Traction Control Has Activated While Taking A Curve, Twice in Two Days

[CloudCity]

Did it beep at you for a quick second? Mine did that too, but coincidence, I get a letter from Toyota for a yaw sensor recall. And it fixed the problem. It sits under the center console.

Yaw Sensor recall? When did you receive the notice?

 

[2001LC]

Wondering if wheel bearing checked for play yet?

Keeping in mind: In OP case, Wheel bearings just service, and issue then started. So very likely has to do with that service.

Rambling on as I do..LOL.
Here's what I've seen, heard of or consider possible cause: Somewhat in order of most frequent.
1) loose wheel bearings. (not serviced regularly, preload not set, lock washer not locked, oil seal in backward, lack of grease in hub cavity causing massive damage)
2) Suspension issues, sloppy/bouncy (age related in need of service AHC globes, shock, T-bar adj. even rear coils, etc.)
3) Rack & pinion mounting bushing past useful life.
4) TRE ends (inner and/or outer) shot! Can be hard to make the call while attached to knuckle, unless very bad.
5) Ball joints, shot! Easy to test for.
6) Wheel speed sensor damaged, dead. bad connection (short) or not seated properly. (Typically get a code). I see many, where someone pried out the sensor, which should never be done. This well often crack the case to mount housing. I suppose it could then short during turns or give false signal if sensor moves from fixed position, or if not broken but just seated improperly.
7) Rack & pinion gears. excessive play!
8) Stabilizer system past useful life or damaged.
9) Wheel lug bolts loose.
9) Damage to wheel hub reluctor or metal particles on reluctor or wh spd sensor. (metal practicals most often come from, oil seal installed backward)
10) Zero point calibration. If all else check out. This may need resetting. ( I may have just seen one doing this) We could not find anything sloppy or loose or combo of
11) ABS computer. (Typically get a code) (I've not actually not seen, just heard of)
12) LCA or UCA. Loose bolts or worn out bushing.
13) Water intrusion short. Mostly from improperly installed windshield, which includes rust. Water running down "A' pillar into cabin get in junction, computers, wires housing, etc. We get al kinds of issues.
14) Rodent damage. (chewed wires causing a short)

Any combination of above. I actually had one had near all 14 issue. Anything that make system think, a wheel is spinning at different speed than others, will set off ABS/VSC. Very unsettling and dangerous, if not an actual event where system is working properly and needed!

When any one component of the front or rear (mostly frt), gets sloppy. Say like rack mounting bushing or ball joints. The extra force of the movement, is hard on all other components in area. The longer service is put off, the more other components take a beating and their useful life reduced. We end up with cascading effects, if not addressed early on.

A note on rack bushings. Poly bushing are nice as they last a very long time. But they do transfer more force/impact throughout the frontend. Which is felt in hand on steering wheel. Weak ball joint(s) will go fast as will TRE, with poly's. Rubber bushing (as OEM are) are meant to allow moment to cushion feel and impact to components. The aftermarket rubber bushing use by rebuilders, are softer than OEM. So they can contribute other sloppy components in front end, setting off ABS/VSC more easily.

 

[2001LC]

Not saying it can't be your bearings, but getting preload too tight is more common for me than too loose.

You must be a huge and very strong man, with an incredibly good 54mm socket.

I've yet to ever find any 100 series wheel bearings to tight.

I did see one set in mud, "many speculated" to tight. But I was sure and doubly so, after seeing all pictures posted. Wheel hub cavity were not packed with grease. That will burn up bearings for sure.

I've set preload up to 15lb (FSM limit) even a tad bit higher incidealtal, on non stock setups. Like off-road built, wheel spacer, over sized tires, etc. Where they tend to need servicing more frequently, than the 30K miles stock rigs FSM recommendation.

I've hit as high as 80ft-lbf torque on adjusting nut, at just 12lb preload (very good borken in bearings). Which is very very high torque on adjusting nut. What I've found is they run cooler tighter, than they do lose.

With most 54mm sockets, found in most tool boxes. You be hard pressed to even keep socket on nut over 60ft'lbf.

Yeah same here, same exact thing. Freaked me out. I changed a few things hoping to fix but was just unsure. Then like I said just by coincidence I get the letter to warranty the yaw sensor. Never gone off since. Maybe not related but worth a mention

Yaw Sensor recall? When did you receive the notice?

Darn, I don't recall TSB on that. Please do tell more?

 

[H E A V Y M E T A L]

Yaw Sensor recall? When did you receive the notice?

You must be a huge and very strong man, with an incredibly good 54mm socket.

I've yet to ever find any 100 series wheel bearings to tight.

I did see one set in mud, "many speculated" to tight. But I was sure and doubly so, after seeing all pictures posted. Wheel hub cavity were not packed with grease. That will burn up bearings for sure.

