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They work fine, found them to be about the same amount of fiddly, don't really see the advantage over the stock setup?
Trail gear spindle lock nut
- Thread starter ajax1
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They work fine, found them to be about the same amount of fiddly, don't really see the advantage over the stock setup?
I installed my driver's side today and had the same problem. What year is your 80? Mine's a '94. Can't be that the spindle's slightly larger diameter because the locknut went on fine. I also had to file the lockwasher tab. We'll see how passenger side goes tomorrow.
Edit: I just realized that it could be the spindle if you have same year or close. The locking groove in the spindle is not as deep as other's that had no problem.
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93. Driver was tight, passenger was tighter. My guess is that trailgears QA is sloppy.
Could be, or as I edited my post, our spindles are slightly different than later models. If the locking groove on our spindles is shallower, it could cause this. Thanks for the reply!
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
Done a few of the stock setup, never come across any spindle size differences over the years
Burrs on the nut thread, or distortion on the lock tab?
Regards
Dave
Made in China.
Cool, must be a TG QC issue, then.
Nope. I just grabbed the passenger side spindle and TG kit. Same issue - tabs are too long and will need to be trimmed down. From the pics below you can see that the tab is not allowing the washers to be centered on the spindle. Filing the tabs to a shorter length is needed to install.
It's good to see this. I need to know what to expect when I get ready to install.
Yeah, just file enough off to get it to fit on the spindle. Don't get carried away. Not much filing is needed. Baby steps...lol. I contacted Trail Gear with details to correct this issue.
I think the "stock" tabbed washer has too much play, and that's why I have one side that keeps loosening. I think the tab is sliding over the threads. I will need to confirm when I take it apart soon. The stock washer is also MUCH thinner than this one, so having two threads interference instead of just one will help stop rotation as well.
I'm installing the TG Chromoly Spindle Nut Kit (300519-KIT) now. Should the goal be a fully locked/immobilized spindle nut? Instructions do not address this.
The lock ring's tab is narrower than its spindle groove, so once everything is screwed together the spindle nut/lock ring assembly can still walk fore/aft for the tiny difference between the tab and spindle groove widths. I've spent a couple hours trying to get it locked down tight.
I suppose the tab would naturally end up at the "loose/safe" side of the spindle groove, but something just doesn't feel right about NOT having the bearing stack positively located - like the original jam nut/bent lock tab system does. And wouldn't the locking tab possibly fatigue if it walked in the groove?
Appreciate any insights.
The lock ring's tab is narrower than its spindle groove, so once everything is screwed together the spindle nut/lock ring assembly can still walk fore/aft for the tiny difference between the tab and spindle groove widths. I've spent a couple hours trying to get it locked down tight.
I suppose the tab would naturally end up at the "loose/safe" side of the spindle groove, but something just doesn't feel right about NOT having the bearing stack positively located - like the original jam nut/bent lock tab system does. And wouldn't the locking tab possibly fatigue if it walked in the groove?
Appreciate any insights.
I just got these Trail Gear chromoly spindle nuts, but have not installed yet.
Observation: There are manufacturing quality deficits in the finishing, done too quickly, but the basic machining is OK.
Some hand re-work was required to get the lock-ring through holes to line up with the lock-nut threaded holes.
- As received, the M3.0x0.5x10 retainer screws would not thread into the lock-nut, as if the holes were misaligned.
I almost sent them back as defective...
Recommended hand re-work :
1) Run a tap through the threaded lock-nut holes to clean up the final finish chamfer burrs.
Then everything lines up OK. Everyone has an M3x0.5 tap laying around, right?
2) Clean up the burrs on the main lock-nut spindle thread chamfer.
Some delicate work with a Dremel fine sanding drum, maybe a little hand sanding.
3) Flat sand / planerize all the flat mating surfaces a bit - a sheet of 600 grit wet-or-dry on a flat surface.
4) Clean up the lock-ring tab edges where there is some laser cut swarf - fine details.
I found the M3.0x0.5x10 button head cap screws at my local Ace Hardware - Buy 10 and keep handy.
I'm pretty convinced this is an improvement over the stock double lock-nut arrangement.
It provides a more stable support to apply pressure to the roller bearing race, will yield less under load.
The stock stock double lock-nuts are each half as thick, and they are tightened against each other, so, only one of them is applying preload pressure to the race. The threads have tolerance slop, are made out of soft steel, and are only about 2-3 threads deep. So, there isn't much averaging going on to even out variations in exact thread engagement. Under the leverage of a big tire, how much will these 2-3 threads deform? Some.
The Trail Gear nut is twice as thick and all the threads are load bearing against the race - more evening out of tolerances, and a stronger material too.
Observation: There are manufacturing quality deficits in the finishing, done too quickly, but the basic machining is OK.
Some hand re-work was required to get the lock-ring through holes to line up with the lock-nut threaded holes.
- As received, the M3.0x0.5x10 retainer screws would not thread into the lock-nut, as if the holes were misaligned.
I almost sent them back as defective...
Recommended hand re-work :
1) Run a tap through the threaded lock-nut holes to clean up the final finish chamfer burrs.
Then everything lines up OK. Everyone has an M3x0.5 tap laying around, right?
2) Clean up the burrs on the main lock-nut spindle thread chamfer.
Some delicate work with a Dremel fine sanding drum, maybe a little hand sanding.
3) Flat sand / planerize all the flat mating surfaces a bit - a sheet of 600 grit wet-or-dry on a flat surface.
4) Clean up the lock-ring tab edges where there is some laser cut swarf - fine details.
I found the M3.0x0.5x10 button head cap screws at my local Ace Hardware - Buy 10 and keep handy.
I'm pretty convinced this is an improvement over the stock double lock-nut arrangement.
It provides a more stable support to apply pressure to the roller bearing race, will yield less under load.
The stock stock double lock-nuts are each half as thick, and they are tightened against each other, so, only one of them is applying preload pressure to the race. The threads have tolerance slop, are made out of soft steel, and are only about 2-3 threads deep. So, there isn't much averaging going on to even out variations in exact thread engagement. Under the leverage of a big tire, how much will these 2-3 threads deform? Some.
The Trail Gear nut is twice as thick and all the threads are load bearing against the race - more evening out of tolerances, and a stronger material too.
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Seems to me that the torque preload has a bit of "extra" available to sacrifice while the lock-nut, under pressure / flex / vibration will work its way outward until the tab slack is taken up. The bearing / washer / lock-nut / lock-ring will only move outward, until it cannot anymore. But it will never migrate inward. So it won't rattle back and forth. I think.
Yep, thanks. What I called the "loose/safe" side (safe meaning no additional bearing preload) is the outward most travel you describe.
It still bugs me - I don't think I've ever left a wheel bearing as "done" that had a locking system with this kind of inherent play. I'll call TG tomorrow and see what they say.
It still bugs me - I don't think I've ever left a wheel bearing as "done" that had a locking system with this kind of inherent play. I'll call TG tomorrow and see what they say.
Trail Gear 's tech assist rep said it's OK for the locking ring's tab to move in the spindle groove as long as I was sure it would stay in the groove. He also said I could MIG weld a little extra material to the tab, then file it for an exact fit if I couldn't stand the slop. So that's what I did. I also replaced the supplied 3mm socket head screws (2.5mm tool) with lower height button head socket cap screws (2mm tool). Really like the result.
