Trailer Brake Controller Connector (2 Viewers)

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I put together the following write-up on my install of a RedArc Brake controller. The content below is a synopsis of a larger story I was going to have via a blog on another site, but unfortunately that site is having issues with their platforms:



For the install, we removed the under-dash knee panel, then moved to the switch panel to the left of the steering wheel. For the 200 Series Land Cruiser, Toyota placed the brake controller harness into a blank slot “holder” on the upper left side of the internal dash compartment. They did a great job of hiding this, so make sure you target the plug with a brown strip of tape wrapped around the exterior of the holder. RedArc does not supply the plug needed to directly connect to the truck, so we sourced a Tekonsha brake control harness (PN: 3040-P) and easily connected the supplied RedArc wires to the Tekonsha harness. Note: Simply connect the same color wires from the RedArc and Tekonsha connectors and you’re in business. **Of note, after completing the install, I found Toyota supplied Brake Controller Harness in the lift gate storage area, under some gloves that I had previously placed in that area...


Once we had the wires together, we turned our attention to the location placement for the dash controller system. I had purchased the RedArc Universal Switch Insert Panel (PN: TPSI-001) thinking it would slide right into one of the switch blanks on the dash. Try as we might, the insert panel simply was too large for space and after trying to work the plastic with a Dremel tool, it just wouldn’t wofit so we moved our focus on modifying a switch blank from the dash. We again turned to our trusted Dremel to remove the plastic on the back of the switch blank, after some drilling we squeezed the dash controller system into the panel—you need to do this very gingerly as I could tell we were stressing the assembly of the controller. Finishing up the install, we placed the brake controller unit under the dash by finding a flat panel and using some double sided 3M tape to secure the controller in place. It’s important that the controller is secured in a manner that it will not move or it will cause the unit to lose calibration.


To finish up the install, we reassembled the dash components in 5-7 minutes and turned the truck on to check out our work. Upon turning on the Land Cruiser, the remote controller didn’t actually do anything and for a few seconds I was worried that something was amiss. But all was okay, the controller will only activate it’s LED Lights in the event that you push the center button or if the controller senses that a trailer wiring has been plugged into the truck. A few short days later, we pulled our two horse trailer with the Land Cruiser and the Tow Pro Elite worked like a dream. Using auto-calibration, the LED lights were constantly blinking Blue/Green as the system calibrated itself during our short trip. Every time I applied the brakes, the LED would turn Red—just as the instructions indicated.


My overall impressions on RedArc Tow Pro Elite are outstanding! With such a small dash profile and simplistic operation, I couldn’t be more excited about a brake controller. My only negative was the install took a bit longer than I would have liked, much of that was attributed to trying to fit the RedArc Universal Switch Insert Panel into the blank switch slot. RedArc probably should offer some information on their site about what vehicles this component will fit properly.
 
How timely Weaselox. I have a RedArc brake controller en route now (hopefully on Thursday). In addition I bought the same wire harness - along with a $28 Tekonsha brake controller (you know, just in case I have redarc troubles)

Do you feel the double sided tape will provide decent attachment of the controller box? How about velcro?
 
Overall, it was very secure. We have this 3M tape/Velcro stuff on our EzPasses here and they never fall off so I feel confident that this will hold just as well. If anything, it allowed us to adjust the placement of the controller before closing up the dash. Of note: where I placed the controller, there's very little wiggle room for the controller to do anything...
 
Are there any US suppliers of the RedArc controller? Surprised it seems to only be available with shipping from AU.
 
Are there any US suppliers of the RedArc controller? Surprised it seems to only be available with shipping from AU.
I don't believe they have a distributor in the US. That being said, they ship free of charge and will have it to your door in three or four days.
 
Thanks for the write up. I've also got a 17 and I was getting ready to order this controller and a wiring harness like you got from Tekonsha. But I found this trailer brake jumper harness in the rear side compartment that I assume I can use this to connect to the brown taped connector under the dash. However:

  1. There are 5 wires on this harness; only 4 on the RedArc controller. The harness has:
    1. Black: Fused Trailer Brake Controller Battery Feed
    2. Green: Headlamp Switch to Vehicle Tail Lamps
    3. Green-Yellow: Vehicle Stop Lamp Switch to Brake Controller (Input)
    4. White-Black: Trailer Ground
    5. Yellow: Trailer Electric Brake Feed From Brake Controller (Output)
Stupid question - which wire do I not use? Understand 1 & 3 for battery connection just not 100% sure which two for lights and brakes.
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2. Green: Headlamp Switch to Vehicle Tail Lamps

You won't need this one. It's the same for my Tekonsha P3.

