Too Much Gear Shift Lever Play (26 Viewers)

[nashqadri]

Hi,

When i bought this LX450 a year ago, the shift lever had some play in it but it was manageable. Never thought of fixing it but after replacing my dashboard, the play has gotten worse. Perhaps i forced the lever back totwards R or D a bit too much to drag the dash out and never realized it. Pretty sure that is the cause. It is not that simple anymore to put it in park. I really have to force it forward to get it in P. If it moves just a little while the car is parked, the car wont crank since the gear wont send the P signal to the ECU.

Before it gets worse and i stall somewhere, what's the best way of fixing it. I see in the manual there are some bushes in the overall shifting assembly underneath the center console. And then there is an adjustment thing right where the shift rod meets the transmission. Dont know what its called. Before i mess with any of it, i am looking for some feedback from anyone who has had this problem and how was it fixed. Which part of the shifter do i start working on? Thank you.

 

[NeverFinis]

I have never really heard of this issue.

Time to take apart the center console, and inspect transmission hard linkage underneath.

There is a cross tube that transfers and it might be jamming up.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Why not try adjusting the linkage underneath? It’s an easy job if your truck isn’t rusty. The FSM has the procedure.

 

[Malleus]

Replace these two bushings (grommets in Toyo–speak):

Be prepared: they'll set you back a cup of coffee's worth of green.

There are two bushings on the shift lever rod (axle), too.

 

[Kernal]

@nashqadri : can you describe the play in the shifter ie: does it rock side to side, is it sloppy front to back, or is there rotational movement if you twist the shifter handle?

Already mentioned a few times above, definitely check the linkage however be very careful if working under the vehicle. Be sure the Emergency brake is set, wheels chocked and blocked (on a lift is best) because the vehicle can/will roll if you're messing with the linkage and it comes out of Park while you're under the vehicle.

If you don't find the answer with the linkage under the vehicle all the guts for the shifter are located under the center console under the shifter.

There's a shifter axle shaft (running horizontally, see diagram above) that connects to a vertical lever (not shown above) that then dives through the floor to the linkage under the floor. If the nuts holding either the shifter to the axle shaft or the axle shaft to the vertical lever came loose that also might explain odd/loose shifter movements. All that is under the center console section below the shifter.

There are also two plastic bushings for the shifter axle shaft (under the console) that can cause some slop if they're totally broken/missing.
WARNING: probably best not to mess with those specific bushings if you do remove the center console unless they're obviously broken (because
they're a pain to replace). Post up photos of what you find if you dig into it.

Either way, post up some photos of the linkage under the vehicle ie: with the transmission in Park and in Drive to show how it moves, or not.

If might help also to take a photo(s) showing how much the shifter moves ie: the slop.


Here's one video showing the linkage under the vehicle (with worn bushings):




This next video shows what's under the shifter console:



One more video, this is for a 98 Four Runner so it's not exactly the same shifter mechanism as the 80 Series but somewhat similar (added to give the OP
an idea of what to look for):

Wobbly Shifter Fix - 3rd Gen Toyota 4Runner

In this video, I walk you through the simple steps to fixing a wobbly shifter on a 3rd generation Toyota 4Runner with an automatic transmission.The bushings ...

www.youtube.com

 

[Malleus]

Thanks to @Kernal for correcting me; ignore my comment about the foam –Toyota did that on the 100 series and I had one apart this week, which stuck in my head. So much for internet experts. Read the manual instead.

Note that the relay rod connecting the shifter to the transmission will fit either way. Make sure you get it back on the same way it came off, or it'll feel weird.

Whatever you do, DO NOT FOLLOW this redneck's advice and cut the O/D switch wires. Take the console off the floor and unplug the switch, if you have to remove the shift knob. Sheesh.

 

[Kernal]

I didn't watch the whole video so didn't see the part where Billy Bob cut the wires . Linked it here just to give the OP an idea of how things come apart.
If I find a better video I'll post it up instead.

So yeah, definitely don't cut the wires.

 

[NeverFinis]

I was wondering about the foam as I remembered a couple of plastic bushings..

I mean, if OP is doing all that work, I would take apart the 4WD lever assembly and regrease it as well.

 

[Malleus]

...and get the bushing and rod end, too.
90386-08007 & 33740-26010
and (3) clips while you're at it.
90468-14017

 

[Devils Paw 80]

@nashqadri : can you describe the play in the shifter ie: does it rock side to side, is it sloppy front to back, or is there rotational movement if you twist the shifter handle?

Mine has slop front to back, which I imagine is the most common with these. Thanks for the video.

 

[nashqadri]

Thanks to all for the help.

