Towing 7,840 lbs with 2004 Lx-470?! (2 Viewers)

[lx470mg]

Hey guys, new to this, and I've seen some threads about people towing but I wanted to see if anyone has ever attempted to tow more than the 6,500 lbs. capacity.

My 04' has the bumper hitch receiver (5,000lbs capacity I believe), and I plan to to install an aftermarket below the bumper receiver with higher rating (not sure what kind yet).
I am planning to buy a toy hauler trailer (04' Carson Titan FC202) that has a dry weight of 4,890 lbs. It comes with a weight distribution hitch (790 lbs.). Total would be 5,630 lbs. not including if I load an sxs 4 seater. So potentially 7,230 lbs. not including any other gear and passengers in the vehicle. Total weight could potentially be up to 7,840 lbs.

Has anyone attempted such a heavy tow, and if so how far or how consistently. I would be doing about 400 mile trips once or twice a year, 700 mile trips 2-3 times a year, and potentially even longer ones.

I still have stock AHC but in the future I might put airbags like others have done (depends on price of course), as well as install trailer brakes / brake controller (haven't seen anything on here about doing that install).

Is this just way too much to ask for the cruiser? Thoughts and any help on how to make it work are appreciated!

 

[GTV]

If your rig is 100% dialed in, you don’t mind traveling very slow and you have a keen sense of mechanical sympathy it can be done.

Should you do it? No, you should not.

 

[Jack90210]

You'll want to check AHC pressures *with the trailer attached* IMO, as you may find that you need stiffer springs AND a set of airbags, front torsion bar adjustments, etc.

I'm assuming that the trailer has brakes. Use the best brake controller that you can.

Consider a larger transmission cooler, or at least a way to monitor the trans fluid temp, and be active about shifting the trans in a way that maximizes converter lockup (i.e. keep it out of Drive unless it wants to stay in the highest gear).

 

[lx470mg]

If your rig is 100% dialed in, you don’t mind traveling very slow and you have a keen sense of mechanical sympathy it can be done.

Should you do it? No, you should not.

Might make more sense to go back to the drawing board and look for a lighter trailer to start with..

You'll want to check AHC pressures *with the trailer attached* IMO, as you may find that you need stiffer springs AND a set of airbags, front torsion bar adjustments, etc.

I'm assuming that the trailer has brakes. Use the best brake controller that you can.

Consider a larger transmission cooler, or at least a way to monitor the trans fluid temp, and be active about shifting the trans in a way that maximizes converter lockup (i.e. keep it out of Drive unless it wants to stay in the highest gear).

Thanks, all great tips!

You'll want to check AHC pressures *with the trailer attached* IMO, as you may find that you need stiffer springs AND a set of airbags, front torsion bar adjustments, etc.

I'm assuming that the trailer has brakes. Use the best brake controller that you can.

Consider a larger transmission cooler, or at least a way to monitor the trans fluid temp, and be active about shifting the trans in a way that maximizes converter lockup (i.e. keep it out of Drive unless it wants to stay in the highest gear).

I did a 700 mile trip with regular camping gear and passengers and the AHC automatically started sitting in the Low position without me moving it there. I tried to put it back in Neutral and it wouldn't go. Is this normal? (I had ice chests, tables, etc. just regular full camping gear). After I removed all the equipment when we got back it went back to normal and haven't had any issues with it.

 

[Jack90210]

I did a 700 mile trip with regular camping gear and passengers and the AHC automatically started sitting in the Low position without me moving it there. I tried to put it back in Neutral and it wouldn't go. Is this normal? (I had ice chests, tables, etc. just regular full camping gear). After I removed all the equipment when we got back it went back to normal and haven't had any issues with it.

That's call an "overpressure event" and is meant to protect the AHC system -- when the AHC pressure gets too high, it drops itself into LOW position. It's not an unusual occurrence for these vehicles at this age, as the original springs gradually lose an increasing amount of load capacity over the years.

 

[lx470mg]

That's call an "overpressure event" and is meant to protect the AHC system -- when the AHC pressure gets too high, it drops itself into LOW position. It's not an unusual occurrence for these vehicles at this age, as the original springs gradually lose an increasing amount of load capacity over the years.

ok thanks does that mean new springs will be needed soon and/or the AHC might stop functioning soon? In any case not good if I'm planning to tow

 

[Super77]

1. I’m no mathematical genius, but 7,800 [checks his notes] is more than 6,500. I don’t think the weight limit is a suggestion.

