wayne out of curiosity what did you pay a tire.
or what were they regular.
or what were they regular.
Tires: Tall and Skinnys?
- Thread starter RiverRatMatt
- Start date
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crushers
post ho
$190 from texas
$247 in london Ontario
$290 in Calgary AB
plus taxes and enviro fees
$247 in london Ontario
$290 in Calgary AB
plus taxes and enviro fees
Thanks wayne.
I think those would be a bit excessive under the 77 for what I need.
Still like them though.
I think those would be a bit excessive under the 77 for what I need.
Still like them though.
There is a lot to be said for the right amount of skinny, so here is my two cents: I have driven an 85 Toy on 34 x 9.50 - 15 bias plies and loved it offroad. The ground pressure was perfect for everything the Pacific Northwest had to throw at it. The drawback was the street behavior. I would call the straight line emergency stop a maneuver only for the stuntman while the slalom put it in the ditch on the roof, so drive accordingly. I've also driven a 6x6 (brothers personal grocery getter) with the alternating bar military tread skinnies. The alternating bar does not have the traction that the look implies. I have been amazed how poorly it handles on and offroad. The military bar tread is a poor choice unless you have to have the look. Keep in mind that skinny for your vehicle means that you have a lot of sidewall for the given width. this will always translate to more lateral "play" while driving. I am a fan of the proper ground pressure for the intended use. I have seen too many jeeps with insufficient ground pressure (too wide of a tire) fail to get the bite on hard snow and packed dirt and wonder why the guy with the 'pizza cutters" is driving circles around them. Yeah they might be pizza cutter on an F350 but on a hilux or Taco they might be perfect.
crushers
post ho
here are those 900 16 SLA mounted up:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/70-series-tech/436341-troopie-build-6.html
scroll to the bottom...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/70-series-tech/436341-troopie-build-6.html
scroll to the bottom...
that truck looks GREAT!
While that's true, it's also complete Bull****.
It all boils down to which rims you're driving on. It seems a lot of Cruiserheads run 33x9.50R15 because they love the retro look of the stock rims, but those floppy sidewalls of the 15" rims translate into poor handling.
Try a 16" rim. Run 235/85R16s, 255/85R16s, 255/100R16s, whatever. The handling will be much better than those stupid skinny 15s and your sidewalls won't be flopping left and right with the weight of your truck.
And for those who can't pony up the $$$ for new rims, you can make them. I made my own 16x6.5" rims with 3.25" backspacing out of chevy steel rims. $20 a piece, not including labor.
crushers
post ho
yep, that huge 1/2" difference makes a difference... BS
the side wall stiffness does. 16s 15s makes no difference.
the side wall stiffness does. 16s 15s makes no difference.
I ran 255/85R16's on my BJ42 for a number of years. Then I inherited some 15" stock powder coated wheels. Bought some 33x15x9.5 BFG's. Right out of the gate I noticed how much more roll I felt on corners, and that the steering felt more vague. If that was because of going 16" to 15", or simply a lighter rated tire or a combination of both...not sure. But there sure is a difference. I would not dream of taking the 15" down to 22psi or so for gravel travel, where I routinely would on the 16's.
gb
gb
Tires are always a compromise, what would be good on dry payment, like a tire with little siping, would not be good in the snow or mud. Crusher's tracker tires are probably great off-road, but would be horrible on pavement. Just as tire designs are a compromise, you have to know how to drive for the tires you are running. I fully understand that 900x16 tires are tall and skinny and will not perform like a lower profile tire and I will drive accordingly.
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With 16s comes thicker tires, true, and on a lighter empty truck 16s won't be ideal. But there is a difference.
crushers
post ho
and that is my point, it isn't the 15 or 16 rim that is the issue, it is the sidewall availability that makes the 16" more attractive.
i have run 15s for decades and thought they were the cats ass, then i started running the 16s. once i felt how a stiffer sidewall is more stable i like the 16s tire choice selection. if the 15s (which were mostly a car tire size back in the day) had stiffer sidewalls then i would not care which.
the tractor tires are great at 90 k/h on the straight but you better be slowed right down on the corners, they are bloody scary when they flex at speed.
i have run 15s for decades and thought they were the cats ass, then i started running the 16s. once i felt how a stiffer sidewall is more stable i like the 16s tire choice selection. if the 15s (which were mostly a car tire size back in the day) had stiffer sidewalls then i would not care which.
the tractor tires are great at 90 k/h on the straight but you better be slowed right down on the corners, they are bloody scary when they flex at speed.
"alloy" rims are a misnomer. There is a multitude of alloys that is applicable for rims.
The forged rims are what you are looking for, not cast.
A steel rim will always hold up better than an AL rim will. But, some AL rims do better than others based on the Manu process.
The forged rims are what you are looking for, not cast.
A steel rim will always hold up better than an AL rim will. But, some AL rims do better than others based on the Manu process.
I can't speak for other tires, but our 255/85 R16 BFG KM2s behave very differently depending on the tire pressure. If you have skinnys that seem a little tippy, try some more air.
Once I figured how to dial this in with the KM2s, they've been great. This response to changes in handling according to psi makes them a really useful, versatile tool for dealing with a variety of conditions, roads, terrain, and trails.
Once I figured how to dial this in with the KM2s, they've been great. This response to changes in handling according to psi makes them a really useful, versatile tool for dealing with a variety of conditions, roads, terrain, and trails.
Then their is the design difference between a bias vs radial tire. Completely different design. If I could have found a tall (35"to 36") and skinny radial I would have opted for those. The STA Superlugs seem to be a heavy duty tire and have the tread design that I was looking for for decent road manners in the snow and rain. 8 ply, 4 in the tread and 4 in the sidewall. This also makes a difference on how a tire performs.
crushers
post ho
you have run the STA? as you know i just picked up a set but have yet to go for a drive with them.
Where did you order from? I am curious to see how they ride.
Interesting comments here guys.
I run both 255/85r16 and 33x10.5r15 in bfg m/t km, both sets are on 7" wide aftermarket steelies. I can honestly say I don't notice a difference in feel between them, maybe a slight gearing/power difference due to the 255 being a little bit taller, but I haven't had the 16's aired down below 20psi yet. I had a chance to do some decent roadtrips with them both last year on my BJ60 (Moab and Churn Cr on the 15's, northern BC and the Kootenay's on the 16's). Perhaps the 1" difference in tread and sectional width as well as 1" wider rim makes them handle better than the 33x9.5 on stock steelies worked for Greg.
I can say the 10.5 is significantly wider in its tread area than the 9.5 (I have an old m/t on a 15x7 whitespoke as my spare).
I have not run the STA's yet. I'll look for you Wayne to let us all know what you think of them on the troopy. I bought them based on some great reviews for their road manners and how they performed in the snow on several Power Wagon sites.