Too Much Rake/Squat

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Joined
Nov 18, 2003
Threads
115
Messages
248
How much rake is normal for a LC (mine's a 2004 with stock 18" wheels and stock suspension). I know it's not a scientific measurment, but the font vs back difference in gaps between the top of my tire to the inside of the the top of the wheel arch is pretty big. In the rear, there's about a 6-7" space/gap while in the font, the gap is only 3.5-4".

Assuming that this difference is too much, is the fix to crank the torsion bars? How much should I raise the front (I want to keep a decent ride and I don't want to ruin any seals or anything).

Note that the car has been pretty recently aligned and it doesn't pull or anything.

Thanks!!
 
I believe they are set up like that from the factory... something about load carrying.

crank up your t-bars for a quick fix
 
How much rake is normal for a LC (mine's a 2004 with stock 18" wheels and stock suspension). I know it's not a scientific measurment, but the font vs back difference in gaps between the top of my tire to the inside of the the top of the wheel arch is pretty big. In the rear, there's about a 6-7" space/gap while in the font, the gap is only 3.5-4".

Assuming that this difference is too much, is the fix to crank the torsion bars? How much should I raise the front (I want to keep a decent ride and I don't want to ruin any seals or anything).

Note that the car has been pretty recently aligned and it doesn't pull or anything.

Thanks!!


Rake is typically 20-25mm. If you raise/lift the front be sure to maintain at least 50-60mm of suspension droop.
 
Don't worry about measuring droop.

Just measure the front's length from the center-cap-center, straight up to the wheel well. Adjust both T-bars upward until your increased measurement is 2" more (higher). You'll be just fine ride-wise, droop-wise, seal-wise pretty-much OK though at 2" you might want to add a diff drop to help the CV angle. If you're worried about this, just stop at 1.5" increase. Enjoy!
 
Up to 2" higher up front if he wants a level truck. I'd not do it. I like the rake. In fact, at 2" he might look like one of those Chevy 4x4's with the higher front. :D
 
Don't worry about measuring droop.

Just measure the front's length from the center-cap-center, straight up to the wheel well. Adjust both T-bars upward until your increased measurement is 2" more (higher). You'll be just fine ride-wise, droop-wise, seal-wise pretty-much OK though at 2" you might want to add a diff drop to help the CV angle. If you're worried about this, just stop at 1.5" increase. Enjoy!


The best way is to measure droop. The fastest way is not too...
 
The best way is to measure droop. The fastest way is not too...

Dude. This guy just wants to reduce his rake. He's not doing a super wheeling mod. Give the droop-Fox notation/recommendation a rest.

Old Man Emu has the medium bolt-on lift kit for 1 3/4". No diff drop needed. No need to pay somebody or take the time to make a droop measurement. That's rediculous.

1.5 to 2" up is fine...no need to complicate it for this user.
 
Shotts, bad advice if you do not know where the truck sits currently. You do not have to pay someone to measure droop. Put a floor jack under the front of the truck (center in a suitable location under a cross member, measure the lip of the fender, jack up just until tire comes of the ground. Measure lip again. That is the droop. 50mm to 60mm expected.

If you do not have enough droop you will lift tires in corners etc etc.
 
Shotts, bad advice if you do not know where the truck sits currently. You do not have to pay someone to measure droop. Put a floor jack under the front of the truck (center in a suitable location under a cross member, measure the lip of the fender, jack up just until tire comes of the ground. Measure lip again. That is the droop. 50mm to 60mm expected.

If you do not have enough droop you will lift tires in corners etc etc.

On your web site, or any web site selling the 2" OME kit....where does it caution the buyer/installer that they must check droop Before or After to make sure the lift works with their given truck? Exactly....nowhere. Both stock and OME shocks offer about 7.5" wheel travel.

Lifting up to 2" up front is safe without needing to measure anything.....or the lift kits would carry a disclaimer.
 
Shotts, please dont start...I foresee the future and you're not winning this one. Minimum droop should be watched for on any suspension setup, not just 100s.
 
Shotts, please dont start...I foresee the future and you're not winning this one. Minimum droop should be watched for on any suspension setup, not just 100s.

Ahhhhh, start what Lord?

My advice stands and is sound. So can you answer why the OME 2" kit doesn't first have the installer check for droop and then after the install? Seriously....can anyone answer that?

The 100 suspension has 2" of front lift to play with. That's why the kits go up to 2" and are simple bolt-ons, not "measure your truck first kits".

So it's not me who's starting anything. Damn, I feel like Fox News in here.

I suppose we can look at this another way...................

