trail gear sas and rear lift blocks (1 Viewer)

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86-95 frames are 1.5" taller than 79-85 frames at the front spring hanger. TG hanger gives a 2" drop. Plus 3" springs sit 1-2" taller when new.

That's a 7.5-8.5" front lift.

I'll bet your rear springs are sagged, meaning you'll need a 5-7" lift block PLUS a 2" add a leaf to level the truck.
 
Wow $13 a spring! Do that if possible. Your 3" SAS is going to sit alot higher. Look around here and pirate forums and you'll see the 3" ends up more like 5". If you just really dont want to mess with it do the blocks. You'll be fine just check ubolts when you rotate tires or change oil/ grease everything. Also keep check on hi steer arms. I have ran 2" steel blocks and beat on them in the woods. No rocks but still had to keep eye on ubolts. Good luck. I would just go ahead with a spring swap for that cheap. Down here its 75-150 for set of springs. I have personally done a set of 63s and that replaced stock leaves and blocks. Netted about4" lift and awesome ride and flex. Well worth the day of easy fab.

...via IH8MUD app
 
U can buy kits on TG for frame box in kit..
And on sky manufacturing they have a kit with all the mounting brackets,shocks,ubolt flip kit etc...for the 63's.. That's the 2 kits I got and love my 63 Chevy springs it's worth the time!

The 63" Chevy springs came in the 1988 to 20?? Chevy 1500 pick ups. Can find them pick and pulls all day long!

http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=TOY-CSPMLK-001


Sent from my iPhone on the road.
 
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I was thinking of doing the chevy 63s or f150 springs but kept hearing more cons then pros. And I read in numerous places that u only get about 2 or 3 inches of lift from them anyways
 
There may be negatives but not over stock springs with blocks. 63s are long and can hang up in rocks, f150s address that problem. Most end up with a traction bar, but your not wheeling hard so doubt you'll need one...no more than adding blocks. Really no neg over blocks.

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Can anyone give me a list of everything I need to do an f150 or chevy leaf swap?
Year of rigs they come off?
Parts list?
Amount of lift I will get?
Can I keep the spring perches in stock location on my axle?
 
You'll need:

Spring hangers, shackle mounts, a ubolt flip kit (or make your own), and the knowledge to weld in the hangers/shackle mounts. It's an easy day of work and they make kits you can buy for ~100$ish that has everything.

I did 63" Chevy springs. Will never do them again. I would recommend f150 springs from an early 90s 4x4. Make sure they are 2.5" wide. I would do the 4+1, which is four regular leafs and one overload for the most lift. 3-5" lift with all the variables.
 
The only good thing I have heard about chevy springs is the flex. Everything else I've read pretty much states that they suck. Does anyone make kits for the f 150 springs? I can get leaf springs for 13 bucks a side where I go. Seriously considering doing this. Could anyone tell me how far forward to mount the hanger? And how far back I have to move the shackle mount?
 
The only good thing I have heard about chevy springs is the flex. Everything else I've read pretty much states that they suck. Does anyone make kits for the f 150 springs? I can get leaf springs for 13 bucks a side where I go. Seriously considering doing this. Could anyone tell me how far forward to mount the hanger? And how far back I have to move the shackle mount?

Well idk y ppl say they suck I like my 63's but they are long. But with that said I have no problem other than my shackle scrub a rock every now and then.

I can't tell u an exact measurement bc u are doing it on a older truck and not using 63 but when I did my 63's we made a plumb bob out of sum fishing line and a large weight... Hang the weight off the frame right over the top of ur leaf spring center bolts make sure it's right over them! Then take axel out with out moving them so make sure they are secure we used tape as well as tied it on the frame... Now use ur plumb and new leaf springs ( line up new f150 or 63 springs center bolt to ur plumb bob) that will show u where ur front mount needs to be. I had to tack my rear mounts up where I read to put them but it was wrong so I u bolted axel to leaves rolled it under truck and bolted leaves to front hangers.. Checking again that axel was in the right spot. I then moved rear mounts where I wanted them and welded them on it was done!!!

I'm sure the kit I posted a link to above will work with f150 springs. I think they are the same width as 63. Correct me if I'm wrong plz!

Sent from my iPhone on the road.
 
Look at pirate4x4 in toy section at the toy bible 2.0. Has every answer to your questions.

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I did look at that on pirate. Didn't see anything about a company making a kit for f150 springs. Oh and I do wheel my pickup quite a bit on nasty rutted out trails but I don't wheel on rocks. So I can't figure out what I should do with the rear. That being said I know people are going to tell me I don't need a sas but after driving my buddys 84 pickup when we were last wheeling, I realized I would be much better off with sas, instead of just throwing in some lockers on my ifs. His open diff sa walked all over my ifs on the more technical stuff.
 
