Toyota 4.7 HELP! Multiple Misfire Codes (P300, + 8,6,2,7,5) *UPDATE* Motor Blown, Hole in Block

[dnp]

Man, really sorry to hear about this! Definitely an aberration. NEVER heard of that happening to a 2UZ that wasn't run hot or low on oil. They're, otherwise, good for an easy 750,000 miles (or more.)

Unless you know of a better local option for you, search on www.car-part.com. There are PLENTY of affordable, low(er) mileage 2UZs out there.

I've got 325,000 miles on my 2000 100, and it's quiet as a mouse (well, I guess that wasn't a good reference on this thread.) It's quiet, uses ZERO oil, has ZERO leaks, and I'd drive it cross-country tomorrow.

Good luck with your fix.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Man, really sorry to hear about this! Definitely an aberration. NEVER heard of that happening to a 2UZ that wasn't run hot or low on oil. They're, otherwise, good for an easy 750,000 miles (or more.)

Unless you know of a better local option for you, search on www.car-part.com. There are PLENTY of affordable, low(er) mileage 2UZs out there.

I've got 325,000 miles on my 2000 100, and it's quiet as a mouse (well, I guess that wasn't a good reference on this thread.) It's quiet, uses ZERO oil, has ZERO leaks, and I'd drive it cross-country tomorrow.

Good luck with your fix.

Thanks for the lead. Still love my Toyotas.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Man, really sorry to hear about this! Definitely an aberration. NEVER heard of that happening to a 2UZ that wasn't run hot or low on oil. They're, otherwise, good for an easy 750,000 miles (or more.)

Unless you know of a better local option for you, search on www.car-part.com. There are PLENTY of affordable, low(er) mileage 2UZs out there.

I've got 325,000 miles on my 2000 100, and it's quiet as a mouse (well, I guess that wasn't a good reference on this thread.) It's quiet, uses ZERO oil, has ZERO leaks, and I'd drive it cross-country tomorrow.

Good luck with your fix.

My 98 Tacoma and 97 80 series are also both over 300 with lots of TLC in my shop. They burn zero oil and I also trust them on long trips.

It's a real head scratcher why this one with 180k came apart, sounded like a whole set of wrenches under the hood when she let go. Sad stuff....
Looking online to source a quality engine.

 

[2001LC]

Bummer!

Be interesting to know more about the service history of this one, based off engine VIN # from RH head?
Did you take a look into radiator, is it full up to the neck of radiator or low?
How does oil look normal or like milkshake?

I did a lot of research on the 2UZ, mainly the VVT. I found the USA made engines, had high incidence of rods breaking. Also heard of many Tundra owners complain about "Toyota tick" (piston slap). That said the million mile 2005 Tundra Toyota made a big deal about, which was USA made 4.7L 2UZ.

Look under engines in my master thread of signture line. I became serous about finding the best engine I could, after buying a bad one. The "bad one" had water entry into intake ports. I believe this was due to engine being exposed to the elements and/or then power washed. This issue seems more pronounced in the VVT, but non VVT can get water in head intake ports also. Water gets in between head and intake manifold pass the gaskets. It was said to me: "Once water gets into cylinders we've two weeks to get it running. Otherwise rust will develop and engine will smoke in 20 to 40K. Often, savage yards remove the intake manifold to sell the starter. They don't take time to clean top of engine and dirt often fall into intake ports. For this reason, I'd not buy one where intake manifold has been removed either.

Good luck!

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Bummer!

Be interesting to know more about the service history of this one, based off engine VIN # from RH head?
Did you take a look into radiator, is it full up to the neck of radiator or low?
How does oil look normal or like milkshake?

I did a lot of research on the 2UZ, mainly the VVT. I found the USA made engines, had high incidence of rods breaking. Also heard of many Tundra owners complain about "Toyota tick" (piston slap). That said the million mile 2005 Tundra Toyota made a big deal about, which was USA made 4.7L 2UZ.

Look under engines in my master thread of signture line. I became serous about finding the best engine I could, after buying a bad one. The "bad one" had water entry into intake ports. I believe this was due to engine being exposed to the elements and/or then power washed. This issue seems more pronounced in the VVT, but non VVT can get water in head intake ports also. Water gets in between head and intake manifold pass the gaskets. It was said to me: "Once water gets into cylinders we've two weeks to get it running. Otherwise rust will develop and engine will smoke in 20 to 40K. Often, savage yards remove the intake manifold to sell the starter. They don't take time to clean top of engine and dirt often fall into intake ports. For this reason, I'd not buy one where intake manifold has been removed either.

Good luck!

Awesome post and info, thanks for all the support MUD! I should have posted here months ago I've only read and post it on mud for my 80 series I guess I just didn't think about it.

So I suppose lesson number one for me in this ordeal is research mud first!

The bright side is being a 20-plus year electrician not a professional auto mechanic I learned so much about auto mechanics working on this truck over the last few months going through all the steps in the FSM along with all the reading and research was worth its weight in gold.

Truth be told though..... my 1997 80 series collector edition is by far my favorite to work on. Distributor, no variable valve timing, inline 6, it's just great.

2001lc you mentioned researching the best engine, I saw these guys Toyota 2UZ-FE 4.7 Long Block Crate Engine Sale, Remanufactured thoughts?

