Top end cylinder #1 Clicking

[AmabilisCruiser]

Noticed a much stronger than usual clicking/tapping sound coming from top end. Sounded like old school rocker arm type valve noise (I know this is not the system used on this motor). It's a 1997 FJ80 with 215K miles. The PO - had the head rebuilt and it has less than 40K on it. The PO was a Toyota dealer mechanic.

RPMs increase and so does cycle rate of noise. Checked all accessories - definitely in upper internal engine. I listened to it with the stethoscope and the noise is loudest at the exhaust manifold area.

Local Toyota dealer checked valve clearance for adjustment - all within spec. Oil pump producing pressure to spec.

They checked to see about a "sprung cam gear" whatever that is - that was ok. They are now on day 4 of having the FJ80. And I'm not sure they will know.

Another local shop that wants to pull the head and do a complete tear down and rebuild for $2K - $3K.

I'm hopeful now for an exhaust manifold leak or something simple. Really hoping that it's not a broken valve spring or seat.

Anyone else out there have this happen?

 

[Jgrauman]

my exhaust is like swiss cheese, makes the same noise. i taped a shop vac to the tailpipe. put it on blower and sprayed the exhaust with soapy water... wow is all i have to say, bubbles bubbles everywhere. was pouring out at the ypipe/manifold union. I replaced those gaskets and it helped, but the PO cut out the cats and welded straight pipes and sections into the y pipe, it's all a mess and needs to be replaced. give it a shot, its free

 

[AmabilisCruiser]

I think I saw your post on that on another issue. Interesting - but isn't at any one time in the cam rotation an exhaust valve open? And wouldn't you be blowing exhaust pipe crud into that open cylinder?

Maybe I should take a closer look at the exhaust manifold in general.

 

[Jgrauman]

I think I saw your post on that on another issue. Interesting - but isn't at any one time in the cam rotation an exhaust valve open? And wouldn't you be blowing exhaust pipe crud into that open cylinder?

Maybe I should take a closer look at the exhaust manifold in general.

not sure how much "crud" is actually just sitting in there to be blown back out. Seems that anything loose is blown out under normal operating conditions. I've never had an issue with it.

 

[BILT4ME]

Noticed a much stronger than usual clicking/tapping sound coming from top end. Sounded like old school rocker arm type valve noise (I know this is not the system used on this motor). It's a 1997 FJ80 with 215K miles. The PO - had the head rebuilt and it has less than 40K on it. The PO was a Toyota dealer mechanic.

RPMs increase and so does cycle rate of noise. Checked all accessories - definitely in upper internal engine. I listened to it with the stethoscope and the noise is loudest at the exhaust manifold area.

Local Toyota dealer checked valve clearance for adjustment - all within spec. Oil pump producing pressure to spec.

They checked to see about a "sprung cam gear" whatever that is - that was ok. They are now on day 4 of having the FJ80. And I'm not sure they will know.

Another local shop that wants to pull the head and do a complete tear down and rebuild for $2K - $3K.

I'm hopeful now for an exhaust manifold leak or something simple. Really hoping that it's not a broken valve spring or seat.

Anyone else out there have this happen?

Things to check:
1) Torque on Harmonic Balancer to be 306 LB-FT.
2) Engine oil pressure (Actual with hard-line gauge, NOT what the dash gauge states, as those prove to be horribly inaccurate)
3) Check the distributor to make sure it does not have a crack in the cap or a bad spot that the rotor is contacting.
4) Check the torque on all the spark plugs, as sometimes a "tick" can be heard that is caused by a not-tight plug.
5) Timing Chain tensioner inside the timing cover. This is pressurized by the oil pressure and should go away after starrt-up. Sometimes the tensioner block can wear and crack or come off. When it does, it's a problem.

I doubt it is valve-train related unless something was not done correctly 40K ago.

Does the current mechanic have the valve cover off of it? If so, then they can visually see the chain tensioner below. It CAN be replaced without pulling the head and without pulling the engine, but it's a LOT of work. (27 man-hours)

Use a mechanic's stethoscope and check all idler pulleys, alternator, AC compressor, and look for exhaust leaks.

 

[AmabilisCruiser]

Oil pressure was done via an inline test at Toyota dealer. Cover is currently off - the dealer checked clearances of the valves. The word was that the "cam gear spring" was fine but it's worth asking again about the tensioner. Those are good tips.

I'm now reading a lot about cheap oil filters and how that screws up oil pressure. Not sure where they test pressure in line - but that may be something to check. Cheap too.....

 

[Grouseman]

Try some Marvel's Mystery oil in your oil. 1/3 of a bottle or so. Many here will call it snake oil. It is great cleaner and lubricant. Been using it for 40 years with 0 problems. Do some research on it. Gman

 

[AmabilisCruiser]

Dealer installed new chain tensioner, oil change with OEM filter. No change. They had sympathy for me and charged a minimal amount - which was nice of them. Dealer is at a loss and suspect is deeper in the engine than the top end - I'm not going to spend thousands in this rabbit hole. Marvel's Mystery oil it is and drive it until it blows.

 

[Grouseman]

Let's us know if she gets quieter with Marvels.

Gman

 

[AmabilisCruiser]

Well - catastrophic failure. Apparently some oil channels were blocked in the head - loss of lubrication, loss of pressure to chain tensioner and poof......

Shop cleaned out ports and clacking sound reduced considerably - but the damage was done.

Suspect that when the PO rebuilt head there were some metal shavings that weren't cleaned out well enough.

So - do I install a crate motor or scrap the rig. About $6K to have shop do a full motor swap. Dump it for $1500?

Nice rig - OME lift - 33" KO2s. Bumper, straight frame, etc.... No lockers.

Leaning toward fixing and keeping it.

 

[Rivman1243]

Fix it! Should be able to repair it for less than 6K! Your half way to a LS swap at that price

 

[inkpot]

So what was the actual damage? Cam gears? If it’s better, just drive I and shop for an eventual donor motor.

 

[94SRUNNER]

Fix it.

 

[AmabilisCruiser]

So what was the actual damage? Cam gears? If it’s better, just drive I and shop for an eventual donor motor.

Main bearings, pistons, cylinder walls, crank, etc.... Not even sure what the valve guides look like. It was amazing that compression and leak down were still ok and oil pressure was ok. A testament to the durability of the engine. The shop that works on these a lot said they've never seen a complete engine failure like this - they recommended that I get it towed.

 

[Grouseman]

Sorry to hear the bad news.

 

[BILT4ME]

Sorry for your lost.

CobtCon @arcteryx or @slow95z for a replacement used engine.

 

[slow95z]

I have a used engine. Message me for details.

 

[fj40z]

Fix it. When my motor went I found a clean 1FZ for $400, then had a local shop replace the motor for $1600. Couldn’t be happier with it.

 

[AmabilisCruiser]

Replaced motor - sorry that I didn't see your post slow95z. Picked it up today from shop and the used motor had 91K on it - zero sludge and runs perfect. Came with a 5 year/50K warranty. Sounds very quiet and runs like a Swiss watch. That was expensive though.....really expensive

 

[AmabilisCruiser]

Fix it. When my motor went I found a clean 1FZ for $400, then had a local shop replace the motor for $1600. Couldn’t be happier with it.

Wow! That is a fantastic deal - I didn't have the patience or time to find that good of a deal.