Tires are getting old... time to make some decisions (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter COS80
- Start date
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mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Stick within certain limits, you kind of can do the same.
Going to a tire that's 6-7" larger diameter and 2-2.5" wider than stock, and adding spacers is a big ask.
I put 305/70r16 (33"s) on my current cruiser while it had 100% stock suspension and stock size tires
The tire shop guy was adamant it wouldn't work. He was like "These tires are huge! No way they'll work". I had to pay in full before they'd fit them. After they were fitted, the guy was speechless.
I put all-terrain tires on a Ford station wagon that were 20mm wider and 1.5" taller than stock, and the rear needed a 1/4" spacer to even roll the car forward, the front needed all sorts of shenanigans to get enough clearance for full lock.
I believe this is why the 80 series tops Toyotas list of all time favorites. They put it together to operate superbly as is.
Here you go:
If I was to start all over again, I would...
Calling all veteran 80 series owners. If you were to start all over again fresh, how would you set your 80 up the 2nd time? What would you change? What costly mistakes have you made & want others to avoid? What I'm trying to do here is give a historical record of the "I've Been There, Don't...
forum.ih8mud.com
ChaseTruck
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Do the TC gears now. Both our 80/LX are S/C’d on stock axle gears, ~2”lift, 315 MT tires, and the lower-geared low range gears. I perceive those gears as a significant upgrade on the trails.
ChaseTruck
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Just the low range. Marlin in the LX, TG in the 80.
COS80
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #50
This is a great thread. Thanks for sharing.Here you go:
If I was to start all over again, I would...
Calling all veteran 80 series owners. If you were to start all over again fresh, how would you set your 80 up the 2nd time? What would you change? What costly mistakes have you made & want others to avoid? What I'm trying to do here is give a historical record of the "I've Been There, Don't...
ChaseTruck
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No preference, the Marlins came first, and then TG had a sale - so, mostly happenstance. Both installed by Tools R Us; somehow it seemed Kevin wanted to know whether there’d be a difference, and we haven’t found one. Of course, the 80, as a ‘93, is quite different than the LX, presumably mostly due to the bus transmission. But the increased control on the trail is very noticeable, and I really like it. In our gang of ‘wheelers, everyone made the switch to the lower TC low range gears.
@COS80 I had been doing exactly what you are contemplating. Building the rig to support 37’s in the future while on 35’s. I’ve installed 4.88 gears, upgraded steering linkage, 105 box, rcv’s, 3.5”vt’s and 4” rear springs, slee front arms and all the correction and dropping/raising required. At the end of the day, I like having the utility of my roof rack to mount awnings etc.., and would have to remove it to fit in my garage if I were to move to 37’s (like you). I’ve been all over Colorado and Utah on some decently challenging trails on this setup (chinamans gulch, trifecta in Moab etc..) I have zero complaints with the 35’s on those trails. My buddy ran 37’s on his old 80, but is keeping his new 80 build on 35’s. Not once did he get through something I couldn’t when running 37’s. Did it require more careful attention, sure. We drive longer distances to Utah, Arizona, New Mexico and Wyoming, and I’ve decided to stick with 35’s to keep the long distance travel manageable. I enjoy driving my 80 to the wheeling destination. Not saying this couldn’t be accomplished with the right supporting mods for 37’s, but this is my decision for my needs and to put my money into gas and experiences. I have owned and wheeled 3 80’s over 20 years (as well as 40’s and 60’s), and this is the best overall setup I’ve run so far for the type of travel we enjoy. I am planning on the low range tcase gears this summer. So I will echo what others have said on that. In my opinion, a 2.5-3” lift on 35’s with 4.88’s is a real sweet spot, unless you’re getting into some pretty technical wheeling (Pritchett, fordyce etc), and don’t want to have to pull the winch out all day. Why not go with 39’s then if that’s the intended purpose for the rig and you’re already having to tune and trim? 
Slee belly skid is a good idea too with lower lift and 35’s.
Slee belly skid is a good idea too with lower lift and 35’s.
One thing I do not see mentioned is spedo correction, like lutz unit. This will help with shift points and holding gear. This can be done with stock or aftermarket gears.
@Hitit66 has been a go to for bumpstop drop products. He can make them to your exact specs. Someone can correct me if I’m missing something, but generally speaking, measure the distance between bottom of bumps and axle pad, and subtract 1” from that measurement. Then measure the exposed length of your shock shaft. If the length of the shock shaft is longer than the bump stop to axle minus 1”, drop until it matches to protect the shock from over compressing. This is where your bump stops should be for optimal performance no matter the lift. If you get tire rub, drop more until it stops rubbing, or trim instead. You won’t have to trim with 35’s. Many people, including myself, have been happy with the timbren active bumstops if you’re looking to also upgrade the bump itself.
Keep the front stock bumps and get the @Hitit66 pucks to tune (this is what I did). Or you could get the hydraulic units you were talking about that go inside the coil, replacing the entire stock bumps. Either option will allow you to retain the swaybar disconnects. Timbrens in the back and figure out amount you’d need to drop or not drop them.
That’s a good idea, I’ve been pondering the same. You’ll have to share what you come up with
ChaseTruck
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Good point, and I have to admit I’ve been too lazy to implement that. With 315s/stock axle gearing, the actual speed is about 10% faster than the speedo indicates, and that works for me since I’m a numbers person. My wife, in the LX, well… I’m not sure she’d go any slower if the speedo were corrected.
In general, I see 80s on 37s in several configurations, and the trucks perform great. Now, except in real rocks, the 315s/stock axle gears/lower TC low range setup has worked well enough for me. I’m still on stock drive shafts with the 2” lift, the front caster bushings have been in there since forever, and I suppose I ought to do something about the bump stops to prevent the “external drum brake” effect of the fender wells. But: the trucks fit in the garage with this setup…
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