Id like to tow my fj40 behind a motorhome. I tried a tow bar and the cruiser did not consistently follow the motorhome it would dragged while making a 90 degree turns. I dont have room to store a trailer witch is the safest way to tow a 40. Dose any one have any experience towing fj40s with a car dolly? Or have any suggestions.
Towing fj40s bihind motorhomes
- Thread starter gkind
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Id like to tow my fj40 behind a motorhome. I tried a tow bar and the cruiser did not consistently follow the motorhome it would dragged while making a 90 degree turns. I dont have room to store a trailer witch is the safest way to tow a 40. Dose any one have any experience towing fj40s with a car dolly? Or have any suggestions.
Nice truck!
Dollys work, I have used them for short haul, BUT...
Find a place to keep a trailer!!! It really is the only way to go. I have been trailering my truck since '93, and only want a larger pull rig and trailer now!!
The '93 and '96 Cummins have worked great, but want to do more things, with a larger pull rig...
Good luck!
Dollys work, I have used them for short haul, BUT...
Find a place to keep a trailer!!! It really is the only way to go. I have been trailering my truck since '93, and only want a larger pull rig and trailer now!!
The '93 and '96 Cummins have worked great, but want to do more things, with a larger pull rig...
Good luck!
car dollies are no better than flat towing, IMO.
and, I see longer than stock front shackles....
your caster is not enuf with the lift and shackles. You need 2.5 degree shims installed between the spring pack and the axle perch, orientate them so the pinion on the pumpkin is lowered. This will increase your caster and help immensely. 2" overstock shackles should only need 2.5 degrees, find steel ones, not alum, and you may need longer spring center pins too to keep things aligned.
Tire pressure...maximum sidewall rating, least rolling resistance.
I towbarred for 2 years behind a 95 Toy pickup, even in snow. Very unsafe, but made me a unwilling expert in the tricks of the towbar.
and, I see longer than stock front shackles....
your caster is not enuf with the lift and shackles. You need 2.5 degree shims installed between the spring pack and the axle perch, orientate them so the pinion on the pumpkin is lowered. This will increase your caster and help immensely. 2" overstock shackles should only need 2.5 degrees, find steel ones, not alum, and you may need longer spring center pins too to keep things aligned.
Tire pressure...maximum sidewall rating, least rolling resistance.
I towbarred for 2 years behind a 95 Toy pickup, even in snow. Very unsafe, but made me a unwilling expert in the tricks of the towbar.
I've flat towed my 40 all over georgia behind a 96 bronco w/351 and K1500 'burban. Before my lift with 31" tires it tracked great, never had any problems at all. After my 4" lift, with 33's, my caster is off a little bit, and if you let some air out of the front tires (~5-8 psi) you are good, but with the installation of caster shims as woody suggested I should be fine. I also do not have room to store a large trailer, mine is only a 5x10 3500lb for hauling ATV's around, and I wouldn't be able to use a double axle enough to warrant owning it. Not to mention not enough money.
All in all, if you get it figured out, and only tow on the highway (I would get out and drive my 40 the rest of the way once I was off the highway) It was fine. But I only towed it when I have other people to drive the tow vehicle.
All in all, if you get it figured out, and only tow on the highway (I would get out and drive my 40 the rest of the way once I was off the highway) It was fine. But I only towed it when I have other people to drive the tow vehicle.
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Thank you for the reply. I do have one other question, do I need to shim front and rear? My shackles are three quarter of an inch longer than stock and the leafs have a three inch lift. Is the thick part of the shim face forward on the front and the rear? Thanks Gus
front only, rear is irrevelant to tow-tracking.
thick side forward should tip your pinion down....
thick side forward should tip your pinion down....
Shimming the rear axle should not change anything towing this truck.
As Brian said, the thick part of the shim needs to be installed facing forward, tipping the axle housing down/rotating it rearword on its lateral axis, increasing your caster, and compensting for the longer shackles installed on the front end.
You would only want to install a shim on the rear to tip the diff up towards the t-case if you were getting a bad vibration while driving the Land Cruiser, if in fact driveline angle was to blame. But I do not see where this is an issue here.
Good luck!
As Brian said, the thick part of the shim needs to be installed facing forward, tipping the axle housing down/rotating it rearword on its lateral axis, increasing your caster, and compensting for the longer shackles installed on the front end.
You would only want to install a shim on the rear to tip the diff up towards the t-case if you were getting a bad vibration while driving the Land Cruiser, if in fact driveline angle was to blame. But I do not see where this is an issue here.
Good luck!
