Tim's Lame-Ass Build Thread

[MissouriLC]

Following along - nice build thread. I may steal your tailgate storage approach! Very clean and practical and I, too, would like to retain carpet if possible.

Removing the grille helps immensely with getting those bolts torqued to spec! Allows you to come in from the backside relatively unimpeded.

Yes, I've definitely stolen the tailgate storage from a number of other members here!

Good tip about the bumper install, as well. I have not yet installed the upper pinning bolts. Removing the grille should be very helpful when doing so.

 

[Slimm]

Following as well- nice build! Like the indy boots too

 

[MongooseGA]

That tail gate storage looks great. I've been wanting the same but the kits being sold for it are, IMO, not worth their price for what they are. Looks like a little bit of carpentry saved you like $600!

 

[MissouriLC]

That tail gate storage looks great. I've been wanting the same but the kits being sold for it are, IMO, not worth their price for what they are. Looks like a little bit of carpentry saved you like $600!

Yep! In no way would I want to disparage the vendors selling these kits and, having built this, I completely see the challenge of adapting this to mass production. I understand where the cost comes from. But $600 to $800 was more that I was willing to spend on this mod.

Even with the various iterations I built, I think my cost breakdown was as follows:

• 1/2" Baltic birch plywood, 5X5: $33
• Aluminum bar stock: $20
• Flush-mount hinges, SS: $8
• Flush-mount compression latches, SS: $70
• Peel'n'Seal: $17
• Installation Hardware: $15
• Carpet: $20

TOTAL: $183

I could have gotten by much cheaper if not for the stainless steel boat latches, but they are my favorite part of the whole thing!

 

[MissouriLC]

Following as well- nice build! Like the indy boots too

Thanks! I love the Indy boots. I've had them for 3 years now. Best, most comfortable pair of shoes I've ever owned! Totally worth the money!

 

[MissouriLC]

Roof Rack:
Back in November, I posted a thread inquiring about folks' experience with roof racks. I basically have analysis paralysis, having not found anything that 100% meets my desires. My shortlist of wants/needs includes:

• Low-profile, to fit in my garage and the occasional public parking garage (overall height needs to remain under 6'8", or only slightly higher than the factory load bars.)
• Flat top for hauling plywood, furniture, etc. (because this is how I am going to be using it more often than not).
• Maximum flexibility in tying stuff down; I need to be able to use ropes, bungees, ratchet straps, cargo nets, etc.
• Maximum flexibility for attaching lights, accessories, and wiring.
• Ability to mount a Yakima or Thule cargo box without additional rails/fittings.
• Needs a front wind deflector, and the ability to mount a front-facing light bar BELOW the load floor is a plus.

There's basically three commercial options that I am considering:

1. Gamiviti Expo (or Trail Tailor, of similar design)
2. Bowfin Cruisers (I love the overall look and 80/20 extrusion design and wind deflector, but I have serious reservations about how the rack mounts to the roof using spacers in the roof channel--an issue with all Prinsu-style racks)
3. Dissent (my second favorite look--second to Bowfin--and it seems like the most thoughtful, well-engineered option. It is also the most expensive and seems not to be as flexible in terms of tie-down options. If I was buying a roof top tent, this would probably be my platform of choice.)

I also started kicking around the idea of building my own, using Gamiviti towers and building a platform out t-slot extrusions. I struggled with how to design the corners, how to integrate a wind deflector, and other details. After a lot of design and redesign in AutoCAD, I've come up with a design that I think is at least viable.

This design is 80" X 52" inches, using 1X2 10-series extrusions. There are 7 load bars (50" wide) with another 1X2 to mount the deflector. The side rails are also 1X2, positioned vertically. This should give a lot of extra resistance to deflection--per the calculator, the side rails should deflect only about .004" with a 600 lb load. The Gamiviti towers will mount directly to the 2nd, 5th, and 7th bars, as counted from the front.

I abandoned trying to make a radiused or chamfered corner on the back of the rack in favor of some plates and bolts to finish off the corner. The deflector mount uses some standard 10-series joining plates to mount an extrusion at 45-deg. The plan would be to cut the deflector from a piece of 3/8" black ABS plastic. With some templating and trial and error, I should be able to revise the shape of the deflector to match the curve of the roof above the windshield, like the Prinsu/Bowfin design.

Being t-slot all around, this should be a perfect base on which to mount camping lights, mounts, an awning, a roller on the back (Rhino Rack has a roller that should work perfectly), and other accessories as needed. There is also an "extra" slot on the lower inside of the side rails to conceal a wire. I also like the fact that I could rig up some removable basket sides if I want, or install some airline L-track on some of the cross rails for quick-release tie downs, etc.

