torsion bars

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vipergrhd

vipergrhd

10 Year 15 Year
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I'm in the process of looking for some replacement torsion bars for the hilux, since Downey went out of business i'm not sure were to get quality upgrade torsion bars or even a suspension lift package w/out dropping the front diff. i'm thinking about 2.5" of lift would be nice to fit some 33's in the fender.your suggestions and comments would be appreciated. :D

John:clap:
 
In my experience the factory bars are plenty stiff, would not change them unless adding a bunch of weight. My favorite lift is ball joint spacers, when combined with longer shocks, they increase travel and flex/ride better than stiffer bars.
 
I got lucky and found a lift from a rolled truck for $125! came with everything to drop the diff on my runner

the rolled 4runner I bought had pro-comp 3" springs in the back and cranked bars in the front and it pry had at least 3" of lift from the bars, I wouldnt do that though
 
vipergrhd said:
I'm in the process of looking for some replacement torsion bars for the hilux, since Downey went out of business i'm not sure were to get quality upgrade torsion bars or even a suspension lift package w/out dropping the front diff. i'm thinking about 2.5" of lift would be nice to fit some 33's in the fender.your suggestions and comments would be appreciated. :D

John:clap:
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Ok, hard as it is to believe the stock IFS on a T-Bar Toyota is awesome.

Specially when compared to what else is out there... It's just hard to modify.


You want 3" of lift, right? And you don't want a 4 inch "Lower-to-Lift" bracket lift that the tires you will need to make it look sane will be over and beyond what the half diff and shafts are even rated for...


Torsion bars: No news here, OME, Sway-a-Way's and maybe you can even find a set of Downey's...

But those will only move the ride height @ what the stock bump stops, or bump stop mounts were factory...

And it's not 3".


Some news: I thought the V6 bars were different? :confused: Not sure how, or if they even are, but it seems I've read that somewhere.


Body Lifts... Keeping in mind the stock IFS is VARY good, but doesn't exactly have a lot of travel. A BL (used in conjunction with a DT lift) is not actually a bad idea, b/c it leaves the factory geometry ALONE.

All it does is let you bolt a larger diameter tire on.

Now fast fwd to progress and ppl like Roger Brown and BudBuilt.

IMO, if I wanted a 3" lift, I'd look HARD at a 3" BL and possibly a 2 or 3" Drivetrain Lift.

This will net you lots of clearance, Clarence, and makes your FRAME the new skid plate...

You can still bolt the same size tires on you could with the TB Lift, only now the stock suspension and geometry are left ALONE, you've got a nice high and tight center clearance for break-over, and it all costs about the same as a lift that might actually (unintentionally) cause a weak link.

While jacked up arms would look nice the reality is your shafts are now at a higher angle, and the more a shaf... sorry, JOINT is at an angle the closer it is to wearing and ultimately breaking.

IMO, I'd research a Body and DT lift.

IMO, that's a better route to take with IFS, and has more benefits.

Tires are still the only way to gain AXLE clearance, and TRACTION diffs are still the only way to traverse terrain better.

Not a lot of lift and tire here, yet look how harsh the terrain is?

 
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Tools R Us said:
In my experience the factory bars are plenty stiff, would not change them unless adding a bunch of weight. My favorite lift is ball joint spacers, when combined with longer shocks, they increase travel and flex/ride better than stiffer bars.
Click to expand...


Agree. I'd do this WAYYYY before I'd change the T-Bar.
 
I'm new here, but this is my 88 with 1 1/2 BJ spacers and larger torsion bars cranked a little. About 2 1/2" of lift.
P1010050.jpg
 
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Hilux said:
Some news: I thought the V6 bars were different? :confused: Not sure how, or if they even are, but it seems I've read that somewhere.
Click to expand...
On the second generation 4Runner 1990-1995, no difference between 22RE and 3VZE. Toyota uses the same part numbers. Somebody else can check first generation 4runners, I don't have VIN#s to check quickly. On the other hand they do have different part numbers for pickup, 1989-1994, vs. 4runner, 1990-1995. Note, only one digit was different.

OME gives the same part number for both pickup, all IFS versions, and 4Runner, 1st and 2dn gen IFS. Basically all IFS Pickups before the Tacoma, and all IFS 4Runners from 1st and 2nd generations use torsion bars that have the same mountings and lengths. Only difference is right versus left build for the torsion bar.

