32cls6speedmt
SILVER Star
which brand of mobile one, are you using?
Timing Chain Tensioner Noise
- Thread starter arnott1t
- Start date
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bloc
SILVER Star
One concrete difference is the timing chains vs belt, and that system sure seems to run quieter on the 5w-30.
Plus when I looked at the specs of 0w-30 a few years ago they were typically barely a 30wt when warm.
Seems like I read somewhere that in every other market, Toyota recommends 5w-30 and that the only reason for 0w-20 in the US was something about emotions or MPG? Did I imagine that?
bloc
SILVER Star
Not "every" market but yes the general statement is correct.
That said, there are a whole lot of 3UR-FE Tundras out there happily cruising around for collectively a bajillion miles on 0w-20 just fine. Lubrication related issues are very rare. I personally feel 0w-20 is fine to use long term, but the 5w-30 quieting the top end down just seems like it works "better".. whatever that means.
Yes that was me.
Update: 5W-30 & Heavier Recommended RoTW
Update: confirmed that the 3UR is recommended to run a whole suite of heavier oils. Screenshots from UAE 200 5.7L manual below. More proof that environmental regulatory agencies have handcuffed Toyota in the states. I spent the better part of yesterday’s afternoon researching oil viscosities...
forum.ih8mud.com
arnott1t
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #27
I should say. All work was done at Lexus dealer. When bearing failed was coasting down the highway under almost no load. Had changed oil 500km before with fresh 5w30 mobil 1. We stopped the engine and had it towed to dealer.
I figured it would be timing something. It wasn’t
they pulled vavle
Covers and looked at timing. All marks were good and chains tight. We pulled filter. It was very full of sparkles. Pulled oil pans. Same thing. Metal flakes, chunks and sparkles.
peered into bottom end. Could see #7 con rod very
Loose on crank….. pretty sad after putting 4K into timing stuff.
engine has 230k km in it. Not abused since I’ve owned st 130k km.
totally bummed out. Now what?
engines are about 5k here to buy. That’s a tundra engine as no 570 units around. Truck is work 25k running. Almost nothing now….
I figured it would be timing something. It wasn’t
they pulled vavle
Covers and looked at timing. All marks were good and chains tight. We pulled filter. It was very full of sparkles. Pulled oil pans. Same thing. Metal flakes, chunks and sparkles.
peered into bottom end. Could see #7 con rod very
Loose on crank….. pretty sad after putting 4K into timing stuff.
engine has 230k km in it. Not abused since I’ve owned st 130k km.
totally bummed out. Now what?
engines are about 5k here to buy. That’s a tundra engine as no 570 units around. Truck is work 25k running. Almost nothing now….
Yeah, don't buy a reman engine. There's a place called GTR auto that all the Hemi guys buy nearly new motors from for $4-5k. They offer a reman Tundra 5.7L for $6500 but I would not recommend you buy that. $5k is on the very low end.to find a 5.7L engine in Canada, you're looking at used 300k kms+ engines for that price.
To get a lower mileage 3ur-fe in Canada would be at least $8-10k. What were the details on the engine you got quoted for $5k?
Tundra long block list price from Toyota Canada is $29k.
Your motor didn't knock for a while before it went bad?
If I was looking for a used engine I would include these two sites in my search for an engine.
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I had similar noises from my 2011 Land Cruiser. To me it sounded like the clutch on the A/C was going out because it was the same noise when my A/C clutch went out on my old F150. I bought a new Denso A/C compressor and clutch from Rock Auto and it fixed the occasional bolt in a can rattle. I still had a little valve noise clatter on cold acceleration going up hill: was told it might be the VVT valve having varnished or gunked up. Bought Sea Foam high mileage ran for 300 miles (followed directions) before oil change. I also went to 0-30 oil. Engine runs much quieter, accelerates better, and gets better mileage. I'm going to use Sea Foam before the next oil change too. Engine has 151,000.
This makes sense to me - mine seems to come and go. I thought I had it resolved too a loose skid because it went away after I found and tightened the bolt. But it came back and it seems to come and go - it's been perfect for the last couple of months but I'm sure it'll return again at some point.
2014 w/117k miles
What if I suggested it was the 30W oil and Seafoam had nothing to do with it…….
Yeah, Seafoam scares me - I don't like adding anything to the fuel tank except...well, fuel.
the valve noise went away before the oil change: while doing sea foam treatment. No Sea Foam in fuel it was in the crankcase one ounce per quart for 300 miles. Valve noise started getting less after about 100 miles and continued to subside until oil change at 300 miles of city driving. The bolt in can noise rattle went away and has not come back after A/C compressor and clutch replacement they were done about 1 month before Sea Foam treatment. I'm not an additive fan, but it seems to have helped. The can says it's for VVT and internal tensioners. My noise's started about 123,000 chased the intermittent clanging noise for 20 months. It seemed if I played with the A/C switch it would stop. That's what prompted the A/C work. Techron in the fuel works on the fuel system and some internal carbon deposits. There are lots of moving parts with very small tolerances and a crankcase cleaner that has been around for a long time seemed like a good gamble. May not be the answer to your noises, but it seems to have fixed mine.
bloc
SILVER Star
My concern with seafoam would be hardening or attacking rubber seals and gaskets, personally.
Since my switch to 5w-30 I haven't had tensioner rattle at all. 170k on the truck at this point.
Since my switch to 5w-30 I haven't had tensioner rattle at all. 170k on the truck at this point.
I understand the concern: had my Tacoma transmission serviced where they flushed the system. Started leaking. From what I understand don't go past the 300 mile limit on the cleaning. Tensioner rattle and VVT are different noises and effect engine performance differently. To me tensioner noise is very rhythmic not the occasional rattle bolt in a can noise. We both have lots of miles on our engines if 5-30 worked that's what the forum is all about. Thanks for all the input.
