Tire Chains on Front, Back or Both?

[aaronsca]

The FJC owner's manual states, "Do not use tire chains on the front tires." What it doesn't say is why.

It just seems odd, as my FJC is MT with full time 4WD. I would think that both the front and the back should be chained. Wouldn't putting chains only on the back make it go ass over tea kettle as the back tires got traction, but the front just slipped? What's the danger of putting chains on the front?

Someone help me understand what Toyota's reasoning is, or did they just typo the owner's manual?

 

[FirstToy]

I think it is for tire clearance issues- with chains, it may potentially damage the suspension/trim/body/etc.

Here is a thread in 100 tech that may lead to some additional info
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=116713

also, try a search in the Outfitting section. This may lead to more results.
Good luck, keep us updated on what you find!

 

[GXO]

If you run chains on an AWD vehicle it is a good idea to chain all 4.

I have never really heard of a case for only chaining 2 of 4 in any situation as I think about it...

 

[aaronsca]

I think I found the answer. The short version is that the front body mount and the front IFS limit the FJC. I personally don't care too much about a little bit of rubbing on wheel well, but the control arm that receives the upper ball joint is _very_ close to the wheels. It's about two finger widths, or 1.5 inches of clearance between the tire rubber and the edge of the arm (see attached picture). And yes, I run the bone stock Duelers. It may be possible to put chains on the front, but there appears to be a very real risk of damaging the suspension.

 

[trucruiser]

Should work

I seen Bill burk put some on an FJ cruiser and he ran em most of the day, these are different than just regular chains though. You probably need some like these.
This was a Toyota Sponsored photo shoot. so it should be ok.

 

[aaronsca]

I'm thoroughly confused now.

 

[Go4aRyd]

I wonder if he used spacers behind those TRD rims? I have the same rims with the 265 BFG AT/KOs and there looks to be only about -1/4" (yes - I measured).

 

[mister bean]

Stability. My understanding is that with front only there is a risk of the rear end swinging around. Makes sense to me that if you've got plenty of grip up front, and none in the rear you'll have problems keeping it straight. Especially if you're braking or turning while going down hill.

 

[FirstToy]

Stability. My understanding is that with front only there is a risk of the rear end swinging around. Makes sense to me that if you've got plenty of grip up front, and none in the rear you'll have problems keeping it straight. Especially if you're braking or turning while going down hill.

That is the opposite of what I thought. I figure you want the front tires to have the traction so that you can steer and control the vehicle.
When buying 2 tires, for example, policy at most tire places is that they will only put them on the front.

The only thing I can think of why Toyota would not recommend front chains is potential damage due to close tolerances.

But it is confusing! I don't know what to think about it except to follow recommendations and drive carefully.

These are the chains Bill Burke uses (pictured above) from his site
http://www.bb4wa.com/articles/Chains.htm

 

[Off Road Costa Rica]

I seen Bill burk put some on an FJ cruiser and he ran em most of the day, these are different than just regular chains though. You probably need some like these.
This was a Toyota Sponsored photo shoot. so it should be ok.

are those Michellin Tyre chains? if so, thats what we use on our Fjs, on all 4 wheels. We tear the chains up, we really do abuse our cars, but while they are in one piece they do the job right, specially good for mud. We dont get much snow in Costa Rica, then again all our rigs are mid 70s and early 80s.

 

[firetruck41]

Stability. My understanding is that with front only there is a risk of the rear end swinging around. Makes sense to me that if you've got plenty of grip up front, and none in the rear you'll have problems keeping it straight. Especially if you're braking or turning while going down hill.

That is the opposite of what I thought. I figure you want the front tires to have the traction so that you can steer and control the vehicle.
When buying 2 tires, for example, policy at most tire places is that they will only put them on the front.

The only thing I can think of why Toyota would not recommend front chains is potential damage due to close tolerances.

But it is confusing! I don't know what to think about it except to follow recommendations and drive carefully.

These are the chains Bill Burke uses (pictured above) from his site
http://www.bb4wa.com/articles/Chains.htm

I think mister bean is right, IIRC it says the same thing for the 80 series (FT4WD). I have experienced this when I chained up the front, around a corner the rear was very easy to slide, and I ended up doing a 180, I probably coul have powered through and applied power to the front chained wheels to pull it straight, but my wife who was sitting shotgun would have freaked out. Having the rear chained is slightly less dangerous.

Either way 2 wheels chained is not optimal, with the rear chained you are likely to go straight when you want to turn, and with the front chained, you are likely to spin the rear around when you want to turn. Best would be all 4 wheels chained, it looks like clearance will be fine for chains in the front, and if Bill Burke did it all day, that should give a little more confidence.

 

[sos10]

My mountain friends always told me that the only tires that really need chains are the ones that are "driving" the car, but that 4 chains are necessary only in very few extreme situations..
So for the FJ; rear-wheel-drive = rear wheels only; 4wd= rear or front tires and if you want also the other ones, but since its easier to damage parts, I would only use them on the rear tires.