To me this says that the Toyota torsion bars are universal fit in all but spring tension, and that may not even be different. Often manufacturers use different part numbers on different vehicles even though the part is identical.
 
This is more subjective and is my impression from my research when trying to figure out what to do with my '94. If the weight remains the same as stock, use the stock t-bars. Increases in weight up to around #200 lbs on the front, go with OME. Larger t-bar diameters, like 26mm, induced harsher rides, and actually limited flex, OME seamed to hit a nice happy medium between increased strength and retaining ride and flexibility. I also remember allot of comments that the stock t-bars didn't last when flexed more than their normal range. IE. many comments of reduced life after torquing them down to give lift. Many of these cases I definitely saw they had winch bumpers which is more weight. On a few cases where they commented they were doing fine, the person's vehicle had a stock, or relatively light front bumper without winch.
 
On the amount of lift. 2.5" lift is more than the 1.5" which is what most site as the limit of the stock joints in the front. Either drop the differential, or change the joints in the shafts. I know there are joints that will work, but don't remember who makes them. I only cared about 1" or so of lift so I never fallowed up on that. My use is fire trail running, not rock crawling.

A thought. For 2.5" lift, you could do a 1.5" crank on the t-bars with 1.5" ball joint spacers, plus new springs for the rear, and a 1" body lift. 1" body lifts are not that hard and don't disrupt to much. OME and 4Crawler should have all the parts. 4Crawler Offroad Products
 
2ndGenToyotaFan said:
Cranking the T bars will not wear them out, adding weight and or wheeling them hard will. Cranking them only changes the angle of attachment from the A arm to the T bar, nothing else.
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Wheeling them hard is the issue. I'm sure the stock t-bars were designed with their flex centered around the normal ride height. Cranking them to add lift causes them to be flexing a greater amount in the up direction when flexed to the up limit stop. That could be causing them to go outside the flex range they are capable of dealing with long term. It is only and additional 1/3rd of the normal up flex range, assuming 1.5" lift, but to a spring that may be a big deal. I don't have enough information to answer if it is a big deal or not.

As a side note, I read in OME literature that they designed theirs for use with 1.5" lift which has the a-arm at 2/3rds up travel and 1/3rd down travel.
 
thanks guys

Bogo said:
This is more subjective and is my impression from my research when trying to figure out what to do with my '94. If the weight remains the same as stock, use the stock t-bars. Increases in weight up to around #200 lbs on the front, go with OME. Larger t-bar diameters, like 26mm, induced harsher rides, and actually limited flex, OME seamed to hit a nice happy medium between increased strength and retaining ride and flexibility. I also remember allot of comments that the stock t-bars didn't last when flexed more than their normal range. IE. many comments of reduced life after torquing them down to give lift. Many of these cases I definitely saw they had winch bumpers which is more weight. On a few cases where they commented they were doing fine, the person's vehicle had a stock, or relatively light front bumper without winch.
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I'm amazed on how much info i can extract from all you guys in such a short time.Bogo hit the nail in the head so to speak the reason for my inquiry is that i really don't want to dump all that money in a jiff,i know that the stock t-bars will be able to hold up if i crank it up but for the future of the rig i was more looking forward to were i will add more weight and wheel it.i will surely experiment with the stock t-bars before i upgrade,i might try the balljoint spacer thing w/ AAL's i think it's a mild upgrade and a good start.Thanks for all your comments guys.


Could you please share some pics of your suspension lift in your trucks just would like to get an idea specially the balljoint spacers.BTW i hate the idea of Body lifts if ever i go that route 1" would be the max i would go.i cringe every time i see a rig with bodylifts it seems to me that the owner is being lazy or flat out broke just my opinion of course.

Hilux loved your comments man, Bogo thanks for the info.:clap:

John
 
best pic i could find of my mess...this is a 3" diff drop on 33X10.50 15's
normal_DSC_4785_%28Large%29.JPG
 
vipergrhd said:
.

i cringe every time i see a rig with bodylifts it seems to me that the owner is being lazy or flat out broke just my opinion of course.
Click to expand...

Unless you do it to make room for a drive train lift.... :flipoff2:
 
body lifts

I don't know why i hate the idea of body lifts but ever since i saw one on a rig that has one it bugs the living crap out of me,i would rather replace it with fiberglass fenders or trim before i go the BL route.thanks for the pics.:D

A few years ago i ran into a spiral CV boot kit that allows extreme angles,have anyone ran into this or even try it?i was curious if it really works.:bang:

John
 
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