Trailer Build Started.....

[Degnol]

any updates?

Well,I had to clean out the garage to get it inside. The tongue is done, but needs to be slipped into the trailer receiver and drilled for a 5/8" pin, then off to the sheetmetal shop for the tub


Ed

 

[Degnol]

Time flies when you're sittin' on yer arse..

Can't believe I have done nothing for three months Been too busy reading Drew's thread
I bought some shock mounts from Dan at Ruffstuff and ordered some "shot-in-the-dark" shocks. We'll see how they work out. The angle is weird, but not too far off the M416 design. At least they will work against the shackle movement. Hell, it ain't no Cadillac

Going to put some lights on it and send it to the sheetmetal guy to take to work. He will no doubt want to make the tub out of stainless.

Ed

 

[Degnol]

A repost pic of the "home made lunette" and attached to the extendable tongue....

 

[REZARF]

Man, that look great! I am digging the shocks for sure, they will dampen still, though a bit reduced. I really dig the pintel swivel!!!! Nice job bud.

Drew

 

[Degnol]

The shocks will hopefully just keep the little trailer from bouncing. They are gas charged KYBs and I compressed them about 1 1/2", so they have about 5-6" of compression left. Could have gained a little length by welding the lower toward the bottom of the axle, but I doubt it would have much effect.

Since I am going for the "look" of a 416/101, I have a pair of convoy tail lights that may be a little harder to convert to LEDs than I thought. I'm anxious to get it to the sheetmetal shop so I may just fit some generic(read CHEAP) trailer lights on it for now.

Thanks for the encouragement!

Ed

 

[Degnol]

Picked up a set of magnetic towing lights, so temporary light problem solved. This is the first time I've had it hooked up to the '40. Went to the sheetmetal guy and ordered the metal. I'm going to use 14ga for all of it. Trailer tows nicely with no bounce
Hope to have an update next week.

ed

 

[Degnol]

I had the welding shop break(or is it "brake"?) some 14ga for me. The bottom has a 2" lip on it, the sides are clamped on the outside and the ends have a 2" lip. I can only clamp the very ends of the sides, so to hold the middle tight when welding, I'll use some Cleco pins. More pics this weekend.


Ed

 

[pint]

Very sweet build man!!!

 

[camcruiser13]

looking good.

 

[Kavik]

subscribed...

 

[Degnol]

OK, I borrowed a set of Cleco pins from a bodyshop friend and gave it a go. These things are slick. I drilled 1/8" holes on 6" centers in the side piece only, flipped it over and hit it with a sanding disc to remove any burs from the side that will mate to the floor piece. Then I reclamped it to the floor and drilled through the lip on the floor. Started in the middle and worked my way to the ends, placing a pin in each freshly drilled hole as I went......
These little pins are very strong

Ed

 

[sseaman]

Cool, never seen those before

 

[Degnol]

I borrowed these because the ones I ordered have not come in yet. Bought 50 pins and the pliers for about $65 shipped. The Bee's knees

Ed

 

[RHINO]

i like cleco's, when my dad retired from aerospace tooling and machining i got alot of his tools. all kinds of neat-o things.

anyway, the trailers is lookin great !! i have a Q, your not the first ive seen do this, why the 416 style bump out wide on the top trailer box thing?? i never understood that.

 

[Degnol]

i like cleco's, when my dad retired from aerospace tooling and machining i got alot of his tools. all kinds of neat-o things.

anyway, the trailers is lookin great !! i have a Q, your not the first ive seen do this, why the 416 style bump out wide on the top trailer box thing?? i never understood that.

Rhino, I suspect the original reason was to aid it's "floatability", but I just like the look

Ed


And I first saw Clecos in a pic of a plane being built!!

 

[Degnol]

Made a little progress today. The Cleco pins came in handy again. I probably did not need the angle in the front corners for structural reasons, but it will make fitting the endcap mucho easier. That too-tall angle in the back will form the jamb for the tailgate and the removed. I'm kinda engineering as I go.

I'm ready to flip it over and rack it square and attach the front end.....


Ed

 

[Degnol]

Shot from the rear....

 

[Degnol]

Son just showed up and helped me flip it over.....


It needs to be racked about 3/4"....... (and the method demonstrated in the 1st pic did not work Maybe time for the Port-o-power

Ed

 

[OlympiaFJ60]

Nice work. I like the tub.

How is the weight with the channel? I ended up using 2x3 tube because the metal shop said it was a little lighter than 3" channel, but I'm not sure.

 

[Degnol]

Nice work. I like the tub.

How is the weight with the channel? I ended up using 2x3 tube because the metal shop said it was a little lighter than 3" channel, but I'm not sure.

I was surprised at how light the channel "rectangle" was. I think tube would be lighter, but don't know for sure. I am just trying to make a clone of the CDN101 or M416. I will say that this thing is getting heavier by the minute
Although I tacked things every 6" then welded in between randomly around the tub, it still oil-canned on me. I may have to weld some elevator bolts in the bottom to suck it down to the frame. I'll just see when I flip it over on the frame.
Anyway.............flat paint covers a lot uf ugly

Oh, and thanks for the compliment

Ed