Tools needed for shock replacement (1 Viewer)

[TheMcCannon]

Search is killing me. I just need to know what size wrenches/sockets are required to replace the stock shocks (front/rear).

I know the top nut is 22mm because I took it to napa to try and get a flex wrench (which they didn't have).

Searching here / youtube I'm getting that the front lower bolts are 19mm and the rears are 17mm?

Is that correct?

So I need a 22mm, a 19mm, and a 17mm and vice grips and I should be good? (aside from other basic stuff like jackstands).

 

[vishmuzty]

Try Home Depot for the 22mm ratcheting combo wrench ($15 and carried in many stores), doesn't have to be flex head. Have a low-profile stubby 1/4 ratchet w/ 12mm socket (IIRC) to get bolts from top of shock fitting. You might need something like a strap wrench to keep the rear shocks from rotating as you back off that 22mm nut. The rest of the bolts are standard metric socket set sizes 10, 12, 14, 17 (and maybe a 19 or 21).

 

[leucadiacruiser]

I referred to this one a bunch - even installing OEM suspension. Soak the heck out of everything for a week with PB Blaster.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I'm pretty sure this is what I have. The flex head helped a bunch as I recall. Probably not required, but helped, I think.

https://amzn.to/33SY8yG

 

[nukegoat]

I welded a socket onto a rod, then bent the rod to make a magic shock tool. Highly recommend

 

[cmck]

Taking down the spare may seem obvious, but, that gives some access to the rears.

 

[DuckLN]

Flex head ratcheting 22 mm will do the rears without cutting holes. Use the search function - there is a very helpful thread on shock replacement.

 

[birch hill]

Probably just use a swazall. Bolts will be rusted on. I didn’t even try to wrench on my old ones.

 

[TheMcCannon]

Probably just use a swazall. Bolts will be rusted on. I didn’t even try to wrench on my old ones.

You were able to fit a sawsall in the rear?

Its in the garage now soaking in PB blaster. Flex head 22mm is supposed to arrive from Amazon on Friday. We'll see. I can at least get the fronts done I hope (I have a non-ratcheting 22mm as a backup).

 

[atnolan94]

My truck has no rust and I still cut mine off with a sawzall. Why sit there and fight them as they spin?

 

[suprarx7nut]

My truck has no rust and I still cut mine off with a sawzall. Why sit there and fight them as they spin?

I've done a couple trucks. Both times they came off with minimal fuss. It's awkward up there and they're normally tight and tough to remove, but I'd probably have put more work into it with a sawzall, plus I'd have metal shavings all over the garage and me.

I think the traditional wrench method is a good first attempt. Then you can move onto the nuclear option if needed, haha.

 

[atnolan94]

I've done a couple trucks. Both times they came off with minimal fuss. It's awkward up there and they're normally tight and tough to remove, but I'd probably have put more work into it with a sawzall, plus I'd have metal shavings all over the garage and me.

I think the traditional wrench method is a good first attempt. Then you can move onto the nuclear option if needed, haha.

You point about metal shavings everywhere is very real

 

[cmck]

It was a sawzall for me too with a flex head wrench. The new shocks got plenty of anti-seize on the upper threads.

 

[Jczajka]

On my LX I used a 22/24mm offset combo wrench, that I cut the 24mm end off and bent the wrench shaft so it was angled down more and a breaker bar could fit on it.

I also used a 22mm O2 sensor wrench with a flexible socket wrench in the rear that seemed to work best for me.

A good heavy duty strap wrench helps hold the shock from spinning for sure.

It's a real pain dealing with the rears and AHC. The idea of drilling a hole in the truck and doing everything from the top crossed my mind many times.

 

[TheMcCannon]

Well I got the fronts done with the non-ratcheting 22mm. It took a lot of heat and a 5ft lead pipe and a mangled shock body, but its done. Didn't even attempt the rears yet.

Given how the fronts went I have a feeling I'm going to be drilling some holes just so I can get the heat gun on the rear nuts, so I just ordered a deep socket 22mm (so now I have a non-ratcheting 22 box wrench, a flex head ratcheting 22mm which showed up after I had finished the fronts, and the 22mm deep socket is on the way). Also ordered a 2 pack strap wrench because I'll likely be doing the rears alone and with two of us and a variety of channel locks and pipe wrenches we only just barely could hold the front shock bodies from spinning while mangling them pretty good.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Well I got the fronts done with the non-ratcheting 22mm. It took a lot of heat and a 5ft lead pipe and a mangled shock body, but its done. Didn't even attempt the rears yet.

Given how the fronts went I have a feeling I'm going to be drilling some holes just so I can get the heat gun on the rear nuts, so I just ordered a deep socket 22mm (so now I have a non-ratcheting 22 box wrench, a flex head ratcheting 22mm which showed up after I had finished the fronts, and the 22mm deep socket is on the way). Also ordered a 2 pack strap wrench because I'll likely be doing the rears alone and with two of us and a variety of channel locks and pipe wrenches we only just barely could hold the front shock bodies from spinning while mangling them pretty good.

That does not bode well for your upcoming experience with the rears...

Best of luck to ya.

 

[Jczajka]

Drilling a hole and going in from the top is your best best. Took me probably an hour to remove my rear AHC shocks on a southern truck with no rust on the shock hardware. Even then I wished I had just cut holes in my truck.

 

[Dwight S]

Spray your lower rear shock bolts with PB Blaster for a few days and let it soak in.
On mine, we had real issues separating the shock from the mount. We ended up using a hydraulic jack body frame kit to separate the shock from the mount. And this was on a southern truck with no rust.

 

[phatdragon]

On the rears I had good success soaking with a PB Blaster for a week, Then clamping with the vise grips and using a ratcheting head 22mm wrench. In retrospect I would just sawzall the bolt off the top. as others have recommended.

 

[fblainen11]

Sawzall. And a ratcheting flex head 22mm wrench is a must...buy the right tool for the job or take it to someone.