afgman786
SILVER Star
You are correct on just unplugging the old one and plugging this into the harness that is on the left of the steering wheel.
Trailer Brake Controller Connector (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter OsoCruiser
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You are correct on just unplugging the old one and plugging this into the harness that is on the left of the steering wheel.
If you follow your home made harness there should be a white Toyota connector under the dash
white wire goes to ground, find a good bolt on the body for it
white wire goes to ground, find a good bolt on the body for it
afgman786
SILVER Star
Did that solve your issue?
I too would be interested in knowing if this solved your issue. I had the same problem when I was leaving Yellowstone. The controller worked fine from Boise to West Yellowstone. Then when I went to leave a few days later, got the same blinking sequence - 2 long green and 1 short blue flash. Pulled fuses, removed the extension, cleaned the 7 pin connectors. Finally pulled the dash apart and yanked the controller out and disconnected the harness. Everything was fine.
The one difference was when I got back to Boise, I stopped to grab some food before dropping off the trailer. As I was pulling out of the parking lot, the trailer brakes locked up for a second then the controller started flashing red. Since I was only a few min away and the brakes were released I just headed back and dropped off the trailer. Would be good to know if a replacement harness will resolve the issue. (my harness is also spliced as it is the stock harness from Toyota and the stock harness from Redarc.
Hey, Everyone, sorry for going dark for a while. But rather than endless dribbles of my attempts to fix this I thought I would wait to fix this and then fill everyone one in on how it was fixed. Yes, I replaced my spliced harness (Tekonsha to the harness that came in the Redarc box) with the Redarc TPH-021 harness. Wow. Should have done that first. So much cleaner. No splicing. Plug and play.
But the problem did not go away. Argh. After recording a series of voltage measurements for Redarc Customer Support they had me return the unit for a replacement. I received the replacement in about a week, installation was easy (I had a lot of practice). I used the TPH-021 harness I had installed and didn’t need to install anything on the dashboard as that was done. So far I have towed twice with the new unit and there are no issues. Works great. Crossing fingers that this will hold up and I can consider this case closed! Thanks to everyone for your insight. Even though it appears to have been an issue with the unit I had (possibly caused by me?) I learned a lot in the process!
But the problem did not go away. Argh. After recording a series of voltage measurements for Redarc Customer Support they had me return the unit for a replacement. I received the replacement in about a week, installation was easy (I had a lot of practice). I used the TPH-021 harness I had installed and didn’t need to install anything on the dashboard as that was done. So far I have towed twice with the new unit and there are no issues. Works great. Crossing fingers that this will hold up and I can consider this case closed! Thanks to everyone for your insight. Even though it appears to have been an issue with the unit I had (possibly caused by me?) I learned a lot in the process!
I thought I would do a mid-term followup on my challenges with the Redarc install and operation. Bottom line - the new Redarc unit did the trick. Though I haven't been towing with our travel trailer I have successful done a dozen or more trips with a couple of utility trailers and have had zero issues with the new unit. The original unit had failed every time when I tested it with those utility trailers. But the new (replacement) unit works great. (And since those two utility trailers have different weights and brake sensitivity it is very handy to simply dial in slightly different numbers on the Redarc knob). Though I have not yet towed with our larger travel trailer I did test the connection and it worked perfectly whereas the original unit failed every time. So although I don't know what caused the original unit to go bad once it did all of my attempts to fix the wiring were not successful. And once Redarc confirmed that the readings out of the unit itself were not correct the were very quick about sending me a replacement unit.
I'm having a hard time here. Is this it? I have a 2013 LX and the photos I have seen, none seem to match up to what mine looks like.
Stuck on where to connect. This is directly behind the panel of features on the left hand side above the coin tray. It's the only brown tape I'm seeing.
Stuck on where to connect. This is directly behind the panel of features on the left hand side above the coin tray. It's the only brown tape I'm seeing.
Below and just to the back of that orange plug there should be another rectangular white plug in a holder socket. Release it from the holder (small clip on bottom/left of plug pulls down slightly to release it if I recall correctly) and that should be your trailer harness plug. Or at least that's where I found it on my '15 LX. I also did not see any obvious "brown tape" connectors.
