Trail Tailor Offerings- Racks, Sliders, Control Arms and Misc (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Nice!!! Yeah I know for sure that I need the diff drop and links, the Rear UCA/LCA at a 1.5" lift I don't know that I need YET. Of more concern is the front UCAs that are likely the source of my squeak I keep hearing (either the ball joint moving or the bushings) and since I will be in there I will likely just do the lower ball joints (which are supposed to be easier).
 
Nice!!! Yeah I know for sure that I need the diff drop and links, the Rear UCA/LCA at a 1.5" lift I don't know that I need YET. Of more concern is the front UCAs that are likely the source of my squeak I keep hearing (either the ball joint moving or the bushings) and since I will be in there I will likely just do the lower ball joints (which are supposed to be easier).

Does anyone know if there are some instructions or video about how to properly setup the adjustable rear UCAs and LCAs?
 
AND................... The 100 series SAS kit is born..

This set up is going in my ELE rig for a final test fit. 4" Trail Tailor TourFlex tapered wire coils, 9 stage adjustable EXTENDED 45mm bore Tough Dog foamcells, XHD steering stabilizer, 105 5 lug Toyota hubs (NO WHEEL ADAPTERS HERE), Aisin freewheel hubs, Nitro/RCV axles, 105 rotors, 100 ceramic coat calipers and Akebono ceramic pads, 80 radius arms and bushes, 4:88s, ARB air locker, 80 box, custom steering shaft and joints and the new Trail Tailor bracket kit with frame strengthening plates and steering box sleeves.

(Tough Dog adjustable panhards not pictured)

J

View attachment 2383325View attachment 2383326View attachment 2383327View attachment 2383328View attachment 2383329

looks awesome!
 
Can you check the internal thread inside the control arm itself, to see if the threads are damaged or if there potentially powdercoat overspray that is covering the threading?

I put some grease on while assembling to prevent rust and that also help lubricate when assembling my control arms from TT. But for both my upper and lower control arms, I could assemble them using only my fingers.
 
It took some meat to get it threaded the first time on all of mine. I put one end in a vice and turned. Work it back and forth. I may have used some WD40 or similar as well.

Same. Grease it up and work it back and forth, no issues.
 
@OwnerCS

What I did was jack up the rear of my truck and place it on jack stands and blocked the front wheels. Do not remove all 4 control arms at once! But do one at a time, as there will be much wailing and gnashing of teeth to get everything installed again.

I would measure center of the eyelet to center of the eyelet on your OEM control arms. Then match your TT links (again measuring center of the eyelet to eyelet). Then add 1/8" to 1/4" to this length as a start based on your lift. I have Jason's tough dog lift kit, and I think I went with 1/8" increase. I couldn't get 1/4" for the life of me.

I also grease each of the joints before installing. The excess grease will help the control arm joints slide into place.

You may need to use a pry bar to realign the eyelets and put the bolt it. I had to use a rubber mallet to tap a few of the joints in place so that the bolt could go through. I also moved my jack from side to side and had to cycle it up and down to get the control arms in.
 
It looked like one of the threads was flattened somehow. I just don't want to force it and damage the threads on the joint. I'm returning it to get them to chase the threads.


A little blasting sand in the threads was all it was.

J
 
Couple of rears getting going.

J

IMG_20200810_120214132.jpg


Milled a few hitch receivers and accessory receivers

IMG_20200810_121907652_HDR.jpg
IMG_20200810_121904742_HDR.jpg



And more Creeper skid crossmembers are done and ready to start another batch.

IMG_20200810_121901799.jpg
 
I know the website says the creeper comes bare only but do you plan on doing powdercoated batches like before?
 
Any tips for installing the creeper? Is it just remove the old part and bolt it the creeper back on like the factory front/fiber skid? On the 80's creeper thread they supported the TC with a jack, not sure if that is the same on the 100's.
 
Last edited:
Any tips for installing the creeper? Is it just remove the old part and bolt it the creeper back on like the factory front/fiber skid? On the 80's creeper thread they supported the TC with a jack, not sure if that is the same on the 100's.
Exactly, support the transfer case and swap it out.

I put a jack at the rear TC pinion flange and swap it out.

J
 
Just placed an order for front / rear arm links
 
How much are the rear bumper offerings i never saw it on the website.
 
Just installed the creeper. Do as @TRAIL TAILOR said, use a jack to support the rear TC pinion flange then remove the original support and bolt on the creeper. The torque specs are 37lbs for the 8 bolts and 54lbs for the 2 nuts.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom