Trailer Brake Controller Connector (2 Viewers)

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I am always surprised when I read that people have used the manual lever for anything more than checking the trailer brakes when starting out. What is the reason you may “need” to brake the trailer? FYI, I’ve been driving trucks ( not semis) since ‘67 and have over 10,000 miles pulling a ‘27 foot trailer in the last two years.

I'd equate the manual trailer brakes to the emergency braking lever of the vehicle. I don't know many to have ever used it. But most would agree that it should be there within easy reach for that rare, hope it never happens, occasion.

That said, I do personally use mine, both the e-brake and the trailer brakes. Advanced technique if you will.

I've used the e-brake on my sports cars to drift, and the need to scrub speed situation when I police car is in view of my rear lights. Dumb reasons for sure, but I've used it on occasion. Not recommended as one could put their car in an uncontrolled spin if they don't know what they're doing.

Back on topic with the manual trailer brakes. I've certainly used them in tight mountain switchback roads where I absolutely want to be sure the trailer is not surging on the tow vehicle as I come into a turn, perhaps a bit hot. And at times in very high winds, when coming over a hill crest downhill into open cross winds, to make sure the hitch is in tension, and ensuring the rig is stable. I will say again it's an advanced technique. My setup is stable and I know my brake bias is correct between the tow vehicle and trailer. But it does offer a margin of safety if one knows what they're doing. Like the e-brake above, I don't recommend it for everyone as there's a certain understanding to using it. But better to have used it with practice, before that rare unexpected situation. My 2 cents.
 
The manual brake lever is useful when the trailer starts swaying. e.g. you pass a semi or don't watch your speed and go to fast and the trailer starts wobbling.

Basically brake the trailer with the lever, but not your truck, and the entire rig goes straight as an arrow.
 
I am always surprised when I read that people have used the manual lever for anything more than checking the trailer brakes when starting out. What is the reason you may “need” to brake the trailer? FYI, I’ve been driving trucks ( not semis) since ‘67 and have over 10,000 miles pulling a ‘27 foot trailer in the last two years.

I have not used the manual lever other than adjusting/testing the trailer brakes. That's a good thing! Like all vehicle safety features, I hope I never have to. But, in an emergency trailer sway situation or if the trailer ever skidded sideways on a gravel/wet road, using the manual brake level should bring it back under control more quickly and more safely than doing anything else.
 
Does anyone have any personal experience between the Redarc and the P3? (Used both of them in their cruiser? I'm shopping now as I'm renting a few Airsrreams this summer and would prefer to do it right the first time. I haven't read a single negative review about the Redarc and am inclined to go that direction.
 
I've researched the the Redarc enough, as I am interested in its aesthetic advantages, that I'm pretty comfortable with the differences.

It's a really tough decision. I don't care about the money that I'd be willing to change my setup from the P3 to a Redarc. But I'm just not there because the P3 has 2 distinct advantages that I believe keep me in that camp: boost braking feature, and more ergonomic manual braking.

If I didn't already have the P3, I may have very well gone the Redarc route. It seems to be a bit "smarter" in that it may just make the boost braking feature of the P3 not as compelling. But I don't have any factual information to back that up.

The Redarc does have an interesting manual braking mode for off-road use. Though I think the Prodigy can just as easily replicate this with reduced gain and boost.
 
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Does anyone have any personal experience between the Redarc and the P3? (Used both of them in their cruiser? I'm shopping now as I'm renting a few Airsrreams this summer and would prefer to do it right the first time. I haven't read a single negative review about the Redarc and am inclined to go that direction.

I really like the action, diagnostics, and readout of the P3, but finding a mounting place in the 200 was a pain. In my 100, it fit great in the ashtray slot and lived there. I moved it to my 200 and spent most of a weekend finding a spot and mounting it. If I had to do it over again, I would be very tempted to go with the Redarc just for the clean mounting.
 