Hanger kits will work on both. Decide what spring you want to use and all that differs is mounting location.

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Do I have to relocate the spring perches on the axle if I go with f150 springs? I would rather keep them in stock location. And what year of ford truck do I take them off?
 
Do I have to relocate the spring perches on the axle if I go with f150 springs? I would rather keep them in stock location. And what year of ford truck do I take them off?

The years for the f150 was stated earlier in this thread. I think it's the late 90's... Don't hold me to that.

NO you do NOT have to move the perches...

Sent from my iPhone on the road.
 
What would you guys think about about a double shackle setup and f150 springs? I've heard of people doing it with chevy 63s but not f150s.
 
It doesn't work the same. Double shackles are a cheap fix for using stock shackle mount with 63s. Not recommended at all.

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Is it not recommended for the f150 springs or the 63s? Or just all together?
 
At all. They can cause problems on and off road.

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Is it not recommended for the f150 springs or the 63s? Or just all together?

All around not recommended. They unload when going downhill, making for a scary situation.

When talking about the springs hanging up on the rocks: remember that there isn't much of a difference between the Chevy's and the Ford Springs.

Chevy 63's: Front Spring Eye to Center Pin: 31.5" Center Pin to Rear Spring Eye: 31.5"
Ford F150's: Front Spring Eye to Center Pin: 25" Center Pin to Rear Spring Eye: 31.5"

So the only difference between the springs is that the Ford springs mount 6.5" closer to the axle. The overhang off the rear is the same.

As far as mounting the springs: the Chevy springs use 9/16" bolts on each eye. The Ford springs use a 5/8" bolt on the front eye and a 9/16" bolt on the rear eye.

If I were in your shoes, I'd save money by skipping the trail gear 3" front springs and build a rear-up-front spring pack. Then run a set of Chevy 63's out back. Depending on how heavy your truck is will depend on if you need a 3 leaf, 4 leaf, or 5 leaf pack.

If you really want to get cheap, here is how to junk-yard piece together a SAS:

Front:
Hanger: http://www.datinfab.com/toyotafrontspringhanger-1.aspx
Shackle: http://www.davezoffroadperformance....springs/front-1/no-death-wobble-shackles.html
Front Springs: Buy a pair of 79-83 Toyota rear springs from the wrecking yard to mix with your stock rear springs: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/265669-rear-up-front-faq.html
Front Shackle Tubes: http://www.datinfab.com/frametubesandjigs.aspx
Shock Mounts: Grab these off a 80's F250 at the wrecking yard, or new: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-F-250-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4acf628993&vxp=mtr
Steering:http://www.davezoffroadperformance.com/store/high-steer-kit.html
Drive Shaft: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=14915.0
Steering Knuckle Studs (qty:4): http://www.datinfab.com/knucklestudhardware.aspx

Rear:
Front Spring Hanger (chevy springs): http://www.davezoffroadperformance.com/store/rear-sloped-spring-hanger.html
Rear Spring Hanger: http://www.davezoffroadperformance.com/store/shackle-hanger.html
Rear Shackles: http://www.davezoffroadperformance.com/store/rear-shackles.html
Rear Lower Shock Mount: http://www.davezoffroadperformance.com/store/suspension/lower-shock-mounts.html
UBolt Flip Kit: Wrecking Yard. I grabbed my last one off a 90's 2wd F150.
Springs: 63" Chevy's: Wrecking Yard: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/20665-63-chevy-1-2-ton-spring-swap-faq.html

Front and Rear:
Bumpstops:Wrecking Yard: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-cherokee/987076-totm-bump-stops.html
Shocks: http://www.davezoffroadperformance.com/store/suspension/shocks-hoops-mounts/bilstein-shocks.html
Brake Lines: http://www.datinfab.com/steelbraidedbrakelines.aspx

Hope that helps. You'll be a lot happier with 63" chevy's than keeping the stock springs in the back.
 
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Thanks for the great info! Seems like you've done it before. I was considering piecing together a kit like that, but at the price and completness of the trail gear kit I decided just to buy the full kit. Would the tg kit up front and chevies in the rear be a good combo. Remember tho, I don't wheel on rocks. But I do wheel a lot of trails where the dependablity and flex of a solid axle would be nice to have. So how do u think the combination of the full tg front kit with tg springs, and chevies out back be?
 

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