Torque Wrench Recommendations please

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I'm pretty OCD about torqueing everything correctly, even my wheel lugs. Looks like I'm finally going to break down and get a bigger torque wrench to add to my tool chest. Getting tired of using the loaner from the auto parts store for values higher than the wrenches I have, and not sure it's accurate. I've got a small 1/4 that does inch/lbs, also a 1/2" but only goes to 150 ft/lb or so, now looking to get one large enough so that I can check the higher torque bolts like the 221 ftlb alignment cams. So I guess 250#? Any recommendations from the good mechanics on a decent click style non-digital wrench that isn't overly expensive but stays accurate? I'd like to stay sub $100 if possible or even less. Looking for recs based on experience using. Thanks!
 
I'm pretty OCD about torqueing everything correctly, even my wheel lugs. Looks like I'm finally going to break down and get a bigger torque wrench to add to my tool chest. Getting tired of using the loaner from the auto parts store for values higher than the wrenches I have, and not sure it's accurate. I've got a small 1/4 that does inch/lbs, also a 1/2" but only goes to 150 ft/lb or so, now looking to get one large enough so that I can check the higher torque bolts like the 221 ftlb alignment cams. So I guess 250#? Any recommendations from the good mechanics on a decent click style non-digital wrench that isn't overly expensive but stays accurate? I'd like to stay sub $100 if possible or even less. Looking for recs based on experience using. Thanks!
 
CDI for your price range.
 
For the bigger stuff I splurged on a split-beam 1/2” wrench, and it gets a lot of use. About $260 right now for a 40-250 PREC3FR250F. This is the model discount tire usually uses and they are workhorses.. but for me it’s something else.

If you weren’t aware you can leave split-beam wrenches dialed up without taking them out of calibration. Mine lives at 100 for most of my vehicle lug nuts, then will easily handle the 207-221 needed for some of our front suspension stuff.
 
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I believe a big tip is technique from the user while the bolts are torqued. No fast movements that will over torque the fastener.

I held training on our torque calibration testers with my techs to show how easily fasteners will be over torqued if a smooth controlled movement isn't used before every maintenance cycle.
 
+1 for CDI. I have 4. 3 click style and a big digital. Their calibration service is reasonable and easy. I consider regular calibration the most important thing.

I have 6-7 other torque wrenches, mostly older or cheaper, but they hardly ever get used. Except for a few specialty ones.
 
I didn’t know the CDI, so I was checking around and found this-

 
What is the process to calibrate a torque wrench? Send it off to a lab or find a local place? I have an older micrometer style Craftsman I would like to have calibrated.
 
To me the primary issue with cheap torque wrenches isn’t necessarily durability, it’s being and staying in calibration.

And calibration is very, very easy to do at home with a ruler or measuring tape, some weights appropriate to the torque wrench, and a fixture to hold the wrench or socket like a bench vise or even a lug nut if under 100 ft-lb.

Just measure 1 foot from the center of the square drive, and hang the amount of weight you dial in to the wrench from that spot, being sure to have the wrench horizontal. If you don't have the correct amount of weight (say half) you can do the math and hang it further out (twice as far, in this case).

Obviously this would be difficult to measure to the half pound, but it can quickly tell you whether your wrenches are getting far out of range.
 
What is the process to calibrate a torque wrench? Send it off to a lab or find a local place? I have an older micrometer style Craftsman I would like to have calibrated.

I send mine off for factory calibration. Maybe you could find a local place but CDI makes it pretty easy. Online form, ship it off.
 
Tekton.

Anything within ~10-15% accuracy will suffice. Lots of folks on here like to think they’re assembling Swiss watches or Formula 1 engines. I agree torquing mechanical joints is important - but not all joints are critical or require a high level of precision.
 
@jivewalker I forgot to say I'm super happy with my Neiko pro torque wrenches and their 1/2" model is just under $100

Tekton.

Anything within ~10-15% accuracy will suffice. Lots of folks on here like to think they’re assembling Swiss watches or Formula 1 engines. I agree torquing mechanical joints is important - but not all joints are critical or require a high level of precision.

Brake calipers, lug nuts, spark plugs, diff/transmission/transfer drains, especially the front diff drain, anything that is tapered to avoid getting it truly stuck, anything into aluminum on the engine, anything with multiple bolts on a thin gasket like the water pump, oil filter housing and drain to keep them from getting stuck, LCA pivot bolts to avoid the alignment drifting (these have to be surprisngly tight given the amount of room under the truck for a grown man even on ramps). Oil drain plug, because the published value is so much higher than feels appropriate due to the plastic gasket, toyota must know something I don't. Same for the driveshaft bolts..

Skid plates? UCA through bolt? Battery terminal? Nope.

My maintenance spreadsheet has a page for common torque values so I don't have to dig them out of the FSM every time.

Point is, a handful of things really don't matter if you have some experience. But lots of other stuff has plenty of horror stories about things getting stuck from mechanics not using the proper tools. If you have the correct torque wrenches and the numbers handy, it takes about 30 seconds to get set up and avoid all of those issues.
 
I have had mixed results with LEXIVON. I tried to use it for the oil drain cap (OEM) and set it at the appropriate torque. no click. I tried again with lower torque value, still no click. ended up breaking off the locking stub from the head of the wrench.

Proto, armstrong both with good results. YMMV.

edit: wrong tool brand mentioned above.
 
Last edited:
@jivewalker I forgot to say I'm super happy with my Neiko pro torque wrenches and their 1/2" model is just under $100



Brake calipers, lug nuts, spark plugs, diff/transmission/transfer drains, especially the front diff drain, anything that is tapered to avoid getting it truly stuck, anything into aluminum on the engine, anything with multiple bolts on a thin gasket like the water pump, oil filter housing and drain to keep them from getting stuck, LCA pivot bolts to avoid the alignment drifting (these have to be surprisngly tight given the amount of room under the truck for a grown man even on ramps). Oil drain plug, because the published value is so much higher than feels appropriate due to the plastic gasket, toyota must know something I don't. Same for the driveshaft bolts..

Skid plates? UCA through bolt? Battery terminal? Nope.

My maintenance spreadsheet has a page for common torque values so I don't have to dig them out of the FSM every time.

Point is, a handful of things really don't matter if you have some experience. But lots of other stuff has plenty of horror stories about things getting stuck from mechanics not using the proper tools. If you have the correct torque wrenches and the numbers handy, it takes about 30 seconds to get set up and avoid all of those issues.

We are on the same page. I don't torque skids, etc. I always torque oil plug, filter, and filter drain cap (easy 30,20,10) and brake calipers, suspension components, all fill and drain plugs, etc. After seeing the 221 required by the alignment cam bolts, I'd like to check those now and after each alignment. Even if I tell the dealer to do it to spec, I feel like I'll just get a fly in my hamburger.
 
Even if I tell the dealer to do it to spec, I feel like I'll just get a fly in my hamburger.
This, exactly.

Just for the record, the cam bolts are 207, the lower ball joint bridge to knuckle bolts are 221.

No, I'm not proud that I know those by heart.. probably means I lost a childhood memory or something.
 

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