Tools for CV boots and wheel bearing repack?

[wareagle]

Guys,

I need to place an order for several tools for upcoming service. I'll be replacing CV boots and repacking wheel bearings. I've misplaved a few tools since my last run in with CV boots. Can I get a run down on any specialty tools needed for the 100 series? Here's my current list:
large brass punch
54mm thin wall socket. (current 54mm socket is too thinck)
CV banding / cutting tool
wheel bearing poacking tool
seal puller

Also, I'll be ordering off amazon, so any recommendations on budget priced tools are appreciated.

Thanks,

Mark

 

[pfran42]

Duck-billed snap ring pliers.

-Sent from a smartphone that can't spell.

 

[hankinid]

Guys,

I need to place an order for several tools for upcoming service. I'll be replacing CV boots and repacking wheel bearings. I've misplaved a few tools since my last run in with CV boots. Can I get a run down on any specialty tools needed for the 100 series? Here's my current list:
large brass punch
54mm thin wall socket. (current 54mm socket is too thinck)
CV banding / cutting tool
wheel bearing poacking tool
seal puller

Also, I'll be ordering off amazon, so any recommendations on budget priced tools are appreciated.

Thanks,

Mark

The FSM and the FAQ's here.

54mm socket is Otowanna Tool #6612 or equivalent, mine came from Amazon. No longer have the link but you can see it here...54mm Toyota Wheel Bearing Socket

I also scored a Lisle wheel bearing packer on the same order, though you can do just as good a job with your hands and thin rubber gloves.

First time I did it I wish I had lock ring pliers, I picked mine up locally, it's marked "Warne Tools" and looks like this... Lock Ring Pliers SKT-7635 ...you may go insane without this tool. You'll need the appropriate lock rings from Toy to set the axle to hub clearance correctly when you finish. I'd also get a couple of lock washers for the spindle nuts if you find yours toasted when you disassemble.

Seal driver for the inner seal.

50 pound fish scale...had it already, got it from Cabelas iirc...much discussion on bearing clearance settings using the scale and torquing per the FSM...check the FAQ section before you start. I used the FSM method and clearance on both sides after 30K was perfect.

Slee's inner hub bearing lube tool...worth it's weight in gold.

Torque wrench...47-ish ft. lb for the spindle nuts and 24 ft. lb. for the drive plate nuts, iirc.

Can't help you w/ the CV stuff as knock-wood mine are still OK.

hth and pm me if you need more. 2 job, maybe.

Steve

 

[Trunk Monkey]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/531915-tools-blown-cv-front-diff.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/506866-wheel-bearings-break-job.html

 

[4Peanut]

In addition to what has already been suggested, you'll need a pitman arm puller to remove the upper ball joint (I bought a wide puller for the upper ball joint and a narrower pulley puller for the lower ball joint though I didn't need the latter). I was able to remove the half shaft by just removing the upper ball joint. Some remove both, some just the lower. I used the center cap tool from the tool kit to remove the seals. The bearing/race/seal install kit I rented did not have large enough discs to reinstall the inner race (had a Toyota dealer reinstall them for me) or install the seal (used a small, plastic cutting board...don't tell my wife).

DO NOT try to remove the ABS speed sensor! Follow it from the hub up into the engine compartment and unclip it. Then remove the bolts from the brackets holding it in place along this path and feed the slack towards the hub so you can swing the steering knuckle out of the way. It's an expensive mistake to try to wrestle it off. Ask me how I know.

I purchased my 54mm socket from WabFab. It's also a good time to change the differential fluids, so make sure you have the correct sockets.

 

[Gottagetone]

Ya don't need a bearing repacker, you can fill your palm with grease and force the grease into the bearing just by pushing the bottom of the bearings into your palm and working your way around the bearing. Look for videos on youtube and you will see what I am talking about. All you need to pull the seal is a screw driver or pry bar, they will pop right out. You can find the good duck billed type snap ring pliers at O'riely auto parts for about $18, those are key.

