tips on removing 2h intake manifold?

[calen]

HI, looked around the best I could, and read through the FSM. and the FSM is the whole procedure for dissasembling the engine completely. Im hoping theres someone that can outline the minimum amount of parts removal to get the manifold off to clean and replace gaskets. shes weeping oil, and I want to sealer up good, but i dont want to remove more then I need to

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Careful with the bolts that pass through holding the manifolds together.

 

[duncanrm]

Assuming you're referring to the Intake Manifold.

• All injector lines off
• Air intake hose off
• Two vacuum differential hoses from Throttle Body to Injector pump off
• Fuel Filter feed line off (get new copper crushwashers when you reinstall, one each side of the two banjos)
• Fuel Filter output line off (new crushwashers on reinstall. one each side of both banjos (top and bottom))
• Glow wiring needs to be detached - take photos of colours and attachment points, there'll be two thick cable
• Disconnect throttle cable

I think you'd be free to remove the intake manifold then.. be sure that all the injector line clamps are put back on and take yourself a detailed set of photos beforehand. You should use a flare nut 17mm spanner when removing/replacing injector lines, both ends of the lines will have to come off and the injector lines set aside.

Also if you have an really oily manifold internally (they all are later in life) you should take the time to drain the governor housing of accumulated blowby oil, scroll down to "Governor Housing Drain Plug" at my Toyota Diesel site for a photo.. Toyota Diesel Documentation - https://sites.google.com/view/toyotadiesel/home

 

[calen]

Assuming you're referring to the Intake Manifold.

• All injector lines off
• Air intake hose off
• Two vacuum differential hoses from Throttle Body to Injector pump off
• Fuel Filter feed line off (get new copper crushwashers when you reinstall, one each side of the two banjos)
• Fuel Filter output line off (new crushwashers on reinstall. one each side of both banjos (top and bottom))
• Glow wiring needs to be detached - take photos of colours and attachment points, there'll be two thick cable
• Disconnect throttle cable

I think you'd be free to remove the intake manifold then.. be sure that all the injector line clamps are put back on and take yourself a detailed set of photos beforehand. You should use a flare nut 17mm spanner when removing/replacing injector lines, both ends of the lines will have to come off and the injector lines set aside.

Also if you have an really oily manifold internally (they all are later in life) you should take the time to drain the governor housing of accumulated blowby oil, scroll down to "Governor Housing Drain Plug" at my Toyota Diesel site for a photo.. Toyota Diesel Documentation - https://sites.google.com/view/toyotadiesel/home

Thanks so much for writing that out. I assumed somewhere it must have already been described. Thanks a ton. I watched a video of a guy do the gaskets on a 1HZ and it looked like a chill 30 minute job. hahaha, this seems like Saturday morning affair Ill get to it on the next free Saturday with some sun

 

[3_puppies]

Careful with the bolts that pass through holding the manifolds together.

2H is different than a 2F
2H intake is on passenger side of the engine and the exhaust is on the driver side

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

2H is different than a 2F
2H intake is on passenger side of the engine and the exhaust is on the driver side

Yeah, I thought the title originally said it was a 2F manny combo.

 

[calen]

Yeah, I thought the title originally said it was a 2F manny combo.

Nah, 2h. not sure what a manny combo is but never mentioned it Yes intake on the 2h is on the right side of the car (driverside on this RHD bad boy).

 

[45Dougal]

Assuming you're referring to the Intake Manifold.

• All injector lines off
• Air intake hose off
• Two vacuum differential hoses from Throttle Body to Injector pump off
• Fuel Filter feed line off (get new copper crushwashers when you reinstall, one each side of the two banjos)
• Fuel Filter output line off (new crushwashers on reinstall. one each side of both banjos (top and bottom))
• Glow wiring needs to be detached - take photos of colours and attachment points, there'll be two thick cable
• Disconnect throttle cable

I think you'd be free to remove the intake manifold then.. be sure that all the injector line clamps are put back on and take yourself a detailed set of photos beforehand. You should use a flare nut 17mm spanner when removing/replacing injector lines, both ends of the lines will have to come off and the injector lines set aside.

Also if you have an really oily manifold internally (they all are later in life) you should take the time to drain the governor housing of accumulated blowby oil, scroll down to "Governor Housing Drain Plug" at my Toyota Diesel site for a photo.. Toyota Diesel Documentation - https://sites.google.com/view/toyotadiesel/home

That's an awesome link that is straight into my bookmarks, thank you!
Diesel and RHD are two things that don't come up much in here.

 

[calen]

Assuming you're referring to the Intake Manifold.

• All injector lines off
• Air intake hose off
• Two vacuum differential hoses from Throttle Body to Injector pump off
• Fuel Filter feed line off (get new copper crushwashers when you reinstall, one each side of the two banjos)
• Fuel Filter output line off (new crushwashers on reinstall. one each side of both banjos (top and bottom))
• Glow wiring needs to be detached - take photos of colours and attachment points, there'll be two thick cable
• Disconnect throttle cable

I think you'd be free to remove the intake manifold then.. be sure that all the injector line clamps are put back on and take yourself a detailed set of photos beforehand. You should use a flare nut 17mm spanner when removing/replacing injector lines, both ends of the lines will have to come off and the injector lines set aside.

Also if you have an really oily manifold internally (they all are later in life) you should take the time to drain the governor housing of accumulated blowby oil, scroll down to "Governor Housing Drain Plug" at my Toyota Diesel site for a photo.. Toyota Diesel Documentation - https://sites.google.com/view/toyotadiesel/home

ooo, one other thing. whats the order to torque the nuts on reinstall? I fee like there is usually a proper order to tightening nuts in a scenario like this but cant find it for the 2h.