@Kernal The play is back and forth. No play at all sideways. The youtube video you shared posted by LND CRUZIN, is very helpful. I won't have time to go under the vehicle till Monday evening but when I do, I will make a video of all the play and what i see underneath by Tuesday or so. Looks like the bushings that i may need are also available to order.

 

[Kernal]

If replacing the rubber bushings and other hardware on the linkage (under the vehicle) doesn't fix your issue and you then take the center console off inside the vehicle to check the shifter mechanism (ie the shifter parts inside the cabin), post up some photos of what you find before dig into it.

Reason for this is that the plastic bushings for the shifter axle shaft (under the shifter console, see photos below) are difficult to replace ie: don't replace them unless necessary. I did that years ago while I had the shifter plate out (had sent it to be replated) and had a heck of a time getting new OEM bushings installed, ruined a few of them trying to get the OEM plastic bushings installed. It seemed as if the new Toyota replacement plastic axle shaft bushings were the wrong size.

Ended up finding a Flanged sleeve bushing from McMaster Carr made of Rulon J. I don't recall the dimensions and lost the photos of that replacement bushing but the shaft OD and the pipe ID can be measured to get the correct sizes then search McMaster. After some sanding the ID of the shifter axle shaft housing (pipe thingy) with a barrel disc and a dremel (to remove all the new plating that had narrowed the ID of the hole) I was able to get the replacement Rulon J (non-Oem) bushings installed without breaking.

Having said all that, IME those shifter shaft bushings can wear so if you find that shifter axle shaft is sloppy due to worn plastic bushings on the shifter axle shaft and can afford to have your 80 out of service for awhile you look for the correct size/type of flanged sleeve bushing, it can be done.


Source of Flanged sleeve bushings:

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

Dimensions taken by @SucioP (he reported the bushings were slightly loose, so wouldn't hurt to take your own measurements to confirm then order the closest sizes, one up, one down??). Generally when measuring something like this you round up to the next closest size (MM or Inch). You may have to choose an inch size flanged sleeve bushing if it's closer to the actual dimensions.

Shaft housing ID - 15.88mm
Shaft OD - 18mm
Length of sleeve bushing - 11.73mm (there should be room to use a longer bushing if needed as the ID along the length of housing (bore) is the same through the entire bore, no step)


Thread from 2014:

K

Thread 'Has anyone replaced the shift(er) control bushings on a FZJ-80?'

Oct 8, 2014

Got my shifter assembly out of the truck to do some service and decided to replace the shifter control bushings while I was in there but have been having difficulty getting the bushings and control shaft back into the housing. The tolerances seem too tight between the new bushings, the housing and the shaft.

I'll post up some photos shortly.

• Kernal
• Replies: 21
• Forum: 80-Series Tech

Here's some photos from that thread:

Shifter plate after sending off to get re-plated with Yellow Zinc. Note: Yellow Zinc plating IME goes on
thicker than the original plating and that process can change dimensions particularly the bore (ID)
of the shifter shaft housing (pipe thingy):

Showing the shifter axle with part of a broken OEM replacement bushing on one end:

Looking down the barrel of the shifter axle housing:

Close up of the shifter axle shaft partially installed with a new OEM bushing that fractured while attempting to install. Grease
used was Molykote 33 Medium (Lithium base silicone grease).

 

[nashqadri]

Hey @Kernal

Here are the videos.





Please share your thoughts.
Thanks again.

 

[Kernal]

First impression is that the linkage (bar) shown in your first video needs to be adjusted.

Did this shifter issue start suddenly, slowly getting worse, or was any work done on the vehicle before it started,
any accidents?

Do you know if the engine or transmission have ever been removed or replaced on your vehicle?

It does not appear that the issue is related to the plastic bushings for the shifter axle shaft, I would not dig into that.

Watch the first video I posted (from above) again, focus on the linkage adjustment starting ~4:00

I would disconnect the linkage as shown then see if you can push the shifter handle all the way forward into Park.

Then confirm that the lever that's connected to the transmission is fully in the Park position.

Then reconnect the linkage as shown in the video.

Here's the same link from above: watch it all but focus around 4:00 onward



WARNING: again, be sure the Emergency brake is working and fully pulled tight and the wheels are chocked and blocked so the vehicle doesn't roll
while you're under it

Others with more experience with this issue can/will chime in with advice

 

[nashqadri]

Yes, the engine was completely removed and then put it back in. But it was not that bad right after that. I actually never felt the need to fix it. It was only after I replaced the dashboard was when I felt it all got messed up. I get what you’re saying, though I will do that adjustment.

 

[Kernal]

Make another video once you're working on the linkage; it would be interesting to see if the shifter will go fully into Park
both with the linkage disconnected then after the linkage reattached and adjusted.

Best to do this on a level surface along with chocks, blocks, Emergency brake set.