Too many strange things happening to come up with a good title....please read. (1 Viewer)

[marlow]

Hello All,
I did some repairs on my 1996 FJ80 (211K) yesterday and I'm having other problems that may or may not be associated.

History: The truck through a code after purchase telling me there was a flow issue with the EGR system. Passed emission ok so I just put it on the back burner. It also had an exhaust leak between cats. Other than that it runs and drives great.

Repairs: Yesterday I replaced the exhaust gasket, pulled EGR valve and module and cleaned with carb cleaner, did drive belts, front brakes. After I put the truck on the ground, started right up all is good. The next day driving home from work the heater stops blowing heat. My first thought was that I developed an air pocket somehow. Radiator was a little low, cap kind of spongy, so I filled it bought a new cap parked it on a hill and tried to burp the system. Heater control valve is open, hoses and tubes going into the firewall are hot but the exit pipes and hoses that return to the T stat housing are warm at best. Both rear heater and cab heater are still blowing cold.

The following morning, the temp is around 25 F and I have a rough idle at start up. I drive the kids to school and the first half mile was rough and the CEL starts blinking. It clears up and drive fine to the parts store where we pulled a number 6 misfire code. Fast forwards to last night, I start the truck and it bellows white smoke, rough idle which smooths out after the first half mile. The smoke smelled sweet so I fear the head gasket is giving up the fight. Any thoughts on the matter are greatly appreciated. I'm guessing my next step would be a leak down test to see if this is indeed the problem. Thank you in advance.

 

[rolliges]

Sounds like you know....

 

[Tedward]

Leak down, compression and the old bubble test thing on the radiator cap that tests for exhaust.

 

[baldilocks]

Best Loaner Block Tester Parts for Cars, Trucks & SUVs

This tool is easy to use. Your story sounds very familiar. A few years ago I bought an 80 that came with a documented engine rebuild at a well know shop with only 12k miles on it. After a couple thousand miles of ownership I discovered the egr vacuum tube was left off the valve but in a way that was hard to notice. I connected the vacuum hose thus enabling the valve to open and the next time I drove it I had major issues that sound similar to yours but more dramatic.

I pulled #6 spark plug to find it steam cleaned to perfection even though that cylinder did ok on a compression test.

I contacted the engine builder, and come to find out, the PO was too cheap to pay for OEM gaskets and a felpro gasket was used.

Keep us in the loop.

 

[fz1boxer]

RIP- head gasket.
when i removed my upper intake plenum the EGR passage was blocked at the throttle body(crusty)also in the 90 degree turn it makes into the main airflow,if you did not clean that the EGR is still blocked.

 

[baldilocks]

RIP- head gasket.
when i removed my upper intake plenum the EGR passage was blocked at the throttle body(crusty)also in the 90 degree turn it makes into the main airflow,if you did not clean that the EGR is still blocked.

He fixed the egr problem. The egr opened and hot gases were introduced into the head behind #6 cyl and killed an old head gasket.
Had he never fixed the egr system, this thread would not exist. It’s too ironic that the problem manifested immediately after the egr system repair, exactly like mine did.

 

[fz1boxer]

got it.
fortunately i don't know how long the passage itself was blocked on mine,maybe just maybe mine will be good for awhile.

 

[fz1boxer]

i do remember when i finally took my egr apart that the vacuum line underneath the brown top hat was not connected to anything on the other end?

 

[marlow]

I pulled #6 spark plug and it looked fine. Not what I expected. I need to replace the valve cover gasket anyways so I decided it would be easier to remove the valve cover so that I can see which valves are closed to do the leak down test. Ive pulled all of the bolts and removed everything but the cover is not popping right off. Are these just difficult to get off due to the spark plug tube seals or am I missing something here? Temp has warmed up to around 55 F and she was still smoking pretty good while I was warming the engine to do the leak down test. Exhaust does not smell sweet however.

 

[marlow]

Found the last bolt lol! Just did the leak down test and it looks like number 6 cylinder has failed. I've done an FJ60 2F head gasket in the past but this is a different animal. Any lessons learned on this job that would be helpful if shared? Trying to stay positive about this and learn as much as I can about this truck. I am actually a vintage Mercedes guy, but the land cruisers have always been in our family and this one is going to be with me a long time so I want to do it right.

 

[baldilocks]

Sounds like you have what it takes to tackle this not so difficult job. Glad to offer my two cents, as I’m sure others will too, but there are many HG threads to draw on if you have the time to read them. You will receive advice on shortcuts and how, once
the head is off, you will have room to do some “while you are in there” type of preventive maintenance and repairs.

OEM gasket set
New head bolts or ARP studs
Head rebuild
Verify a deck trueness within specs
Don’t lose track of where the cam followers
go during reassembly
Inspect wire harness near the egr pipe and restore the insulation
New fuel filter
Be gentle with the ancient wire harness connectors
Consider sending the injectors out for servicing
Some people like to remove the hood for easier access (I did not)
This is an opportunity to remove, inspect, clean up, and reseal the engine oil cooler
@musthave just finished his HG job and had a good thread during the process
Don’t start before you own a copy of the fsm, it makes the job much easier.

 

[musthave]

Here’s my thread.

Head Gasket shot. Committed

Replacing the studs and nuts on the exhaust just makes sense. It’s inexpensive for OEM and it makes it easier to install too. Taking the nuts off use a snapping action not a constant push.

The 2 nuts and 1 bolt connecting upper and lower intake manifolds are the hardest and they’re not that bad. Light from above, brighter light from below and 30” of extensions. I used 3/8 inch drive to remove with ease.

Happy to offer advice and opinions as are many others. You’ll get through this.

 

[Tedward]

Sorry bout your #6.
I'm curious about your leak down test.
Would you tell us how obvious it was and some more about your experience, please.
I started to do one and need to get back to it when I get home in a couple weeks.