I've set preload up to 15lb (FSM limit) even a tad bit higher incidealtal, on non stock setups. Like off-road built, wheel spacer, over sized tires, etc. Where they tend to need servicing more frequently, than the 30K miles stock rigs FSM recommendation.

I've hit as high as 80ft-lbf torque on adjusting nut, at just 12lb preload (very good borken in bearings). Which is very very high torque on adjusting nut. What I've found is they run cooler tighter, than they do lose.

With most 54mm sockets, found in most tool boxes. You be hard pressed to even keep socket on nut over 60ft'lbf.
Darn, I don't recall TSB on that. Please do tell more?

don't have much to say, I got a letter for a warranty replacement of it. I took it in and they changed it. I figured a bunch of people would have also had it done??

 

[JunkCrzr89]

don't have much to say, I got a letter for a warranty replacement of it. I took it in and they changed it. I figured a bunch of people would have also had it done??

Never heard of that recall

 

[H E A V Y M E T A L]

Yaw Sensor recall? When did you receive the notice?

I can have the dealership pull the time maybe even the notice. Give me a second on that one.

 

[H E A V Y M E T A L]

Never heard of that recall

Huh??? Weird.

 

[meatloaf]

Thanks for the input everyone!

I looked at nhtsa.gov & kkb for recalls on my truck using the VIN and the only thing that pulled up on both sites is a recall for side curtain airbags

 

[meatloaf]

Wondering if wheel bearing checked for play yet?

Keeping in mind: In OP case, Wheel bearings just service, and issue then started. So very likely has to do with that service.

Rambling on as I do..LOL.
Here's what I've seen, heard of or consider possible cause: Somewhat in order of most frequent.
1) loose wheel bearings. (not serviced regularly, preload not set, lock washer not locked, oil seal in backward, lack of grease in hub cavity causing massive damage)
2) Suspension issues, sloppy/bouncy (age related in need of service AHC globes, shock, T-bar adj. even rear coils, etc.)
3) Rack & pinion mounting bushing past useful life.
4) TRE ends (inner and/or outer) shot! Can be hard to make the call while attached to knuckle, unless very bad.
5) Ball joints, shot! Easy to test for.
6) Wheel speed sensor damaged, dead. bad connection (short) or not seated properly. (Typically get a code). I see many, where someone pried out the sensor, which should never be done. This well often crack the case to mount housing. I suppose it could then short during turns or give false signal if sensor moves from fixed position, or if not broken but just seated improperly.
7) Rack & pinion gears. excessive play!
8) Stabilizer system past useful life or damaged.
9) Wheel lug bolts loose.
9) Damage to wheel hub reluctor or metal particles on reluctor or wh spd sensor. (metal practicals most often come from, oil seal installed backward)
10) Zero point calibration. If all else check out. This may need resetting. ( I may have just seen one doing this) We could not find anything sloppy or loose or combo of
11) ABS computer. (Typically get a code) (I've not actually not seen, just heard of)
12) LCA or UCA. Loose bolts or worn out bushing.
13) Water intrusion short. Mostly from improperly installed windshield, which includes rust. Water running down "A' pillar into cabin get in junction, computers, wires housing, etc. We get al kinds of issues.
14) Rodent damage. (chewed wires causing a short)

Any combination of above. I actually had one had near all 14 issue. Anything that make system think, a wheel is spinning at different speed than others, will set off ABS/VSC. Very unsettling and dangerous, if not an actual event where system is working properly and needed!

When any one component of the front or rear (mostly frt), gets sloppy. Say like rack mounting bushing or ball joints. The extra force of the movement, is hard on all other components in area. The longer service is put off, the more other components take a beating and their useful life reduced. We end up with cascading effects, if not addressed early on.

A note on rack bushings. Poly bushing are nice as they last a very long time. But they do transfer more force/impact throughout the frontend. Which is felt in hand on steering wheel. Weak ball joint(s) will go fast as will TRE, with poly's. Rubber bushing (as OEM are) are meant to allow moment to cushion feel and impact to components. The aftermarket rubber bushing use by rebuilders, are softer than OEM. So they can contribute other sloppy components in front end, setting off ABS/VSC more easily.

I will check into some of these this week.

 

[GMSilk_Fj60]

Any closure on this issue? I just recently rebuilt my whole front end after a pinion failure and have the dreaded TRAC/skid warning. It would go off on sweeping right turns and rarely engage the brakes.

Is there a way with the laptop plugged in to see what sensor is reading incorrectly? Is it only a wheel sensor that could cause the skid warning or could there be an issue with the steering shaft position sensor? I've been chasing this problem for a long time now and no silver bullet as of yet...

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Any closure on this issue? I just recently rebuilt my whole front end after a pinion failure and have the dreaded TRAC/skid warning. It would go off on sweeping right turns and rarely engage the brakes.