 

[Copenhagen1]

Guys,

I need to place an order for several tools for upcoming service. I'll be replacing CV boots and repacking wheel bearings. I've misplaved a few tools since my last run in with CV boots. Can I get a run down on any specialty tools needed for the 100 series? Here's my current list:
large brass punch
54mm thin wall socket. (current 54mm socket is too thinck)
CV banding / cutting tool
wheel bearing poacking tool
seal puller

Also, I'll be ordering off amazon, so any recommendations on budget priced tools are appreciated.

Thanks,

Mark

I literally just did this. Haven't done the boots yet but I ordered pfran's boot clamps so that I didn't have to purchase a CV banding specialty tool. When you look at the list of owners he has sent them to, it is a who's who of the 100 forum. I figure they must be good...

On the cv boot replacement:
*i purchased a pitman arm puller after reading numerous threads on this forum.
*pfrans CV10 kit (as mentioned previously)
* 2 boot kits 04427-60120 list $40.00

On the bearing repack:
*duck billed snap ring pliers (as mentioned)
*brass punch to loosen cone washers.
*new gasket for flange 43422-60070 list $1.93
*54mm socket (bought mine off amazon as well OTC 6612 $26)
*new lock washer 90215-42025 list $2.64
*new seal 90311-70011 list $26.35
*various 12mm, 14mm 17mm sockets for misc removal of things
*I bought a 25# fish scale because you only need 6-10# and I thought the bigger the scale the less accurate it would be at the lower end. I may be crazy. I bought this one: http://demandware.edgesuite.net/sit...apala/sku/25_lb_tube_scale_rmws-25.png?sw=525
*I watched this video and although I didn't do it exactly the way he did it, he uses vice grips on the cone washers to help persuade them out. It helped me. Land Cruiser, Lexus front rotor and brake replacement tutorial - YouTube

If you need a seal puller... get one. You can do the same thing with a screw driver though.

I cut a piece of 2x4 about 4" long and seated my new seal with that and a deadblow hammer. The bearing race/seal drivers I looked at were not big enough to seat the inside race or seal. The bearing is about 3.5" and the biggest driver I saw available locally was 3.155". I am sure there are bigger ones available but get kind of cost prohibitive.

Since you are doing a repack, not new bearings, then you will not have to disturb the races. I did new bearings and races and used the 2x4 to start driving the new races in, then used the brass punch to slowly work them down into the seated position.

Good luck.

ps... I put list prices but I got them from Onur for considerably less. Also, part numbers are for a 2001 Toyota LC. I would guess they are all the same?

 

[hankinid]

Ya don't need a bearing repacker, you can fill your palm with grease and force the grease into the bearing just by pushing the bottom of the bearings into your palm and working your way around the bearing. Look for videos on youtube and you will see what I am talking about. All you need to pull the seal is a screw driver or pry bar, they will pop right out. You can find the good duck billed type snap ring pliers at O'riely auto parts for about $18, those are key.

Agree on the repacker and seal pulling. Your lock ring pliers will have checkering on the outside flat jaw surfaces.

Steve

 

[Anthony.L]

Great timing with this thread. I literally just called Onur yesterday and ordered everything needed to rebuild my CV's. Also got a Stoptech brake kit (not the crazy one) coming to perform at the same time.

BTW, for others needing tools for this job like myself. If you have a Harbor Freight nearby that is the ticket. I stopped at the one 5 mins from my house tonight and they had almost everything I needed in stock and on sale!

Pitman Arm Puller for the upper ball joint, on sale for $9.99

Pitman Arm Puller & Tie Rod Puller

Pulley Puller for the lower ball joint, on sale for $12.99

Automotive Pulley Puller

Seal puller, on sale for $5.99

Seal Puller w/2 Tips

2 lb. brass hammer, on sale for $23.99

2 Lb. Brass Hammer with Hickory Wood Handle

The same items on Amazon are twice the price! The only thing they didn't have is the 3/4 brass drifts. I will need to order those online, or look somewhere else locally.

 

[OregonLC]

Replaced the PS diff seal yesterday and discovered this trick. Way easier than the drift+hammer method. Literally one strike with the 3 lbs hammer and it was in. Wish I would have thought of this before. It's the perfect tool for the job.











BTW, no reason at all to remove the CV all the way or even to mess with the hub end. Just undo the UCA and swing the knuckle forward. It creates enough space to sneak the diff end out and past the seal.