I've priced this out and, with the Gamiviti feet, the rack as illustrated should be less than $700.

I am not totally sold on this idea yet--it is not the sleekest or most beautiful design, but I think it looks decent, should be plenty strong, and should be very adaptable.

 

[krice118]

Nice build I am from St. Louis. My cousin recently bought a Black LX and still lives there in STL.

I have to say - this is no Lame-A$$ thread. You have some skill!

 

[MissouriLC]

Nice build I am from St. Louis. My cousin recently bought a Black LX and still lives there in STL.

I have to say - this is no Lame-A$$ thread. You have some skill!

Thanks!

"Lame-ass" is a bit tongue-in-cheek because I work really slow and my rig won't be kitted out like many of the rigs on here. I appreciate the comment!

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Excellent thread and great workmanship. It is smart to just modify/upgrade want you need!

 

[MissouriLC]

Made some progress on my upfitter module/switch panel this weekend. I started by pulling roof console piece to modify the garage door opener compartment for the switches...

I bought three (3) Contura switches, a six switch panel, and three (3) panel blanks from OTRATTW. I only have three sets of lights planned for the near future (starting with the bumper lights), but I am wiring up six (6) curcuits so that I can easily add other accessories later.

I started by marking out the profile of the six switch panel on the garage door opener piece...

And cutting it out with a sharp utility knife.

 

[MissouriLC]

The switch frame is fit.

Because I want to get my wiring in place for all six switches, but I'm only installing three of the switches right now, I decided to try out the VCF plugs utilizing the Packard 630 terminals that OTRATTW sells. I was initially concerned about the ability to crimp two sets of wires to the terminals. But, using the 14-16 ga. terminals, I was able to crimp a pair of 16 ga. wires to each terminal.

The plug bodies installed. I think these are going to work out well. I was initially concerned that they would require extra mounting depth, but they are no taller than a female disconnect would be. Additionally, now I don't have to worry about a pile of loose disconnects up there--just six plugs.

 

[MissouriLC]

Switches and blanks installed.

The other piece I have been working on is the wiring harness and relay/fuse box:

I bought a six (6) fuse/relay, waterproof box from Amazon that I've been wiring up. As shown above, the smooth bundle of wire in the upper left is 7-conductor, 18-gauge tray cable. This will be run through the firewall to connect to the individual switches. To the upper right, I've got a bundle of 14-gauge grounds for each of the relays. To the lower left is the power bundle--six individual 14-gauge wire connected to a fused distribution block. The relay/fuse block will be located on the PS side of the engine bay, and the fused distribution block will be located next to the battery, connected to the battery with an 8-gauge wire. Finally, the rainbow bundle at the bottom right is the power output for the lights/accessories. My plan is to put a Deutsch DT connector on each power output, so I that I can just plug into the harness as I want to add accessories.

Here's the switch harness. The green wires are the common power for the switch. This will be tapped into the green wire that connects the two map light/dome lights. The yellow is the independent power, which will be connected to the dimmer circuit at the dash light dimmer below the instrument cluster. Finally, the black is simply the common ground for the switches.

 

[MissouriLC]

Time to pull wire! I finally have the wiring harness complete and ready to install. I've decided that I will utilize this nipple on the passenger side firewall boot to run my 7-conductor tray cable connecting my relay box to my switch panel.

Disassembly of the interior to route the wire. I pulled the glovebox, kick panel, door sill, passenger door weatherstripping, grab handles, A-piller trim, both sun visors, and all sun visor mounting hardware. I only broke one clip in the process!

Here's the bundle of everything, waiting to be installed.

The tray cable was a snug fit through the existing nipple. I tried to also pull three pairs of power-ground wire through this hole for future use, but it was too small. I don't need those wires installed right now... I won't be able to utilize them until I get/build my roof rack. So, we'll put a pin in that until the time comes.

On the left, you can see the simple aluminum bracket I made to mount the fuse/relay box to the fender. It uses two existing, unused bolt holes.

After the tray cable was pulled, I slipped a piece of heavy-duty, adhesive-lined heat-shrink tubing over the junction to seal the cabin from the engine bay.

 

[MissouriLC]

Here's the cable, on the cabin side. I ran this up through the A-pillar next to the sunroof drain, and across the headliner in the space immediately aft of the sun visors. I wrapped it in felt tape and securely zip-tied it along the way.

Back in the engine bay, I fabbed a bracket to mount the other fuse block near the battery. I used some 1/8-inch aluminum bar stock that I heated with a MAP torch and bent with vise.

It is mounted using one of the bolts that holds the main fuse box to the inner fender, and sits snugly up against the side of the fuse box.