Is there a way with the laptop plugged in to see what sensor is reading incorrectly? Is it only a wheel sensor that could cause the skid warning or could there be an issue with the steering shaft position sensor? I've been chasing this problem for a long time now and no silver bullet as of yet...

Likely mechanical: steering rack, inner TRE, wheel bearings.

 

[TLCPNW]

I had this happen to me recently as well. I swapped out both the inner and outer tie rod ends about 5-7,000 miles ago (this last June) and noticed a LOT of play in both (why I swapped them).

Luckily it's only happened a few times going on the same right hand turn onramp at about 40+ mph. I guess it hasn't happened since then because I've started to take that turn slower.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Likely mechanical: steering rack, inner TRE, wheel bearings.

I should also add that not having sufficient preload on your torsion bars can also cause this.

 

[GMSilk_Fj60]

@JunkCrzr89 So I take it roll rate can upset the gyro... medium torsion bars and medium OME rear springs + weight from a front and rear bumper may be my issue... The truck really doesnt lean much at all but I guess the sensor knows more than me. This is why I like my 40 and 60. We share the same intelligence.

Edit: I would like to keep ATRAC and ABS but wonder... could I bypass the gyro/tilt meter? Anybody every try it?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

@JunkCrzr89 So I take it roll rate can upset the gyro... medium torsion bars and medium OME rear springs + weight from a front and rear bumper may be my issue... The truck really doesnt lean much at all but I guess the sensor knows more than me. This is why I like my 40 and 60. We share the same intelligence.

Edit: I would like to keep ATRAC and ABS but wonder... could I bypass the gyro/tilt meter? Anybody every try it?

With those TBs and springs, I’d be looking hard for play in the steering rack, inner TRE, and wheel bearings.

I think @nukegoat may have bypassed the hydraulic ABS system, or maybe he was just talking about possibly doing it, I don’t remember. FWIW, some poverty pack 100s had a normal vacuum brake booster, so theoretically you could ditch everything and replace it with a normal setup, but I don’t know if anyone who has done it.

 

[BOGOTA]

Past two weeks , skid control kicks in on right hand loop turns off the highway, brakes slam and scary stuff.
I have replaced the front axles and bearings.

Still same as of yesterday. Today mechanic found 2ofthe bushings to the rack totally shot to hell, ordering the new OEM bushings and hope this solves the issue, will report back.

LX has 250,000 miles

 

[GMSilk_Fj60]

@BOGOTA Thanks. I'll do the same once I go over my 500mile diff break in.

 

[2001LC]

Past two weeks , skid control kicks in on right hand loop turns off the highway, brakes slam and scary stuff.
I have replaced the front axles and bearings.

Still same as of yesterday. Today mechanic found 2ofthe bushings to the rack totally shot to hell, ordering the new OEM bushings and hope this solves the issue, will report back.

LX has 250,000 miles

OEM rack bushing are only available, by buying NEW OEM rack & pinion. The rubber rebuilds use are a little soft, the polys are a little hard, OEM are just right!

Slop in front-end, in some cases rear-end, can give signal to a wheel speed sensor, that it's speed is different than others wheels.

The list is long as to what component(s), can result in slop or setting off TRAC/VSC.
Wheel bearings loose (most common)
Rack & pinion mounting bushing (very common)
Control arm bushing.
Ball joints.
TRE, inner or outer.
Rack & pinion gears, shot.
Stabilizer system.
AHC out of adjustment, to soft.
Bad shocks.
T-bars to loose.
Zero point calibration, not calibrated.

 

[nukegoat]

With those TBs and springs, I’d be looking hard for play in the steering rack, inner TRE, and wheel bearings.

I think @nukegoat may have bypassed the hydraulic ABS system, or maybe he was just talking about possibly doing it, I don’t remember. FWIW, some poverty pack 100s had a normal vacuum brake booster, so theoretically you could ditch everything and replace it with a normal setup, but I don’t know if anyone who has done it.

Easy peasy, just disconnect an ABS sensor and the system won't activate. Or the atrac computer etc

 

[Mike NXP]

OEM rack bushing are only available, by buying NEW OEM rack & pinion. The rubber rebuilds use are a little soft, the polys are a little hard, OEM are just right!

Slop in front-end, in some cases rear-end, can give signal to a wheel speed sensor, that it's speed is different than others wheels.

The list is long as to what component(s), can result in slop or setting off TRAC/VSC.
Wheel bearings loose (most common)
Rack & pinion mounting bushing (very common)
Control arm bushing.
Ball joints.
TRE, inner or outer.
Rack & pinion gears, shot.
Stabilizer system.
AHC out of adjustment, to soft.
Bad shocks.
T-bars to loose.
Zero point calibration, not calibrated.

In my case the OEM rack bushings were tooooo soft =[ Can't justify removing them to install aftermarket.

Even with this much play I don't have any issues with stability control kicking on so other parts are most likely the culprit when people have this problem.
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