Tomorrow my 2015 Lexus LX 570 will be 1 week old to me. I have been trying for 2 days, well 5 or 6 hours to locate the thus far elusive plug. Can anyone put my finger on it. Sorry to be a dunce. A huge thank you to anyone who can describe the area/ quadrant, etc, it is located in and what is close to it, etc. Right now I am very confused and feeling very foolish! Thanks for your patienice.
the external 7 pin is under the bumper to the right side of the spare between the spare and the tie down point. If it's not there, it's possible it was not installed at the port like it's supposed to be
the internal trailer brake controller plug is under the dash, along the driver's kick panel but way up high. You'll need photos to locate that as it LOOKS like it's connected but it's actually in an empty "dummy" plug slot with no pins and will pop right out.
WOW immediately after my questions above I read gboulton also above. Should have read it first! Tomorrow I will try again with the picture and description. Hopefully my luck will be better! My thanks to gboulton!
Thanks for your prompt response. I will try again tomorrow with a little confidence. THANK YOU!
THANK YOU GENTLEMEN.! Your help and direction enabled me to find "the" PLUG. I had a bit of contorting to do with these old hands, but I made it and my Brake Controller is hooked up and it said what it was supposed to when I plugged in the unit. THANKS Again!!! I do appreciate the guidance.
Rusto
SILVER Star
This thread saved me. Couldnt find the connector on my 2013 200 for the life of me. MUD to the rescue.
Now we’re cruising along on the way to the North Rim on the Grand Canyon in the 200 instead on our old Sequoia with everything hooked up as it should be.
Now we’re cruising along on the way to the North Rim on the Grand Canyon in the 200 instead on our old Sequoia with everything hooked up as it should be.
Just installed a Tekonsha P3 with the vehicle specific harness for my 2011 LX570. Thanks to everyone's info in this thread, it was straightforward. The LX570 has a "coin cubby" to the left of the steering wheel and I followed the lead of others and put the controller there.
Here's all the stuff that needs to be removed. It's just two screws and two 10mm bolts -- the rest are clips.
Here is what the controller-end of the harness looks like with the ground wire hanging out by itself:
I chose to tuck the ground wire into the loom/covering and re-tape it so all the wires are together:
Here's a shot of the top side of the "coin cubby" with the sprung latch mechanism removed.
Here's a shot after enlarging the opening. I gave it a generous slot to allow the wire harness to be easily pushed-into and pulled-out-of the coin cubby while using the brake controller.
I've reached the picture limit for this post, so I'll add a second post.
Here's all the stuff that needs to be removed. It's just two screws and two 10mm bolts -- the rest are clips.
Here is what the controller-end of the harness looks like with the ground wire hanging out by itself:
I chose to tuck the ground wire into the loom/covering and re-tape it so all the wires are together:
Here's a shot of the top side of the "coin cubby" with the sprung latch mechanism removed.
Here's a shot after enlarging the opening. I gave it a generous slot to allow the wire harness to be easily pushed-into and pulled-out-of the coin cubby while using the brake controller.
I've reached the picture limit for this post, so I'll add a second post.
Here's a shot of the "coin cubby" with the wire harness routed through the back:
This shot shows the grounding point for the harness (that point had less than 100 milliohms of resistance from the negative battery terminal):
I added a zip tie "pull tab" to the connector to allow disconnection without needing a screwdriver or a fingernail etc.
Regarding the mounting of controller in the "coin cubby", it's possible to wedge materials to make it secure, but I intend to 3D print a holder that nests inside the "coin cubby" and points the screen of the controller upward a bit.
This shot shows the grounding point for the harness (that point had less than 100 milliohms of resistance from the negative battery terminal):
I added a zip tie "pull tab" to the connector to allow disconnection without needing a screwdriver or a fingernail etc.
Regarding the mounting of controller in the "coin cubby", it's possible to wedge materials to make it secure, but I intend to 3D print a holder that nests inside the "coin cubby" and points the screen of the controller upward a bit.
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Nice work