 

[MissouriLC]

Coming out of the new fuse box is a 10-foot run of power wires. These are the wire that feed battery power to each of the six relays. I have six, 14-gauge bundled, wrapped in electrical tape, wrapped in plastic wire loom, and wrapped in electrical tape again.

This bundle is routed next to the factory harness that runs over the top of the fan shroud.

Each of the six wires has a ring terminal at the end.

These are connected to a fused distribution block, which it connected to the battery with a 12-inch run of 8-gauge wire.

I am considering adding an inline, AGM fuse to the 8-gauge connector. Probably overkill, but it would make me feel better.

 

[MissouriLC]

For the output of the relays, I made power pigtails that are grounded to the factory ground point below the diagnostic port, and installed Deutsch DT connectors on each. Now, I have a place to simply plug-in up to five additional accessories, without having to open up the relay box wiring. These are tucked out the way between the airbox and the inner fender.

The six relays and fuses in the new relay box.

I think that all the wiring looks pretty close to factory spec. To the untrained eye, I not sure you could tell the difference between what it factory and what I added. Also, the two systems are completely separate, so the new wiring can be removed with no irreversible modifications to the factory harness. Overall, I am very pleased with how this turned out. The planning and pre-assembly of the harness--while time-consuming--was invaluable.

(Pardon the dirt!)

 

[MissouriLC]

Here's the switch panel installed. One issue I ran into in this. For the switched power (what lights up the indicator showing the switch is engaged), I tapped into the green wire that runs between the two map lights. No problem. I grounded the switches to a screw that holder the panel clip holder to the roof. Also no problem. For the independent light power ("Driving Lights" illumination, etc.), I ran a wire back down the B-pillar, across the dash, and tapped into the harness out of the dimmer rheostat below the gauge cluster. The intent is to make those independent lights dim-able with the rest of the dash lights.

Here's my issue; I tapped into the Green/White wire coming out of the rheostat. I thought that this was the dimmed power. However, my switches dim in REVERSE! As in, when the dimmer is all the way down, they are fully lit, and vice-versa.

That tells me that the Green/White wire must by the shunt wire for the rheostat? Do I need to tap into the solid Green wire? Any advice here would be most helpful!

 

[MissouriLC]

For the lights, I decided to try the Hella ValueFit 500 LEDs. They were $155 for the pair, shipped from Summit Racing. I like the round light look and, while I wish they were a bit larger, I am pretty happy with them.

They are made in China, but the quality and fit and finish seems good--with one exception. The supplied mounting hardware is absolute crap. If you buy these lights, don't even attempt to use it. I replaced it all with stainless hardware from Home Depot, which was a vast improvement.

I need to get a nighttime shot, but the light output is pretty good. I'm sure its not equal to higher-priced light, but it definately seems good for what it is.

 

[MissouriLC]

'Rona Stay-at-Home Project - Roof Rack!

Given the fact that we are all working/schooling from home, and buying basically no gas, I decided to parlay some of those savings into my new roof rack. After a lot of deliberation, I decided to move forward with a DIY T-slot rack, using Tim's (@nakman's) excellent mounting towers. The reasoning for the DIY solution was:

• Cost
• Absolute customizability
• Modular, with the ability to mount up virtually anything using t-nuts
• Aluminum, so no rust
• Light weight

I started by pulling off the factory rack, which was surprisingly easy. I was fearing rusted bolts, but everything was quite clean for a Colorado/Missouri truck. Getting the filler/trim strips out of the roof channels was a pain, but I didn't break anything. I spent about two weeks repairing a little surface rust on the roof (there was a dent from something being dropped on the roof right next to the DS roof channel, which cracked and popped up the paint on the edge) using POR-15 and color-matched paint. While working through that, I fine-tuned my design and quantities, ordered the towers from Gamiviti, a pile of extrusions from Tnutz, and a box of stainless hardware from McMaster-Carr.

Starting assembly...

Mounted the towers up to the roof channels...

I set the front towers at the 2nd-to-highest position, the middle towers to the lowest position, and the rear towers to the 2nd to lowest position (one position lower than the front. Using the side rail, I checked for height and level. All looks good.

Next, I mounted three (3) of the cross bars loosely to the towers. I am using the 1X3 10-series extrusions for the cross bars, so I mounted the towers to the center t-slot of each cross bar with two 1/4-20 bolts and fender washers.

 

[MissouriLC]

Got everything snugged-up and added the side rails. Then I added the remaining three (3) cross bars.

There's a total of six (6) 1X3 cross bars, plus a 1X1 end bar at the front, and a 1X2 end bar at the rear. The platform is completely flat across the top and rock-solid.

I drove around with it a bit for two days with no front wind deflector, and the wind noise at 50mph and above was deafening! Time to start fabricating a wind deflector!