares the signals to logic check each other? I would think it would set a code if it was detecting different speeds on each. But who knows, early OBDII systems are notoriously dumb sometimes.

So if this info is true, it seems unlikely to me that the Speed sensor #1 circuit would cause this failure. More likely cause would be a failure of VSS #2 (the 2-wire sensor at the rear of the transmission), or the ECU thinking the truck is in Low Range (connector E9, pin 22, Black/Red wire) and locking out 4th gear. Or a failure of the ECU itself.

VSS.webp
 
Long story short, I'm about 99.9% sure my issue was the low range switch. Here's the longer explanation:

In trying to fully understand the system a few weeks ago, I discovered that that there are 2 vehicle speed sensors (see my previous post). The one on the end of the transfer case (VSS#1) is for the speedometer, while the one on the output shaft of the transmission (VSS#2) is for the ECU to control the shift points. You would expect both to always read the same, except if the transfer case is in neutral or low. You can test this by putting your transfer case in neutral and then putting the transmission in drive. You'll see VSS#2 on your OBD readout register speed (because the output shaft of the trans is moving), but the speedometer will read zero.

Next I put it in low range and naturally I expected the two sensors to read differently (because of the transfer case ratio of about 2.5:1). But strangely enough the OBD speed matched the speedometer. So I deduced that when the ECU thinks it's in low range (via a signal from the low range switch), it must divide the speed it's seeing on VSS#2 by 2.5 and that's what you see on your OBD II readout. To further confirm this, I disconnected the low range switch and put it in low range. ECU now thinks it's in Hi but the transfer case is physically in low operating with a gear reduction of 2.5:1-ish. Now my OBD readout was reading artificially 2.5 times higher than my actual speed on my speedometer. I was driving about 20MPH but it was reading around 45. Hypothesis confirmed as far as I'm concerned.

Fast-forward after 3+ weeks of normal driving, I finally got it to act up again. Same exact symptoms as the OP. ECU was not commanding 4th gear and also would not lock up the torque converter like it normally would be under light load. ECT and ATF temperatures, and all other relevant PIDS I could find were all in normal ranges. I was driving about 60 MPH but my OBDII readout was reading about 24 MPH. 60 divided by 2.5=24...

I pulled over and kept the engine running while I crawled underneath and disconnected the low range switch. Pulled back out on the road and immediately returned to normal transmission operation. Just to doubly confirm, I reconnected the switch and went back to the same failure symptoms.

Conclusion: Low range switch is intermittently shorting out. ECU erroneously thinks the transfer case is in low range and is programmed not ever shift to 4th or lock the torque converter. I've disconnected the switch for now and everything is operating normally but I'll be replacing the switch soon.
 
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Well done
 
And my only real clue was that my OBDII reader would display vehicle speed as 26mph when actually driving about 65mph on the highway. Speedometer/Combination meter was displaying the correct speed, but clearly the info my OBDII was reading told a different story.
Given the OPs intermittent symptoms are basically identical to mine, I suspect that his low range switch circuit (not the ECU) is the issue for him too. I think the telltale sign is he stated that the speed difference was exactly a factor of 2.5 (the transfer case ratio). 65MPH divided by 2.5 equals 26 MPH. What are the odds it would be off by that exact amount if it was anything else?
 
@geoffunkel Great deep dive! What was the part number for the Lo Switch? Issue hasn't popped up since I swapped ECU, but that doesn't mean it won't. At this point, I'm happy to put in a Lo switch for added peace of mind.
 
Good job @geoffunkel.

@geoffunkel Great deep dive! What was the part number for the Lo Switch? Issue hasn't popped up since I swapped ECU, but that doesn't mean it won't. At this point, I'm happy to put in a Lo switch for added peace of mind.
I see so many request part numbers. It's a bad idea. 100 series from 1998- 2007 has many versions. For one we've two A/T A343F & A750F. Within each of those two A/T, we changes in parts also.

My go to for P/N's is www.partsouq.com, using VIN. Once part found, I click on it. This often brings up a picture of parts. It also gives sub/replacement P/N. I then use a USA Toyota or Lexus Dealership, to confirm P/N. Sometimes USA Dealerships, have addition replacement P/N.
 
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