Teckis and Jamey, thanks, I understand better now. It has been my experience that the “boost” or whatever the P3 calls it adds enough initial braking to bring the vehicles in the proper relationship that Teckis (sp) describes without my input but I understand what you mean. I have found that touching the pedal engages the boost feature at least as fast as I could find the lever and apply the proper amount of brake pressure. I think that pulling my boat trailer with surge brakes has taught me, rightly or wrongly, to apply the truck brakes and wait for the trailer brakes to engage before applying more pedal. I couldn’t imagine feeling comfortable taking my hand off the wheel and trying to modulate the trailer brakes, apply the proper pressure on the truck and steer out of the situation so I agree completely with Teckis that it is an advanced maneuver.
Sandroad, I have ever heard anyone suggest that the best way to come out of a skid by applying brakes. That is how I initiated an e brake turn in my younger days. ABS ruined that one.
P3 for me. Mounted where the one in Post #19 shows it.
 
I moved it to my 200 and spent most of a weekend finding a spot and mounting it. If I had to do it over again, I would be very tempted to go with the Redarc just for the clean mounting.

Ditto. I have a Primus IQ that works well, but the mounting is sketchy IMO on the 200 and it's a bit of a stretch to reach down for it. I'm very tempted to buy the Redarc just to clean up the dash and make it easier to use.

Then my next complaint will be how I'm running out of available blanks in the 200 dash...
 
Ditto. I have a Primus IQ that works well, but the mounting is sketchy IMO on the 200 and it's a bit of a stretch to reach down for it. I'm very tempted to buy the Redarc just to clean up the dash and make it easier to use.

Then my next complaint will be how I'm running out of available blanks in the 200 dash...

Pretty much, my 2015 has that headlight adjusting wheel in the previously posted picture spot.
 
Just posting that I've had good experience with the Redarc controller. No problems and easy to adjust. I chose it primarily for its low profile and installation options. It's always installed as well. If I used a traditional controller zip tied to the bottom of my dash I'd be removing it when not towing - so re-installation would be an added nuisance.
 
Pretty much, my 2015 has that headlight adjusting wheel in the previously posted picture spot.
Do you ever use that wheel?

Personally I am seriously tempted to just disconnect that and the parking sensors if I ever run out of blanks

Speaking of headlights, on my 2013 I noticed the driver's side is aimed slightly higher than the passenger's side. I thought the aim was usually the opposite - the P/S was aimed higher and straight ahead while the D/S is aimed slightly lower and to the right in order to avoid blinding oncoming drivers. Wondering if mine were aimed using the Aussie/RHD specs.
 
Do you ever use that wheel?

Personally I am seriously tempted to just disconnect that and the parking sensors if I ever run out of blanks

Speaking of headlights, on my 2013 I noticed the driver's side is aimed slightly higher than the passenger's side. I thought the aim was usually the opposite - the P/S was aimed higher and straight ahead while the D/S is aimed slightly lower and to the right in order to avoid blinding oncoming drivers. Wondering if mine were aimed using the Aussie/RHD specs.

Good point. I have been flashed at, post lift, for bright headlights so I ran it down a notch. I guess with a trailer behind me, it would provide useful to aim the lights lower but I have no idea what the "correct" position would be. The owners manual has settings for how many people are in the truck but that's all thrown out the window with a lift and a trailer.
 
What is the part number for the tekonsha p3 adapter for the oem wiring on 09 Lx- tekonsha 3017-P?
 
Thanks for the write up. I've also got a 17 and I was getting ready to order this controller and a wiring harness like you got from Tekonsha. But I found this trailer brake jumper harness in the rear side compartment that I assume I can use this to connect to the brown taped connector under the dash. However:

  1. There are 5 wires on this harness; only 4 on the RedArc controller. The harness has:
    1. Black: Fused Trailer Brake Controller Battery Feed
    2. Green: Headlamp Switch to Vehicle Tail Lamps
    3. Green-Yellow: Vehicle Stop Lamp Switch to Brake Controller (Input)
    4. White-Black: Trailer Ground
    5. Yellow: Trailer Electric Brake Feed From Brake Controller (Output)
Stupid question - which wire do I not use? Understand 1 & 3 for battery connection just not 100% sure which two for lights and brakes.
View attachment 1515192
What did you find out? I have the same question.
 
New to this. I am getting ready to wire up harness. Harness that came from Lexus is 5 wire.
Yellow
Black
White
Green white
Green yellow.

New harness is 4 wire.

How did you wire this?
 
Just got mine installed.

XLK1bD8.jpg
 
Just got mine installed.

XLK1bD8.jpg
Haha, I’m sitting with mine in my lap, reading the installation manual. Redarc’s for everyone! I need to get this installed to go pick up a Kimberley Kamper.
 

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