 

[calen]

Assuming you're referring to the Intake Manifold.

• All injector lines off
• Air intake hose off
• Two vacuum differential hoses from Throttle Body to Injector pump off
• Fuel Filter feed line off (get new copper crushwashers when you reinstall, one each side of the two banjos)
• Fuel Filter output line off (new crushwashers on reinstall. one each side of both banjos (top and bottom))
• Glow wiring needs to be detached - take photos of colours and attachment points, there'll be two thick cable
• Disconnect throttle cable

I think you'd be free to remove the intake manifold then.. be sure that all the injector line clamps are put back on and take yourself a detailed set of photos beforehand. You should use a flare nut 17mm spanner when removing/replacing injector lines, both ends of the lines will have to come off and the injector lines set aside.

Also if you have an really oily manifold internally (they all are later in life) you should take the time to drain the governor housing of accumulated blowby oil, scroll down to "Governor Housing Drain Plug" at my Toyota Diesel site for a photo.. Toyota Diesel Documentation - https://sites.google.com/view/toyotadiesel/home

ok, so finally got around to doing this this weekend, cause they got bad enough that the oil would drip on the ground. I have two issues now. Pretty sure it wasnt the gaskets that was causing the oil drip. cause there all sealed up now and dry, and it still drips off the back of the engine form somewhere I cant see.

What is up near the starter that could be leaking oil?

next thing: so I took everything off like @duncanrm has listed. I did find that i didn't need to take off all the fuel filter hoses. I just took the filter housing/mount(?) off the manifold. when I was removing the injector lines from the pump. I didnt have a socket on the lower nut as I figured the lock plates were clamped tight. not so. and eventually noticed that some had turned while cracking them. not a lot, but some. after reassembly, they leaked like crazy but from the lines.

so i tightened them all up till they weren't leaking. went for a drive thinking it was a ll sewed up till a few blocks away the car was wobbling at the stop light while idling. the pump was leaking a ton from the lower part not sure what it s called, but directly at the pump. assuming because they got turned a little. so i tightened them back a tiny bit but started thinking that since there are lock plates on these, maybe I shouldn't be tinkering with them till I ask someone that knows better. I looked in the engine manual but couldn't really surmise how delicate those parts need to be tuned?

any thoughts on either problem?

 

[duncanrm]

Thorough degrease and pressure washer then a quick drive.. the source should be obvious.. consider oil pressure sender, oil pressure switch, oil filter housing and rocker cover gasket.

 

[charliemeyer007]

You could do the oil dye with a UV light if its too hard to get clean. If it doesn't show up then its likely fuel.

 

[sodafeld1]

hard to tell from pic but oil leak from rear could be rear main oil seal especially if over 350k kms on the clock. and or as per duncan's words.

assuming diesel is the second leak and the lock plates on top of the pump are meant to stop the fuel lines vibrating loose. the fuel lines have olives on both ends and are marred quite easily if over tightened. if marred they continue to leak no matter how much they are tightened, causing further damage. Diesel mechanics is a slightly dark art and takes a certain approach with fuel lines. Neat, patient, precise, methodical and clean. Injector nozzles have exceptionally fine tolerances. Amazingly so. Bit of zen meditation may help. the lock plates maybe loosened , each olive ideally is inspected. I wrote something yonks back upon fuel lines on here, cleaning them up, valuing them.

Generally if they leak it is best to loosen it, inspect both surfaces, if good re tighten but not too much, they just need a nip . they are a good design if approached with reverence. if you have a scar on the olive i'll try to dig up the post on the olive ends.. re bleed the fuel lines of course afterwards. All the fuel line clamps are important to minimise vibration, all of them.

Once your lines are good and set with fresh injectors you can forget about it for 100k kms.

 

[3_puppies]

oil pressure sender is near the starter
oil filter housing and relief?
what vintage 2H, the oil feed for the injection pump on the older 2H is tucked away behind the injection pump

 

[calen]

ok, i got to get a little mirror on a stick or something cause i cant see nothing in there. definitely not fuel as its not near the pump, and I got it to stop leaking this morning thanks @duncanrm as I looked through your pump info and it explained exactly what i needed and i dont think its from the oil line behind the pump as that area is not oily. just spraying or dripin on the side of the starter. ill get in there with the little mirror and de grease again and search. I would be heart broken if it was the main seal as the tranny was just out a week ago getting a new t-case. so that would really suck. not possible they damaged it when pulling the tranny? wasn't dripping on the ground before that really.

anyways ,glad I got the pump sealed up. and glad the new gaskets apear to be good and sealed. now this drip!!!

 

[charliemeyer007]

I just bought an inspection bore scope for android off Amoron for $30 that has a 16' lead. Very easy to use - takes pic's or vid's has magnification 90* reflector.

 

[calen]

oh also wanted to mention in the fuel pump realm, my fuel screw was wheeled like all most all the way out and is not at all tight. did no longer have a retenion wire on it. where does one get a new little wire? whats it called. as there is nothing to keep my screw from backing out again under vibration.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Maybe INJECTION PUMP BODY / toyota | part list｜JP-CarParts.com - https://jp-carparts.com/toyota/partlist.php?maker=toyota&type=811120&cartype=30&fig=2203

 

[calen]

nothin in there that i could see, but did some more lookin around and believe its just safety lock wire. ill find some

 

[calen]

ooookaaay! well, i feel stupid but glad yall chimed in. so it was the oil sender. mechanical, and the copper line wasnt tight enough or got loose. thing is I installed a sedimenter in the engine bay and it perfectly obscures the view of the port. totally forgot it was there. went for a couple drives and no drips! kinda glad it wasnt the gaskets , casue if i found it first i wouldnt have done the gaskets for another 2 years lol