Touch-up after Fender Flare Removal

[MoLS]

Pulled off my fender flares yesterday and used a 3m eraser to remove as much adhesive as possible and then went back with goo-gone to try to remove the rest.

Note: DO NOT use the eraser wheel on the trim or on your rear bumper, it goes right through the paint!

There are some spots where the flares wore straight through the paint. I have a natural white rig, I read somewhere on here there was a pretty easy process for touchup but search is failing me now. Can someone walk me through that?

Also, there's a thin line of really stubborn adhesive at the top of the front wheel arch that will not come off with repeated attacks from the eraser wheel and goo-gone -- is there something stronger I can use? Is it safe to try wetsanding it off?

I'm a total noob when it comes to paint work!

 

[2001LC]

I use Acryli-Clean DX330 wax & grease remove, hands down better than goo-be-gone. I use it in all kinds of cleaning application. Painters wipe down auto bodies before painting, it's also great for cleaning gum/glue after removing tape or from labels on jars.

As far as touch up I've been thinking an air brush might be handy. That way I could use hardener in a can of auto motive mixed paint. Instead of paying the high price of the paint store filling a spray can which doesn't have hardener mix in.

 

[Phat1842Many]

Have you tried WD-40? It's always worked better than googone for me. Unfortunately it seems like the adhesive has "calcified" (I can't think of a better word for it). If you go the wet sand route, try sanding it on some paint that's not visible first and then using a polish to make sure you like the way it turns out.

I think this is obvious but I'll say it anyway: Do it by hand and try your very best to sand only the offending profile.

I'm also not a body guy so I defer to them.

 

[jemsec]

Don't underestimate the "Clay Bar Kit"!!!

Don't sand. Yes the 3M wheel will eat the bumper and side body trim. Go get a "Clay Bar Kit". Use the spray and bar as described and it will get almost all signs of the adhesive removed. After I removed my flares I was skeptical at first and shocked with the results. That little black line is a pain and is now gone.

It will take a lot of rubbing but you will be surprised with the end finish. It won't hurt the paint either. Also, it will remove all the ruff feel of the paint all over and make it feel and look like new. It made a believer out of me. The clay bar is magic!

Let us know how it works out.

 

[Schwein]

I would get an orbital buffer and some paint cleaner and run it over the surface with some light pressure till it's gone, do this before wet sanding for sure!'

 

[MoLS]

Thanks for the advice on getting the adhesive off, guys.

Anyone have any pointers for touching up the bare metal where the flares rubbed through? Should careful brush work and a little wet sanding be enough to make it look pretty good? Natural White truck.

 

[Dwight S]

Thanks for the advice on getting the adhesive off, guys.

Anyone have any pointers for touching up the bare metal where the flares rubbed through? Should careful brush work and a little wet sanding be enough to make it look pretty good? Natural White truck.

Nothing is going to be perfect short of a paint respray. On some of the detailing websites like Autogeek, they highly recommend the DR Colorchip tough-up paint system. The Toyota "Natural White" should be fairly easy to get close.

 

[OregonLC]

Anyone have any pointers for touching up the bare metal where the flares rubbed through? Should careful brush work and a little wet sanding be enough to make it look pretty good? Natural White truck.

Not an LC, but I just completed a similar repair. Time consuming but relatively easy and good results.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/paint-body/785493-my-first-body-repair.html

 

[mgeiger]

I had bare metal - about a 1/2" spot where the plastic chafed the paint for 12 years located over the wheel arch at both rear doors after I took off my flares. I sanded slightly then touched up with a touch up brush (any auto store). I then wet-sanded the area carefully. Then compounded. Then polished. Then waxed. Hard to even tell there was ever an issue- even on my black rig.

 

[MoLS]

Thanks for the tips!

I tried the clay bar to get the remaining adhesive and it worked great!! Still have some faint black lines that I will work a bit more when I get a spare day, but you can't see them unless you're right up next to it. Will take the above advice for painting the same spots on the rear doors as well.