Hello every one, this has been a lot of thinking and considerations to work out planning this.
1. ECU fuel control can stock ECU handle the turbo
2. What manifold / turbo combo to use
3. Intake air box and piping
4. exhaust system
5. Intercooler / plumbing to turbo
6. Transmission or clutch upgrades
7. Engine mods head gasket, head bolts, timing chain engine forged parts ect.
8. Fuel pump and possible e85
My rig is a 94 OBD1 ECU auto … not the best year to start with. I elected to super charge first as a let’s see how that goes.
Haltech ECU, e85 fuel sensor, dedicated IAT, Wide Band Haltech, coil over plug ignition, provisioned for Boost controller for when or if Turbo, hi flow injectors 980cc. Went piggy back ECU and it works, kept separate trans ECU and changed fuel pump and lines for E85 flex fuel. Performance noticeable improvement and better in cooler weather temps. IMO boosting beyond 5-6-7 psi you need to address IATs temps to help prevent spark knock in the engine. I elected to upgrade Knock
Sensors to less noisy versions , and make a dedicated shield cables to the knock sensors. I learned how to get a base sound levels on the knock sensors and set thresholds to detect knock.
Ran the truck 9 months or so and approaching 250k miles.
The ultimate upgrade would be turbo intercooled. With kit addressing the IATs the benefits IMO would be a huge amount. Unless cooler climate and perhaps hi elevations. In my 100 degree temps sea level area I wanted to work past the intercooling delima without having to be a designer and major fabricator. I searched out Australia PDI has a solution to mount an intercooler and relocate the trans oil cooler. However it’s for a diesel or 1FZ right hand drive trucks. Being no one else has ventured down this path with PDI intercooler with Left Hand Drive truck I felt I would be the 1st. I opted for 6 boost external boost controlled turbo, personal preference or cool factor and in my opinion better controlled boost targeting 15 psi up.
Ok, now 6boost creates another challenge, A/c suction line has to be re routed “ no big deal if you are changing the compressor anyways - and have the tools and I do” got swivel block fittings awaiting new line to make up.
Next dump pipe, the one provided from
HD auto the 02 bung and sweep is not totally correct for my setup. In the process of cut welded flange off , flip the pipe over. Shorter at the turbo connection and tack new collar on provided with the turbo. Ok, not a big deal. Next new 3 inch exhaust , stock exhaust IMO is two restrictive and need better flow. I went with stainless 3 inch Manta quite muffler diesel version. Cat isn’t required for my age truck where I live for its age. I am held up right now on the muffler for the exhaust. It mistakenly got left behind in Australia however it on its way.
I elected to do a grille back job. Replace all the rear heater piping, every coolant hose, new rear heater assy, and removed the trans and transfer cases to aid that.
When the engine was out hoping cylinders where not worn to bad, they were not but the combine piston and cylinder wear left lets bore the block. That lead to ok forged bottom end.
Don’t stop there, ARP studs, head , rods, Comectic head gasket their MLX better grade head gasket, new timing components Oe, new yota oil pump cover with pump, new valves and new valve springs.
The crank made standard with a polish and went back number 4 mains bearings, thrust OE and couldn’t find oe rod bearings. So clevite rod bearings. Time Machine work and parts for short block was done I pushed new Toyota short block cost.
Now some Custom machine work was done to my head and pistons was included in that price too. Maybe a 1000 bucks in my head machine work.
Ok, now got the engine together and why not, new crank balancer from Japan. Finally decided new valve cover and oil cooler too from Japan.
Just mocked up currently ….
To address the air box I went with 4 inch opening PISCO from Australia to upgrade that too. The brown on top is a protective coating and peels off. It’s clear looking through it.
1. ECU fuel control can stock ECU handle the turbo
2. What manifold / turbo combo to use
3. Intake air box and piping
4. exhaust system
5. Intercooler / plumbing to turbo
6. Transmission or clutch upgrades
7. Engine mods head gasket, head bolts, timing chain engine forged parts ect.
8. Fuel pump and possible e85
My rig is a 94 OBD1 ECU auto … not the best year to start with. I elected to super charge first as a let’s see how that goes.
Haltech ECU, e85 fuel sensor, dedicated IAT, Wide Band Haltech, coil over plug ignition, provisioned for Boost controller for when or if Turbo, hi flow injectors 980cc. Went piggy back ECU and it works, kept separate trans ECU and changed fuel pump and lines for E85 flex fuel. Performance noticeable improvement and better in cooler weather temps. IMO boosting beyond 5-6-7 psi you need to address IATs temps to help prevent spark knock in the engine. I elected to upgrade Knock
Sensors to less noisy versions , and make a dedicated shield cables to the knock sensors. I learned how to get a base sound levels on the knock sensors and set thresholds to detect knock.
Ran the truck 9 months or so and approaching 250k miles.
The ultimate upgrade would be turbo intercooled. With kit addressing the IATs the benefits IMO would be a huge amount. Unless cooler climate and perhaps hi elevations. In my 100 degree temps sea level area I wanted to work past the intercooling delima without having to be a designer and major fabricator. I searched out Australia PDI has a solution to mount an intercooler and relocate the trans oil cooler. However it’s for a diesel or 1FZ right hand drive trucks. Being no one else has ventured down this path with PDI intercooler with Left Hand Drive truck I felt I would be the 1st. I opted for 6 boost external boost controlled turbo, personal preference or cool factor and in my opinion better controlled boost targeting 15 psi up.
Ok, now 6boost creates another challenge, A/c suction line has to be re routed “ no big deal if you are changing the compressor anyways - and have the tools and I do” got swivel block fittings awaiting new line to make up.
Next dump pipe, the one provided from
HD auto the 02 bung and sweep is not totally correct for my setup. In the process of cut welded flange off , flip the pipe over. Shorter at the turbo connection and tack new collar on provided with the turbo. Ok, not a big deal. Next new 3 inch exhaust , stock exhaust IMO is two restrictive and need better flow. I went with stainless 3 inch Manta quite muffler diesel version. Cat isn’t required for my age truck where I live for its age. I am held up right now on the muffler for the exhaust. It mistakenly got left behind in Australia however it on its way.
I elected to do a grille back job. Replace all the rear heater piping, every coolant hose, new rear heater assy, and removed the trans and transfer cases to aid that.
When the engine was out hoping cylinders where not worn to bad, they were not but the combine piston and cylinder wear left lets bore the block. That lead to ok forged bottom end.
Don’t stop there, ARP studs, head , rods, Comectic head gasket their MLX better grade head gasket, new timing components Oe, new yota oil pump cover with pump, new valves and new valve springs.
The crank made standard with a polish and went back number 4 mains bearings, thrust OE and couldn’t find oe rod bearings. So clevite rod bearings. Time Machine work and parts for short block was done I pushed new Toyota short block cost.
Now some Custom machine work was done to my head and pistons was included in that price too. Maybe a 1000 bucks in my head machine work.
Ok, now got the engine together and why not, new crank balancer from Japan. Finally decided new valve cover and oil cooler too from Japan.
Just mocked up currently ….
To address the air box I went with 4 inch opening PISCO from Australia to upgrade that too. The brown on top is a protective coating and peels off. It’s clear looking through it.
