Wanting to repaint my truck, but also wanting it done right by going with Toyota. What is the average cost for a repaint on one of our trucks done at a stealership?
Last edited:
Toyota cost for repaint?
- Thread starter alkaline747trio
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
It is going to vary. Each Toyota dealer has their own body shop. A lot of the Toyota dealers out west don't even do body work. I would not use a Toyota dealership for paint work unless they were well known for their paint in their own body shop. Otherwise you are just probably paying the middle man.
I want to paint mine Freeborn Red...is there anyway to get this color from Toyota?
Or, would it be more prudent to try to have a paint shop try to match it?
Thanks.
-o-
Or, would it be more prudent to try to have a paint shop try to match it?
Thanks.
-o-
alkaline747trio said:
A top-notch paint job by a quality shop (it does not matter if it is affiliated with a dealer) will exceed the current market value of your 80.
Just the front bumper
Agree with Dan stated i spent almost $1K just to paint the front bumper to match and to make it same as the two tone color.
Agree with Dan stated i spent almost $1K just to paint the front bumper to match and to make it same as the two tone color.
Being a dealership does not mean they will have a good body shop, I have seen the crappy work a Honda dealers body shop did. I think you are just as well off at a good body shop, in fact, it seems many dealers farm out their body work to other body shops.
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2003
- Threads
- 72
- Messages
- 2,945
- Location
- Broomfield, Colorado
- Website
- www.gamiviti.com
What does Metaltech charge? And can you get any color, or just orange? 
alkaline,
Ask around locally about independant shops. You know as well as I do that this area is saturated with hot rod junkies. There has to be some body shops around that will do a much better job than the dealership for the same price maybe less. Also, you could try to negotiate the price down by disassembling your rig yourself. I think most body shops would like to be able to jump right in with body work and not have to go through disassembly. A couple of my neighbors are into hot rods, I could ask around if you want me to.
Ask around locally about independant shops. You know as well as I do that this area is saturated with hot rod junkies. There has to be some body shops around that will do a much better job than the dealership for the same price maybe less. Also, you could try to negotiate the price down by disassembling your rig yourself. I think most body shops would like to be able to jump right in with body work and not have to go through disassembly. A couple of my neighbors are into hot rods, I could ask around if you want me to.
Cruiser804
SILVER Star
Agreed, I know the service manager at the local dealer here and NOVA and he won't send anyone to the the dealer body shop.
Check with you insurance company, depending on who you have. I have USAA and they helped me find a great shop.
Check with you insurance company, depending on who you have. I have USAA and they helped me find a great shop.
Conversly, I got screwed when a USAA guy recommended a guy that turned out to be his buddy and did lousy work. Check out examples of previous work and talk to former customers.
Alka,
Don't know where you are, or how much you want painted.
In N texas there are numerous "complete" paint job levels from frame off every surface that has color to having a new color on the outside skin and original on the door jams, under hood, etc.
I had a reputable shop give me an estimate on mine going back with stock colors (dark metalic green with dark gray bumpers and roof rack), and the estimate was $3200, a bargain in my book for that high a quality job.
CCOT has a guy who does all their work who will do a 40 for a mere $7000, and an 80 for a paultry $9500, if they don't have any rust.
If you have the typical brush related scratches and not too many parking lot dents, I would recommend first doing a "clay bar" treatment, and see if you still want to spend big bucks on a new paint job. I've seen many a paint job saved, scratches removed, shine restored, and money saved with a clay bar treatment.
The kit costs about $40 at most auto paint supply stores, and an 80 will likely need two kits to get r dun. A hard weekend of work will make your rig look good as new.
If that does not work, and if you have deep scratches, a wet sand and new coat of clear by a real good painter will restore it as well. This is about $500-750 at most reputable body shops. Again, depending on other damage like door dings and "trail dents" being minimum.
Can you send pics of your rig?
Don't know where you are, or how much you want painted.
In N texas there are numerous "complete" paint job levels from frame off every surface that has color to having a new color on the outside skin and original on the door jams, under hood, etc.
I had a reputable shop give me an estimate on mine going back with stock colors (dark metalic green with dark gray bumpers and roof rack), and the estimate was $3200, a bargain in my book for that high a quality job.
CCOT has a guy who does all their work who will do a 40 for a mere $7000, and an 80 for a paultry $9500, if they don't have any rust.
If you have the typical brush related scratches and not too many parking lot dents, I would recommend first doing a "clay bar" treatment, and see if you still want to spend big bucks on a new paint job. I've seen many a paint job saved, scratches removed, shine restored, and money saved with a clay bar treatment.
The kit costs about $40 at most auto paint supply stores, and an 80 will likely need two kits to get r dun. A hard weekend of work will make your rig look good as new.
If that does not work, and if you have deep scratches, a wet sand and new coat of clear by a real good painter will restore it as well. This is about $500-750 at most reputable body shops. Again, depending on other damage like door dings and "trail dents" being minimum.
Can you send pics of your rig?
One of the more reputable body shops in town (here in Torrance, CA) quoted $4-5k for a full repaint.
- Thread starter
- #13
I was thinking about going with a whole new color, but seeing these numbers is making me rethink it. How much would/should/could a shop charge for the "clay bar" treatment? Would the watsand/clear coat be worth my money?
semlin
curmudgeon
get some clay and do it yourself. It is not much harder than washing it. somewhere in the faq is a guide to detailing your truck including links for the detail clay. read it and then get some 3m products. it will work wonders.
Had a buddy who's body shop contracted with a few dealerships. Dealer supplies volume, body shop supplies cheap price to dealer. The customer (you) does not get the savings. But the customer does get the high-throughput-type quality...if you know what I mean.
A "correct" complete re-finish, performed by a professional body shop, for a vehicle like an 80 series Cruiser, would easily exceed five thousand dollars. If somebody tells you it's less than that, they are lying to your face.
IF it's less than that, take them up NOW and get a guarantee in writing........
IF it's less than that, take them up NOW and get a guarantee in writing........
Correct bodywork is an art and is very labor intensive. Any commercial shop will need to charge a substantial amount for the work unless they have some kind of advantage, I.E. low overhead. It makes no difference if you deal with the dealer or aftermarket. There are costs involved that cannot be avoided. Even if the shop does not have to pay rent or mortgage for the space, the cost of supporting a competent bodyman is high. He has kids to feed just like you do.
The only downside of your preference for older, stronger vehicles is that you may have to be happy with the color that you get. Unless you want to learn to paint your own, you may not have a cost-effective choice without resorting to shoddy work. There are really no short cuts.
My truck is green. It was green when I got it, and green it will be. Green is not my favorite color, and I often see white 80's that I like better. But I do my own bodywork and even I refuse to do the work involved in a dramatic color change. Green is good!
The only change that I made was to go from the multi-stage metallic paint to a non-metallic single color that does not clash too much with the doorjambs. This is practical. Changing from green to orange or yellow or anything else would not be realistic. I would rather spend the money on a winch or a lift, or anything else that is useful.
The only downside of your preference for older, stronger vehicles is that you may have to be happy with the color that you get. Unless you want to learn to paint your own, you may not have a cost-effective choice without resorting to shoddy work. There are really no short cuts.
My truck is green. It was green when I got it, and green it will be. Green is not my favorite color, and I often see white 80's that I like better. But I do my own bodywork and even I refuse to do the work involved in a dramatic color change. Green is good!
The only change that I made was to go from the multi-stage metallic paint to a non-metallic single color that does not clash too much with the doorjambs. This is practical. Changing from green to orange or yellow or anything else would not be realistic. I would rather spend the money on a winch or a lift, or anything else that is useful.