This wire is provided for controllers that have a night illumination mode (on the controller), so they can sense when the headlights are turned on, and switch over to night illumination. My P3 has the same lit LCD screen day or night.
 
Anyone have trouble with their Redarc not working? I mounted a new Redarc controller last week using the Toyota pigtail pictured above. I'm getting input signal to the controller when I push the brakes, but nothing going out. The controller LED makes the "breathing" blue indication of no trailer even though a trailer with brakes is hooked up to the vehicle.

I tested the trailer on 2 other vehicles and the trailer brakes work fine when hooked to a different vehicle. I checked all the fuses under the hood labeled trailer or towing and the fuses are good. All trailer lights work correctly when connected to my LC, just no trailer brakes.
 
Anyone have trouble with their Redarc not working? I mounted a new Redarc controller last week using the Toyota pigtail pictured above. I'm getting input signal to the controller when I push the brakes, but nothing going out. The controller LED makes the "breathing" blue indication of no trailer even though a trailer with brakes is hooked up to the vehicle.

I tested the trailer on 2 other vehicles and the trailer brakes work fine when hooked to a different vehicle. I checked all the fuses under the hood labeled trailer or towing and the fuses are good. All trailer lights work correctly when connected to my LC, just no trailer brakes.

My only thought is that you miswired your controller. Ive had the redarc in my cruiser with probably 10 different trailers now and have had 0 issues. Actually, I had one operator induced problem. My kids spun the knob up to 9 so when i hooked up my trailer and drove 10 feet and touched the brakes it locked up. Took a few seconds to figure out that one. I would double check your wiring to make sure its correct, maybe you swapped the brake inputs?
 
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The wiring is correct. I contacted Redarc and they told me to ground the brake output to wake up the controller. I had to turn the controller all the way up and ground the output to wake it up. The brakes then appeared to work correctly through a test light. I haven't tried hooking up to a trailer again.
 
I (actually the Toyota dealer) figured out my trailer brake problem a few weeks ago. There was a bad connection for the trailer brake pin at the receptacle where the trailer plugs in. I never took apart the receptacle because all the trailer lights worked correctly.

The dealer was chasing what they thought was a ground issue for a while before taking apart the receptacle.

As another tip, if you're going to use the Redarc controller, go ahead and buy the connector like this one: TrailerMate Custom Wiring Adapter for Trailer Brake Controllers - Pigtail TrailerMate Accessories an The wiring connector provided by Toyota uses very thin gauge wire and the colors don't match up. It will work, but the Trailer Mate is well worth the $5.
 
I see that the redarc elite is now on etrailer for $200. I have a perfectly working P3. I wonder if it's worth it to upgrade.
 
I see that the redarc elite is now on etrailer for $200. I have a perfectly working P3. I wonder if it's worth it to upgrade.

Me also! I can't stand the P3 hitting my leg when I'm shifting in my seat. I also worry if it would smash into my leg if the airbag went off. I wonder what the after market is to sell the P3
 
Redarc vs Tekonsha P3

I'm not familiar with all of the features of the Redarc so please correct me if I'm wrong. They both are proportional / inertia sensing brake controllers.

Advantage Redarc:
1) Redarc certainly is more aesthetically pleasing with a simple and nicely integrated knob/control. (potentially at the cost of function to the P3? Read on)
2) Looks like it has some form of automatic gain optimization?

Advantage Tekonsha P3
3) Brake boost - Tekonsha has a 3 position brake boost technology, B1 B2 and B3. This feature allows the trailer brakes to lead the tow vehicle brakes, for additional stability especially under high speed or emergency braking. Basically, upon initial brake applications, the P3 will apply stronger brakes at the trailer. So the trailer leads the braking so it's not surging on the tow vehicle. This lets the rig slow with the hitch in tension (stable), rather than compression. I use this all the time especially on the highway and I believe it's a big differentiator to safety.
4) Manual trailer brake override. Looks to me that the redarc only has pushbutton control (fixed intensity) to manually engage the trailer brakes? Vs a full analog control of braking intensity on the P3.

Personally, 3 and 4 are big deals to me from a safety perspective. So I'll keep my P3 at this time.
 
Re 3): I'm admitedly not familiar with the P3 boost technology, but the Redarc is rate based; dial the gain and the trailer should try to outstop the vehicle regardless of brake level applied?

Re 4) : I believe with the Redarc you do have 'analog' manual control by pushing and turning. Not as ergonomic as squeezing the P3 lever, but it's not just a binary brake application.
 
Re 3): I'm admitedly not familiar with the P3 boost technology, but the Redarc is rate based; dial the gain and the trailer should try to outstop the vehicle regardless of brake level applied?

