Toyuzu Fj60 (Rootbeer Diesel Build)

[bluehawk]

Turn ignition on, truck in neutral, and put power to the solenoid signal post on the starter. If the starter turns the engine over, you have a problem in your wiring harness. If it does not turn over, then your starter solenoid is bad. If it clicks but doesn't turn the engine over, your starter motor or solenoid contacts are bad.

So here is the long story. I went out one day to start up the old girl and she was sluggish. Like the battery was low. Tried to jump her off with the ole diesel truck and no luck. When I tried turning the key again, it didn't make a noise or any clicking sound. Thought it was the battery, pulled it out and put the charger on it and tried starting it again. No luck, no noises, nothing. The lights and horn worked, the only thing that didn't was the ARB compressor. It comes on with the ignition on, but does nothing. Test light showed power to starter at the positive and negative sides. Cleaned all the grounds and positive leads. Still nothing. Took half of the engine bay apart to get the starter out. Had it tested and it is good. Had the alternator checked and its good. Had the battery tested and only showed 12v and around 468cca out of the 750cca's available. So I bought a new battery, this one is 7 years old, installed it and still nothing. The only thing that changed is that ARB compressor now works with the ignition on. I noticed that the in dash clock goes out when trying to start. At the advice of a friend, took the battery out of the Ford F-250 (known good battery) and still nothing. A test light at the ignition switch and the six wires coming out showed good. Still no start or any noise when turning the key.

 

[mjosoba]

I might have missed it. But have you got a Ford starter solenoid, or similar? If not, there could be a short in the ignition wiring? They can’t handle the amps from these long term.

 

[Dallas Cruiser]

Voltage and amperage (current) could be an issue. A bad connection can show the right voltage but not flow enough current to work the circuit. Using a test light only tells you it has enough current to light the test light.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

So here is the long story. I went out one day to start up the old girl and she was sluggish. Like the battery was low. Tried to jump her off with the ole diesel truck and no luck. When I tried turning the key again, it didn't make a noise or any clicking sound. Thought it was the battery, pulled it out and put the charger on it and tried starting it again. No luck, no noises, nothing. The lights and horn worked, the only thing that didn't was the ARB compressor. It comes on with the ignition on, but does nothing. Test light showed power to starter at the positive and negative sides. Cleaned all the grounds and positive leads. Still nothing. Took half of the engine bay apart to get the starter out. Had it tested and it is good. Had the alternator checked and its good. Had the battery tested and only showed 12v and around 468cca out of the 750cca's available. So I bought a new battery, this one is 7 years old, installed it and still nothing. The only thing that changed is that ARB compressor now works with the ignition on. I noticed that the in dash clock goes out when trying to start. At the advice of a friend, took the battery out of the Ford F-250 (known good battery) and still nothing. A test light at the ignition switch and the six wires coming out showed good. Still no start or any noise when turning the key.

Ok, if your starter is good, then you should be able to start it with the method I described. Once it's running, start measuring voltages and whatnot to see if everything seems healthy.

This narrows down your issue to something with the starter solenoid circuit, vs a larger problem with your wire harness, like rodents chewed it up or something.

 

[SAH]

Did this ever come back to life?

 

[bluehawk]

Did this ever come back to life?

Yes it lives again. I’ve been wheeling it quite a bit. Even hit the trails at STLCA’s Great Smokey Mountain Trail Ride.