 

[spressomon]

Get the RUD chains from Bill Burke and run them on all 4-corners. You'll be fine...you actually have more clearance between the upper A-arm and tire than I did on my 100 with 285 MT/R's and the RUD compact chains fit fine.

4-wheels worth is best...anything else is a safety/traction compromise. If you just want something to satisfy chain control and/or emergency/occasional highway use get Spyder Spikes: I have used these on our passenger cars with great results...but IMO they are not off-road worthy.

 

[gaylonw]

Wheel positions with no traction want to lead

In the safety films that I had seen about winter driving, the experts say that wheel positions that break traction want to lead.
That is why a trailer comes around in a jack knife accident. The same is true of non articulated units where there is no trailer.
I would say that all four positions should be chained, if you were trying to maximize your traction and minimize skids; but if you were only doing one set of wheel positions the rears would be the choice........gm

 

[High Desert]

My mountain friends always told me that the only tires that really need chains are the ones that are "driving" the car, but that 4 chains are necessary only in very few extreme situations..
So for the FJ; rear-wheel-drive = rear wheels only; 4wd= rear or front tires and if you want also the other ones, but since its easier to damage parts, I would only use them on the rear tires.

I'm with your Mt friends, Extreme traction needs call for extreme chaining. Just going "over the mountain", unless they make you, "chains required for any/all vehicles" You'll probably never need chains on your FJ.

Lots of people go to the front tires cause it's easier to get the chains on. I think that's nuts, unless, your going about 5mph, A rear drive rig even a 4X4, needs the chains on the rear... some good reasoning in the above post. In slow mud situations, on rigs that have clearance for chains on the front, the chains on the front help pull you over logs and keep you in the ruts. You also, as noted, have the issue of jamming up the works with a chain part hitting suspension and brake parts if you rig is modern and like, says in the manual, "don't put chains on the front".

Chaining up is a PITA, so unless in the complete wilds, why put them on four wheels? Your only gonna be able to go about 45 miles an hour anyway. Now if your a wild ass and think your gonna chain up just so you can pass all the cars and big rigs rather than just stay orderly and in the flow...I hope to see ya in the ditch...

 

[sos10]

Now if your a wild ass and think your gonna chain up just so you can pass all the cars and big rigs rather than just stay orderly and in the flow...I hope to see ya in the ditch...

My friends from the italian Alps have a game; counting the Big Boy Cayenne owners from Milano who think they can drive fast because they have a 4x4 and wintertires and end up in ditches or walls of snow...

 

[FirstToy]

This is quoted from Bill Burke's site


Chains can also be used for worn or non-aggressive tread tires when the trail turns to mud or loose rock. They can make your rig into a little tractor! If you can only afford one set, and you're going to be in 4WD on a trail, I recommend putting them on the front axle since you have steering, braking, and traction. However, be careful on long descents since you're getting such good traction with the front end, and the rear is not chained, it may swing around on you. So it might be better for those descents to chain up the rear. That's why I like RUD chains because they are so easy to move around.

Other suggestions for using chains include:

1. Use caution with spinning the tires, as the chains may catch on unseen stumps, rocks, and roots, and you could brake an axle or a hub.
2. Check the trail ahead in deep snow for hidden obstacles.

3. Inspect chains before and after each outing. Look for worn links and stretched connectors.

4. Spray chains with some WD40 after each use. Make sure the chains don't rust. Don't leave them in a pile!

5. Be careful when steering with the front end articulated. Keep the chains from contacting vehicle components.

6. Remember, chains will allow you to dig to the trail through deep snow and ice. Watch for high-centering in those conditions. Sometimes, through very deep, hard-packed snow, I have used soft, high flotation tires to go across the top of deep drifts in lieu of chains. Then I've aired up to put the chains back on.

7. Do not use bare hands on cold, icy chains. Use heavy-duty neoprene/rubber gloves or good leather work gloves to put chains on.

8. Drive very slow and deliberate with chains on to gain proper traction and control on the icy trail.

9. Occasionally, I'll use higher RPM's in lower gears to keep the chains "churning." This breaks the ice in hard-pack snow so the vehicle can gain traction on the trail.

 

[sos10]

This is quoted from Bill Burke's site


Chains can also be used for worn or non-aggressive tread tires when the trail turns to mud or loose rock. They can make your rig into a little tractor! If you can only afford one set, and you're going to be in 4WD on a trail, I recommend putting them on the front axle since you have steering, braking, and traction. However, be careful on long descents since you're getting such good traction with the front end, and the rear is not chained, it may swing around on you. So it might be better for those descents to chain up the rear. That's why I like RUD chains because they are so easy to move around.

So since descending on an icy or snowy road is much more difficult / dangerous than climbing, especially with a heavy vehicle.. the rear is the best solution.

 

[FirstToy]

sos10,
I honestly don't know. The FJC manual seems to state that no chains up front- so rear maybe the only option.
It is a very educational topic tho, I hope it's not caused more confusion tho! hehe

 

[inthewall]

In snow that is deep and fresh, you need chains in the front. The front tires are breaking trail. Wet snow tends to ice up after traveled on. I would rather have chains in front for offroad circumstances.