What was your conclusion on the best motor, are the Japan 2uz better built? Maybe they have those low miles Japan motors available for a 2uz?

We bought the rig with 80k 8 years ago. It belonged to the wife of some Bay Area big IT CEO, it had 32 pages of Toyota dealership maintenance, same dealership, Toyota manager knew the family and mentioned the interior is Coach grade leather and he thinks she idled it a lot, sitting at soccer and kid events, without an hour meeter who knows.

Between all my Toyota's I am religious and very much enjoy the maintenance. This truck is not missed a blink on my watch, oil change, fluids are always topped, timing belt, water pump, bearings (Koyo Japan om grade) early, though I did notice the coolant reservoir was lower than usual 1/2". radiator is full.

While trouble shooting the missfire codes over the last few months I kept a keen eye on oil for milkshake of death and radiator fluid being topped off or oily. Funny everything I read and everyone I talked to said there's never trouble with these engines mechanically. I was focused on electrical issues. Following the factory service manual, lengthy test procedure for the codes, it led me to change the computer (ECM), didn't work.

I got a great deal on it we love this truck I'm a put a new engine in it.

I have a friend who's a retired Toyota mechanic he express interest in maybe changing the engine but expressed a lot of interest in wanting to perform an autopsy on the motor.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Update

Well today on a test drive to warm up the truck for a compression check she blew up. Either she threw a rod or the crank broke blew a hole at the bottom of the block / pan.

I'm looking online now for engine options. Any suggestions?

I can't believe this happened to one of my Toyotas definitely a one-off.

Holy moly! That brings the suck dude.

 

[2001LC]

Awesome post and info, thanks for all the support MUD! I should have posted here months ago I've only read and post it on mud for my 80 series I guess I just didn't think about it.

So I suppose lesson number one for me in this ordeal is research mud first!

The bright side is being a 20-plus year electrician not a professional auto mechanic I learned so much about auto mechanics working on this truck over the last few months going through all the steps in the FSM along with all the reading and research was worth its weight in gold.

Truth be told though..... my 1997 80 series collector edition is by far my favorite to work on. Distributor, no variable valve timing, inline 6, it's just great.

2001lc you mentioned researching the best engine, I saw these guys Toyota 2UZ-FE 4.7 Long Block Crate Engine Sale, Remanufactured thoughts?

What was your conclusion on the best motor, are the Japan 2uz better built? Maybe they have those low miles Japan motors available for a 2uz?

We bought the rig with 80k 8 years ago. It belonged to the wife of some Bay Area big IT CEO, it had 32 pages of Toyota dealership maintenance, same dealership, Toyota manager knew the family and mentioned the interior is Coach grade leather and he thinks she idled it a lot, sitting at soccer and kid events, without an hour meeter who knows.

Between all my Toyota's I am religious and very much enjoy the maintenance. This truck is not missed a blink on my watch, oil change, fluids are always topped, timing belt, water pump, bearings (Koyo Japan om grade) early, though I did notice the coolant reservoir was lower than usual 1/2". radiator is full.

While trouble shooting the missfire codes over the last few months I kept a keen eye on oil for milkshake of death and radiator fluid being topped off or oily. Funny everything I read and everyone I talked to said there's never trouble with these engines mechanically. I was focused on electrical issues. Following the factory service manual, lengthy test procedure for the codes, it led me to change the computer (ECM), didn't work.

I got a great deal on it we love this truck I'm a put a new engine in it.

I have a friend who's a retired Toyota mechanic he express interest in maybe changing the engine but expressed a lot of interest in wanting to perform an autopsy on the motor.

1st the 2UZ is one of the best engine in the Toyota line up ever. If properly maintained, we don't know how long they can last. One was documented at 1 million miles and was still in spec and did not use oil.

Second the 98-2005 is not variable value timing (VVT). You do not want a VVT for your 2005. Those (VVT) came out in May of 2005

When you read through some of my posting on engines and The Unicorn. You'll see I did not think much of these rebuilt crate engines. The one you dig up, I've no idea if it's good or bad. If done right, which cost++$$, it could be a good engine. But the very best comes form factory in Japan. It has the tightest tolerances. Also watch out for those claiming to sell a JMD. Those are the < 50K mile and under from Japan. The real honest JDM re-sellers, have told me, they never see 2UZ (at least not the VVT which was my interest).

Your engine did not just blow. It's either a replacement engine that wasn't good or was maintained properly.

As you read through my engine stuff, you'll see I opted for Japanese made (100 series, 4runner and GX470). If a 100 series from 03-05 it's a direct drop-in. 98-02 you'll swap out Throttle body and linkage from your 05 engine. The non 100 series means many parts will need sawpping.

Tundra and Sequoia engine are more plentiful and cheaper for a reason. But again, The million mile engine was a USA built, so don't think you can't use one. Just higher incidence of piston slap and broke rods in the USA built.

I'd go with used engine. Just do your homework on whatever engine you find. Pull Toyota/Lexus history and carfax before buying. Look for lowest miles with regular oil/filter and air filter changes, and no stater replaced is best. Look for one that has not been exposed to the elements (rain and snow).

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Thanks 2001lc, great info

 

[Stuckinthemud]

Sorry to hear your story ended up this way. Was hoping for mice!

Good luck with the new engine project - please start a thread or add to this one on what you find.