OK FOLKS: Make sure you measure your droop before making any suspension changes. You might find out that somebody played with your stock truck and the front end is not set to stock specs. It could be too high right now because someone altered it and raising it 2" could be bad. So, before doing any work, check to see that all is OK before changing settings. There you go...Spressoman and Slee win.

Oh, and I'll say it again...........THERE'S 2-INCHES TO PLAY WITH IN THE FRONT SUSPENSION BEFORE POSSIBLE TROUBLES COME INTO PLAY.

Notice the original postee says STOCK SUSPENSION.

Over and out. Argue amongst yourselves and confuse the guy. I do look forward to his or ANYBODIES post after-the-fact about how happy they are with a 2-inch lift. Haven't we all done it and our droop is in spec because the OME kit has it figured?
 
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You dont have to check for droop beforehand if you're swapping the t-bars. If your adjusting them you want to make sure you set yourself up with enough droop. Installing new bars, you would check for minimum droop when indexing the bars anyways.
 
loud- i see what you said yesterday. haha so true.


check for droop? i dont... but mine is raked pretty mad in the rear. Want to say a good 1.5". would like to level out. but so ive read dont want to snap that bolt. So Ive hear. Which way do we turn it? anybody have a picture of the bolt to turn? dont wannt turn something for something else. but may be getting slee's lift soon.
 
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On your web site, or any web site selling the 2" OME kit....where does it caution the buyer/installer that they must check droop Before or After to make sure the lift works with their given truck? Exactly....nowhere. Both stock and OME shocks offer about 7.5" wheel travel.

In the OME instructions that are supplied with the torsion bars :D


Lifting up to 2" up front is safe without needing to measure anything.....or the lift kits would carry a disclaimer.

Provided you know that you are lifting from stock.
 
So can you answer why the OME 2" kit doesn't first have the installer check for droop and then after the install? Seriously....can anyone answer that?

It does, in the instructions of the torsion bars.

The 100 suspension has 2" of front lift to play with. That's why the kits go up to 2" and are simple bolt-ons, not "measure your truck first kits".

No, but they are measure your truck after :D


OK FOLKS: Make sure you measure your droop before making any suspension changes. You might find out that somebody played with your stock truck and the front end is not set to stock specs. It could be too high right now because someone altered it and raising it 2" could be bad. So, before doing any work, check to see that all is OK before changing settings. There you go...Spressoman and Slee win.

We advise on working with droop after lift and not a measurement of lift. That is the correct way to do it.


Oh, and I'll say it again...........THERE'S 2-INCHES TO PLAY WITH IN THE FRONT SUSPENSION BEFORE POSSIBLE TROUBLES COME INTO PLAY.

You can not simply assume all trucks is at the same height in the front. So why not admit that after lift droop is better than a arbitrary X+2" situation, where X is unknown?


Notice the original postee says STOCK SUSPENSION.

Yes, but as you have pointed out, torsion bars can be adjusted. You pointed out the flaw in your argument already.

Over and out. Argue amongst yourselves and confuse the guy.

There is no confusion about working with post lift droop.
 
Bottom line........

Take a hundred 100-Series in stock form. Crank the T-bars to add 2" over their current height. How many will have adequate droop?

Answer: ALL of them (unless some previous owner already messed with them and what are the chances of that?)(And this postee already mentioned his shows rake with the stock suspension, so it's in spec.)
 
John, If you were building something out of wood and needed an exact length would you measure or would you just cut it hoping you eyeballed it correctly?
 
John, If you were building something out of wood and needed an exact length would you measure or would you just cut it hoping you eyeballed it correctly?

Dude...no spin buddy!

We're not talking about lifting this 2004 truck to the extreme (over 2-inches, over 2.5 inches, whatever). We're not tweaking mm by mm.
Up to 2" over stock is a no brainer unless somebody miraculaously already tweaked the bars up without the owner knowing it. You-all are simply looking for ways to complicate this for this postee.

I'll not waste my time on this any more.
 
Bottom line........

Take a hundred 100-Series in stock form. Crank the T-bars to add 2" over their current height. How many will have adequate droop?

Answer: ALL of them (unless some previous owner already messed with them and what are the chances of that?)(And this postee already mentioned his shows rake with the stock suspension, so it's in spec.)

Pretty good change that it has been played with, or do you think we are the only people that mod the trucks. With that uncertainty, the droop is a good check to do.
 
Up to 2" over stock is a no brainer unless somebody miraculaously already tweaked the bars up without the owner knowing it.

How would a newbie know that it has not been tweaked? These trucks have now changed hands 2, 3 or 4 times. Is it so inconceivable that someone might have tweaked the bars? Just because you don't want to measure droop, does not mean you should advise other people to ignore it.

That is the point of this. You know what happens when you assume something? Makes an ass our of you and me ! :D
 

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