2. If you’re asking “has anyone attempted it,” I guarantee the answer is yes. While someone held their beer, even.

3. If you’re really asking, “is it a good idea,” see #1.

4. If you’ve already decided that you’re going to go 20% over capacity and are looking for validation, I’m sure you’ll find it here, but I wonder how many of those would want to be near you on the highway, doing 75.

 

[Mike NXP]

If you're looking for another vote mine would be for no, don't do it...Buy a pickup truck with the payload capacities meant to tow that type of weight..It sounds like your AHC has already given you some grief..You would need heavier springs, e-rated tires, and probably still shouldn't be towing that much weight

 

[Mike NXP]

maybe some relevant info
A little help with towing capacity - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a-little-help-with-towing-capacity.810240/

 

[LC Lurker]

Not a good idea to tow over the towing capacity, especially by 20% above the rating in a 20 year old vehicle…and long distance, no. It’d be different if it was around the corner to you boat launch or campsite, but 400-700 miles? Hell no. Get a lighter trailer or more truck.

There’s more to towing capacity than just the hitch and engine torque numbers. If anything, you should be aiming to have a tow setup that’s 20% LESS than the 6,500lbs rating.

 

[ndg]

As a reference, the rated towing capacity for a LC100 in the UK/Europe is 3500kg or 7700lbs. This is true for both the HD and UZ engines. I'm surprised it's rated for less in North America, but your highways often have steeper grades, so it could be related to that.

 

[lx470mg]

Just an update: I've decided to look for a much smaller trailer (under 3,500 lbs. dry). I went to see one today and test towed it around the block. It pulled it great, except for the fact that I felt a little herky jerky sometimes and I'm thinking it was the back end AHC. Since that likely needs to be replaced prior to towing ANYTHING I am going to start looking into the best suspension options before purchasing a trailer. Any links to other threads would help the search. Thanks!

 

[snowyhermit]

I'll admit I'm not way familiar with the 100/470 series, but 7 to 8 thousand pounds is a lot even for a suburban, which is a _much_ bigger and generally more tow oriented vehicle. Definitely go with a smaller trailer.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Assuming the age of the existing AT fluid is in the 45-50k mile range, I recommend you do a full AT fluid exchange before the towing trip. Won’t guarantee anything but having a fresh line of fluid for any equipment lessens the amount of stress the internal parts go through.

 

[MongooseGA]

Some guys have had good experiences, but in my own, the 100 is a s*** tow vehicle. I don't even like towing my utility trailer with it.

 

[peacesells63]

I have towed all kinds of stupid stuff with cruisers. An 80 with an 80, a 100 with a 100. Only on city streets, out of necessity when I had no other choice. I absolutely would not tow anything over 5k with one for any distance. When I towed an 80 with my 80, ironically it was a parts truck that rolled on i10 while towing a 28ft travel trailer. The wheelbase is too short and they sway far too much to be safe towing more than 5k. I did tow a sub 5k trailer about 1000 miles with the 100 while moving and it towed great, just got 7mpg.

 

[zipdoa]

You'll want a different tow rig for that much weight. A properly distributed load means 10-15% of the total weight will be tongue weight.

that's 785lbs - 1175lbs. Don't know that I'd push the factory 650lbs hitch that far. Keep in mind, tongue weight subtracts from your GVWR (1,270lbs), so you have about 485lbs of weight left (@ 10% tongue weight of 7850lbs) for cargo in the truck. You'll be well over GVWR by the time you load the truck up with bodies and gear.

I know in Australia vehicles can be upgraded and re-certified for a higher GVM, so it's possible that you could modify the 100 for the additional weight, but still the wrong vehicle IMO.

Find yourself a V10 TDI Touareg and then you'll get 7700lbs towing capacity + air suspension - a better choice for this kind of load.

 

[rexington14]

Get a 200 instead

 

[SteveH]

Get a Powerstroke Ford F-250/350 instead! Then when you have to make an emergency maneuver, it won't all end up in a ditch, upside down.

 

[anthonydiaz85]

Get a Powerstroke Ford F-250/350 instead! Then when you have to make an emergency maneuver, it won't all end up in a ditch, upside down.

Yeah. This is the ticket. That is exactly what my front yard looks like.