Re 4) : I believe with the Redarc you do have 'analog' manual control by pushing and turning. Not as ergonomic as squeezing the P3 lever, but it's not just a binary brake application.

Good call on #4. Every time I hitch-up, I do a full modulation of the trailer brake from gentle engagement all the way to lock up to know they are working properly. Also, in an emergency situation, such as trailer sway, having analog control over the trailer brakes is important in my mind, especially in inclement weather conditions.

In regards to #3, the P3 boost feature is not the gain or proportioning function, but a special feature of the controller. For typical proportional/ inertia based controllers, the controller has to "sense" deceleration via an internal accelerometer, and only then, will apply trailer braking proportional to the rate of deceleration measured. In this fashion, the tow vehicle leads the trailer in braking (and hitch in compression). Meaning that the tow vehicle first has to independently cause some deceleration of the whole rig (while the trailer is still pushing on the tow vehicle), before the controller picks up the deceleration, then adds corresponding braking from the trailer.

With the Prodigy boost function, once it senses any braking at all (via the tail light wire), it initiates a significant braking force from the trailer brakes immediately regardless of inertial sensing. Then it will respond proportionately as the whole rig slows down. Hence trailer leading the tow vehicle in braking, keeping the hitch in tension, and the rig nice and straight. Very important in my mind, especially in down hill freeway speed situations.

This is all really a limitation of the old school tow controllers interface with the car. You'd think the car will tell the brake controller, "hey 10% braking at the brake pedal, apply 10% to the trailer". "Or 90% braking, apply 90% to the trailer". There's no such communication between the car and the brake controller. The brake controller has to separately sense the rate of deceleration via its own accelerator, then apply trailer brakes accordingly. Ancient interface technology that every controller is subject to.
 
Good thread. I wanted to post a summary of the many threads above and show how I mounted a P2 in a 2016 with a pool noodle and zip ties.

Tools:
Philips head screwdriver
10mm socket wrench
Drill

1. remove bottom panel (2 screws, 3 clips, 2 wire connectors)
2. remove upper panel (2 10mm bolts, 8-10 clips)
3. find connector on far left, wrapped in brown tape.
4. remove existing female white connector, plug in your connector (or wire it up if you didn't buy it ready to go)
5. find a nice place to ground, I used the 10mm bolt behind the fuse box
6. replace top panel
7. take bottom panel inside, into the AC, and make a wedge with the pool noodle to attach the cage/holder where the front meets the opening of the computer plug in (see pics) I drilled 2 holes only, and it is very secure using just zip ties.
8. go back out into the heat, install the bottom panel, routing the harness and wire out the rectangle with nothing above it (to the left of the computer access opening)
9. plug in and set up


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Good thread. I wanted to post a summary of the many threads above and show how I mounted a P2 in a 2016 with a pool noodle and zip ties.

Tools:
Philips head screwdriver
10mm socket wrench
Drill

1. remove bottom panel (2 screws, 3 clips, 2 wire connectors)
2. remove upper panel (2 10mm bolts, 8-10 clips)
3. find connector on far left, wrapped in brown tape.
4. remove existing female white connector, plug in your connector (or wire it up if you didn't buy it ready to go)
5. find a nice place to ground, I used the 10mm bolt behind the fuse box
6. replace top panel
7. take bottom panel inside, into the AC, and make a wedge with the pool noodle to attach the cage/holder where the front meets the opening of the computer plug in (see pics) I drilled 2 holes only, and it is very secure using just zip ties.
8. go back out into the heat, install the bottom panel, routing the harness and wire out the rectangle with nothing above it (to the left of the computer access opening)
9. plug in and set up


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Hmm.....that seems much too low for being able to reach the manual brake on the controller. As a potentially key safety feature in some circumstances, make sure you can still do that while keeping your eyes on the road.
 
Exact same place as my old suburban :) you do have to reach...

Possibly a topic for a different thread, I noticed that the manual says it uses the same mechanism for ATRAC, etc for some kind of sway control. While you are towing it can detect sway and apply pressure to only certain wheels etc.

We are picking our our camper next week. Hope it tows well!
 
Hmm.....that seems much too low for being able to reach the manual brake on the controller. As a potentially key safety feature in some circumstances, make sure you can still do that while keeping your eyes on the road.
I am always surprised when I read that people have used the manual lever for anything more than checking the trailer brakes when starting out. What is the reason you may “need” to brake the trailer? FYI, I’ve been driving trucks ( not semis) since ‘67 and have over 10,000 miles pulling a ‘27 foot trailer in the last two years.
 

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