Torque Converter stem

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Joined
Jan 3, 2015
Threads
18
Messages
363
Location
Lower Alabama
After pulling the motor, I found the TC stem/alignment nipple jammed inside the crank at an odd angle. I also have a little damage to the side of the spacer, almost looks like someone took a grinder to it. The stem from the TC has an odd warp or bend to it. I don't really want to replace the TC but i think the stem serves the same purpose as the alignment bushings on the block, to keep everything lined up perfectly to reduce vibration and protect seals. I took a look at how tight the flex plate to TC bolts were inside the FP. Plenty of room for the TC to be out of alignment with the crank. The warp damage to the stem looks very old. It is possible I snapped it off while removing the engine when I didn't make extra room by removing the radiator. I also thought the damage to the spacer might have been from the bell housing for the same reason, but I couldn't find any damage to the inside of the BH. Besides, I wouldn't think aluminum could damage steel like that with no damage to the aluminum. Some of these marks are behind the front of the flex plate, almost had to have happened before I got into it.
I included a photo of the flex plate at the FP/crank bolt holes. I have a strange spiral grind mark but it would have had to occur after I removed the plate as its under where the bolt head seats and the bolt would have been torqued enough to imprint into these markings. This could have happened while I was using a recovery socket (none of these FP bolts came out willingly) after these two bolts were removed if I slipped off another bolt. I can't remember if these marks correspond with the grind marks on the spacer.
Any thoughts are appreciated. One more thing, how stable should the TC be without the engine in? Mine wobbles a bit which is why I'm concerned about proper alignment. Theres no way to determine proper alignment of the TC to the crank which is probably what the stem was designed for.

So my question is, is replacing the TC absolutely necessary? Is there another way to ensure alignment, maybe tapered wedge washers (not sure this is the right name for them)?


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I went back to look at my original photos from the engine removal. The swirl markers on the FP had to have been there before removal. The smaller black plate that sits between the bolt heads and the FP would have kept me from marring the FP. The broken TC stem had been put back into the crank BACKWARDS. Im beginning to think this engine or tranny had been pulled before. This is what I get for buying a truck from a lawyer. Also not sure how the FP bolt became so torn up. And the FP grinder marks do correlate to the crank grinder marks.

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You can sent the converter it to a trans shop and they can make up a new alignment bushing and weld it on. I broke mine installing once. I can't remember the cost buy well under 100. Shop name is slipping me it's in east Tennessee. Maybe trans star something like that. Call around not all shops do it any more
 
There is another thread about this same issue, Ughhh, no fixes?
Mine is broken off too, i am thinking of just leaving it that way, since it's probably only used during transmission removal and installation.
Going to pick up a rebuilt TC this week. From what I've been told, the "pilot" is absolutely necessary. There is too much play around the flex plate bolts to line up the TC without it. Everything could be out of balance. You can end up tearing up your transmission front oil pump seal, then your main bearing and rear main seal, then your rod bearings. Rebuilt TCs are too cheap and an engine rebuild too expensive for me to take that chance. If you have the engine or tranny out, Id replace it. The TC shop I'm getting mine from would not reattach the pilot but they did want my core. Probably for the guts.
 

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