Towing with a rear swing out

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I am towing with my 80 - Cummins swapped and have a 4x4 labs rear bumper , however with the rear swing outs the spare tire and the fuel tank storage get in the way and I can’t tow without a hitch extender - rated weight for the LC80 is 5000 lbs - tongue weight is 500max , however the hitch extender supposedly drops it in HALF! Is this really true ? I plan on towing a camper trailer that weighs 4,000 lbs . How can I get around this rear bumper thing ? Anyone had this issue ?
 
I am towing with my 80 - Cummins swapped and have a 4x4 labs rear bumper , however with the rear swing outs the spare tire and the fuel tank storage get in the way and I can’t tow without a hitch extender - rated weight for the LC80 is 5000 lbs - tongue weight is 500max , however the hitch extender supposedly drops it in HALF! Is this really true ? I plan on towing a camper trailer that weighs 4,000 lbs . How can I get around this rear bumper thing ? Anyone had this issue ?

Not going to provide data, but yes, the hitch extender magnifies the tongue load significantly the longer it is. It will not change the load capacity, so a bit of a mixed bag. Try to clear the trailer tongue obstructions so you don’t need the extender.
 
Not going to provide data, but yes, the hitch extender magnifies the tongue load significantly the longer it is. It will not change the load capacity, so a bit of a mixed bag. Try to clear the trailer tongue obstructions so you don’t need the extender.
Well that’s what I don’t want to do, otherwise it’s a waste for me to have a spare tire carrier , I have nowhere else to put my spare tire..
 
Here is what I’m dealing with - for my small trailers it’s fine but for my 4,000 lbs camper trailer with 300LBS tongue weight it’s a little more sketchy..

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I'm running a long 2" receiver tube within the factory x-member that bolts onto my rear winch plate mount for extra leverage

For road trips, I have close to 400 lbs of gear hanging WAY back for swing out clearance and haven't had any issues

Even had my motorcycle back there and it's been solid (though I prefer to haul it with the minivan for easy loading)

In your case, I'd ditch the trailer jack for more clearance

I'm probably the last person you'd want towing advice from though lol

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I'm running a long 2" receiver tube within the factory x-member that bolts onto my rear winch plate mount for extra leverage

For road trips, I have close to 400 lbs of gear hanging WAY back for swing out clearance and haven't had any issues

Even had my motorcycle back there and it's been solid (though I prefer to haul it with the minivan for easy loading)

In your case, I'd ditch the trailer jack for more clearance

I'm probably the last person you'd want towing advice from though lol

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I’m Thoroughly confused on how you have the hitch going into the homemade crossmember , anymore photos ? Is it removable ?
 
Here is what I’m dealing with - for my small trailers it’s fine but for my 4,000 lbs camper trailer with 300LBS tongue weight it’s a little more sketchy..

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Ditch the jack, or rebuild it into a tauler jack, that way you can tuck the trailer in and tow normal and the tauler jack can both lift your trailer and your 80.Best of both worlds.

 
I’m Thoroughly confused on how you have the hitch going into the homemade crossmember , anymore photos ? Is it removable ?

It's the factory X-member

I just cut a square between the pintle bolt holes for the receiver tube and welded it in, but the welding isn't really necessary as long as the tube tight within the hole

Did the same thing on a customer's rig and left it as a slip fit so he could remove it

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Ditch the jack, or rebuild it into a tauler jack, that way you can tuck the trailer in and tow normal and the tauler jack can both lift your trailer and your 80.Best of both worlds.

Good idea also!
 
It's the factory X-member

I just cut a square between the pintle bolt holes for the receiver tube and welded it in, but the welding isn't really necessary as long as the tube tight within the hole

Did the same thing on a customer's rig and left it as a slip fit so he could remove it

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I suppose reinforcing my 4x4 labs bumper would work . I don’t think my bumper will move considering how it’s mounted but rather be safe than sorry
 
All you need to do is move the trailer jack on the pictured trailer, or swap it to one that folds down when hitched.

What’s in the way on the camper you want to pull?
 
All you need to do is move the trailer jack on the pictured trailer, or swap it to one that folds down when hitched.

What’s in the way on the camper you want to pull?
The camper has the same style but it’s an electric jack , like the photo below .
 
The camper has the same style but it’s an electric jack , like the photo below .
My fix would just be putting the spare tire (and gas bottle?) in the camper while traveling. Keep it simple solution.
 
A hitch extender will significantly increase the forces on your hitch. Avoid one at all costs!

On my old camper, I added a plate to the front of the trailer, and relocated the trailer jack back about 12" to clear my swing outs. I also converted to an electric jack, since it didn't need as much space to operate.

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-Rob
 
A hitch extender will significantly increase the forces on your hitch. Avoid one at all costs!

On my old camper, I added a plate to the front of the trailer, and relocated the trailer jack back about 12" to clear my swing outs. I also converted to an electric jack, since it didn't need as much space to operate.

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-Rob
That’s a good idea too!
 
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