Todays wrenching (1 Viewer)

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Forefinger is feeling better, thanks!

Here's the pair as they first came out of the electrolytic bath this morning. The one on the bottom in both pictures is the original one, so it has now had both ends done.

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Here they are after rinsing and light once over with the broom and wire brush. More shiny areas are still showing up.

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This is what is left of the brownie pan. I see why they recommend using rebar.

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I put both back into the solution. This time I'm using a brake disc from a Jeep I used to have instead of the brownie pan. (I knew old Jeep parts could be worth something someday.) Another thing I'm going to do is keep the charger amperage on 50 instead of switching down to 10 and 2. This should speed up the process.

I'm not yet satisfied with the results. I did some more searching on the forum for electrolysis and obtained some more links in another thread. Rust removal by electrolysis Rust removal by electrolysis on a trailer frame

I originally used baking soda, two one pound boxes. One internet thread said this works because the baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) is chemically changed to sodium carbonate during the process. Baking soda can be altered to become sodium Carbonate by baking in it in the oven at 300 or so degrees for an hour. The alternative is to buy Arm& Hammer washing soda or Laundry Soda or Sodium carbonate at a pool supply place. I'm going to pick some up today, drain the tank and refill with fresh water and soda. The waste water is non-toxic and the high iron content is beneficial to certain plants. So I will be watering any of those that I might have in the yard.

I hope the changes give me faster results. By all accounts that I've read, it should work fine.
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Get this man a sandblaster. Sure its messy but it gets the job done and a great prep for paint.
 
I do have a very nice sand blaster and experience using it on a variety of surfaces. The delay in my getting this done is not getting the thing set up properly in the beginning. :doh: My chemical reaction isn't anywhere near as dramatic as what I have seen in the forum links.

I considered blasting to remove the paint and powder coat, but there wasn't enough left to deal with setting it up and cleaning up after. It took me about a 1/2 an hour with the wire wheel to get it cleaned off. (I'll ignore the damage to my favorite picker as that could have happened during any use of the grinder.) A large blasting booth is in my future plans since you can capture media for reuse and it does have its uses.

Blasting is time consuming and labor intensive on large parts because you have to do the work while the electrolysis works even while you are asleep or drinking :beer:. I can be :wrench: ing on something else while electrolysis is working on rust. You are correct about blasting being messy. Those media particles seem to find their way into places you don't want them and show up later on when you don't want them to. Blasting is also tough on the compressor unless you have a high volume, 100% duty one. Media is expensive (even at the outlet at our coal fired electric plant in town) and the blasting removes good metal along with the bad which weakens the metal, especially if you are doing sheet metal. You have to wear a hood with a shield that fogs up and should wear a respirator with proper clothing to avoid injury, black lung and COPD. It can be tough on your boots as well. It also doesn't work well on the inside of tubing, frames and other parts with blind areas.

Electrolysis is a good prep for paint. You should do a quick acid wash afterward with both methods to remove the flash rust that forms inside those little pits left by the blaster and where rust has taken its toll.

In one of the links I posted they did an entire trailer frame.

Did I mention my initial cost was $1? The washing soda I picked up today was under $5.50. I don't have much time invested other than the initial wheeling. Once I get this set up properly, I can do parts over and over again. I saw some lings where they did rear wheel brake cylinders, driveshafts, ujoints, etc. There's a lot of potential. Think about how many parts you could do like this with just a 5 gallon pail.

If I could totally immerse the parts, I could cover the barrel and bleed off the hydrogen gas to use in the flux capacitor I'm working on for the Swiss Miss. I'm going to dip her in my sister-in-law's soft pool once I work out the details for how to get it up and over the side. ;)

Tomorrow I start anew.
 
Not much wrenching, but while I had the radiator out i figured i would get rid of the chrome. Chrome don't get you home.
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Looks good, was so happy with the results when I dumped the chrome on mine.
 
Not much wrenching, but while I had the radiator out i figured i would get rid of the chrome. Chrome don't get you home.

not what they told me, but mine is rattle can....:hillbilly:
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Rust, Blood, Water & Electricity - How to De-Rust your RockRails

PROGRESS for sure. Changing the mixture to a box full of Sodium Carbonate with 55 gallons of water made the process work faster, better and smoother. This stuff is about $3 a box, makes your clothes cleaner and smell better and removes rust like a banshee.

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The sacrificial lamb this time around was a piece of perforated angle iron originally made for shelving. I was running at 50 amps on the 12V battery charger for 24 hours. Notice how much rust came off the rails and attached itself to the angle iron.

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Cleaned off the sludge and film. look's much better, eh?

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I will be prepping for paint in the next day or so. A little acid wash should take care of any flash rust.

One thing I did overlook was the tenacity of powder coating. In the areas where the powder coat was seriously eroded to the point that there was only bare metal, the electrolysis whipped the rust to bare metal. If there was an area where the powder coat did its job, the electrolysis can't get under it to lift it off. Electrolysis works on rust, it is not a stripper.

If you are working on unfinished steel or a part that has been stripped, this works great. Things that come to mind are driveshafts, axle housings, suspensions, frames, etc. A part that has paint or is powdercoated needs to have that stuff removed with stripper, grinding or sandblasting prior to dipping in the electrolysis unless you are wiling to accept the remaining paint and powdercoating.

It was a learning curve for me and something different. I'm happy to have to jumped in with both feet to try it and I hope some of you guys try it on some of your own parts. There are lots of parts on a truck that aren't coated. I'd recommend this over the labor intensive and more expensive methods to de-rust uncoated items, particularly those that can easily be dipped in a 5 gallon pail or smaller. A non-metal container must be used, and 5 gallon is not a problem. I was up to a 55 gallon plastic barrel which works for bigger stuff like rails and springs. You could do a whole frame inside and out.

Keep in mind that I spent less than $10 on all the soda used, including the stuff I shouldn't have started with in the beginning. Yeah, I used some electricity, but so does a grinder and the compressor to run a sandblaster. Not everyone has a blaster, but most of us have a battery charger. (From what I understand, an arcwelder works even better.)

Have fun!
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Started the cut & turn tonight, marked it about 1/4" or so off the factory weld and started cutting, I cut 1/8" all the way around, then another 1/8", then 1/8" more, thought I would see the layers, I'm 3/8ths down and don't see any layers?????
 
Tom, use a very bright light and look carefully, it is just a hair line crack and not easy to see in poor light.
Take your time and keep nipping away at it, once you've found it it's easy to follow around.

Jr.
 
Got my winch running. Not really sure how this happened and hope that it doesn't fail again.
Seems that one of the solenoids wasn't closing. Had the multimeter on the small posts to see
what kind of power was there when I hit the switch. started to work fine after that.
 
Got a drum big enough to fit a fzj80 into?

I'm thinking you could fill the 80 with solution and drop a girder hooked to the pos terminal through the sunroof and hook the negative to the door handle. I'm pretty sure you should also disconnect the battery in your truck. :idea:

I've got a pool

Pool works. If its metal, we have to be sure the plastic liner is solid to avoid conductivity complications or interference with your pacemaker when you go for a swim. :hillbilly:
 

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